Oil & Fuel Diesel Oil Change

[gsxr1100]

I agree with you here nor did I ever say use 15w-40 (thicker) in all applications. Since we are talking about tractors a 15w-40 or a 5w-30 would be fine. Or even a 10w-30 would be fine. If you do not have any idea, look in the manual; In there they most likely will have the ones I listed.

Now in my car I would never use a 15w-40 or a 20w-50. I would use a 5w-30, 5w-20 or a 0w-30. I would select some for difference reason based on additives and there passing standards.

So how do you define thicker? A 5w-30 vs 5w-40? Or a 0w-30 vs 20w-50? Again the quality of oil makes a difference here since they can react differently. What is excess wear? 5 ppm of Lead vs 8 ppm of lead?

I do not know what oil in all police departments’ use, but 10 to 1 they are going by price and not performance. I have not talked to many of these people in several years now.

But on the flip side I would not rush and make global statements that thin is in either? Different oils perform differently and some engines will behave differently. I think, in general, that thicker oils in the future will become obsolete. These are based upon what I have seen in the last 10 years.

 

[HGM]

I would define thicker as 10W 30- 10W40 or even 20W50 as it is popular with the older worn out engines. I dont claim to be an expert at oil analysis and have never pulled a test so I couldnt begin to guess what the ppm would be, so you are far ahead of me on that. I go with the rational that in a tight engine the MFG requires thiner oil because of clearance as well as emissions. Again, we are in agreeance here that you need to check the manual for that engine, dont just assume.

 

[gsxr1100]

The good-old assumption. I have not heard that in sometime! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
We all know what that mean..and yes you are correct on it.

I am not that far ahead, if at all. I know that some people flip out when lead, Iron, Aluminum etc goes up 4 ppm for example. Then they state oil is no good blah blah; the problem is they do not look at the big picture. Things go up (wear) for a reason.

I know cars love the 5w-30 and 5w-20 oils now. And some are going to 0w-30. Again I have seen oil thicken (from 30 to 50) and a thicker oil shear (50 to below 40) to a thinner oil. Now when oils do this, it opens up a new world of OXD, TAN, TBN, NOX and more wears etc.

The manual is a good place to start if you have no clue. But most tractors can take about anything (diesel rating wise).

But my manual on my bike states a 5w-30 would be fine when a 10w-30 is still to thin. The 20w-50 is pretty shear stable so it does not thin much.

It is like a cat and mouse game and you need to find out what works the best. My car seems happy with 5w-30.

But then again throw in fuel adds etc, you are adding more of a mess.

 

[victor43]

My B2400 requires a 10W30 motor oil. I have been using Valvoline Durablend for years. This oil has a SL/SJ/CF rating. Easy to get, I buy it at Walmart.

 

[gsxr1100]

That is good but I think you want to direct the reply to the original poster.

For me, I do not buy motoroil at Walmart let alone a dino oil. Nor to a shop unless I have to and I mean have too.

I do not associate Walmart with quality here. Really this oil (Valvoline Durablend) is pretty poor. I hate to say it but if I had to pick that or Rotella I would pick Rotella; and people know how I feel about that dino oil.

Have to see the oil numbers on it. No moly, no boron, and very low ZDDP (very low around 750ppm to 900ppm respectfully), TBN is about 8 and a low flash to boot. Even the calcium is about half of what I use now……Looks like it fits Walmart quit nicely.

 

[cp1969]

Yeah, but....

Apparently all those factors are not really all that important, or Valvoline Durablend would have caused oil related failures galore and the word would be out on it. To the best of my knowledge, it is not.

I'm not sticking up for Walmart and I don't use Valvoline and there is probably no question that other oils are, by one measure or another, "better." But there is also a point at which a product is more than "good enough" to to the job, and I'm sure that's what Valvoline Durablend is.

 

[gsxr1100]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ( Yeah, but....

Apparently all those factors are not really all that important, or Valvoline Durablend would have caused oil related failures galore and the word would be out on it. To the best of my knowledge, it is not. ) )</font>

Not starting a war here but these "factors" do not cause failures; I never started that.

Just saying if people had some understanding of these "factors" along with emulsifiers, dispersants, anti-wear and Extreme Pressure additives, detergents, demulsifier, friction modifiers or friction reducers, rust inhibitor,seal swellers, soot control etc. (man this is getting tired) and others you would see this is makes a good base oil better.

It or the engine will have more wear, shorter life in the engine due to being low, I would watch the TBN and how it drops related to NOX and OXD (varnish) and so one. If you have a high heat engine, I would for sure not use it. It has nothing in the add pkg to help you.

As I have stated before, you get what you pay for. Here is an example. And yes it is important since this is the add pkg in the oil. Another words I would not run this oil very long in an engine since it looks pretty poor. Most people are suck on short drain and this oil looks to fit that duration very nice. I would not go again very long on this oil since it is not a synthetic and its adds pkg looks minimal at best.

 

[cp1969]

That is, for me, simply way--WAY--too much fretting over something that, over a lifetime of experience, has caused me zero problems despite my disregard for the value of any of those numbers for any oil I've ever used. All I've ever done is use the correct weight S or C rated oil per the manufacturer's recommendations. Maybe I've been lucky but I doubt it.

I have had my share of premature engine overhauls and catastrophic failures, but not one of them was related to oil quality. In fact, the only oil-related failures I've ever seen were ones in which the absence of oil, not the quality, caused the problem.

 

[gsxr1100]

I agree that using this oil will work. Then again you can use the worst dinno out there and it will work too. It is called what oil will perform better. Again even Rotella is better then this oil.

Again you get what you pay for.

If you want to see how good your Valvoline Durablend is do a simple test; case in point spend $19 and test the oil and then spend about $4 more per gallon and buy a better oil. Then compare the numbers and 100 to 1, the better oil will give you huge savings in wear.

To close, looking at the un-used numbers on the oil (as I posted above), I would not use this oil in my power washer. It really is cheap oil. I would not pay over $1.00 per qt; and that is on the high side.

 

[VA_Joe]

I have seen many comparisons/tests of dino oil over the years. The most important factor is how often you change the oil vice the brand. You want an oil that will neither break down under high heat conditions nor lose its ability to remove the junk/gunk. Changing the oil regularly guarantees that both of these properties are working in your favor. Most similarly rated (per SAE) oils have similar properties with respect to these factors.

If comparisons are to be made it should be between synthetic and dino. In that case - there is no comparison. Synthetic beats dino hands down - which is why they usually spec longer intervals between changes (though expensive - the stuff retains its properties under harsh conditions).

As far as the numbers on the oil can/bottle of multi-viscosity, the low number reflects the standard viscosity of oil when the engine is cold and the high number is the standard viscosity when the engine is at temperature. The idea is that as the engine warms up - the actual viscosity of the oil remains the same (or close).

Putting a lower or higher viscosity oil than spec'd can cause problems. I do use 20W50 but only in my 20+ year old Ford work truck. Using the manufacturer rated 10W40 causes the engine to smoke (too much oil getting past the rings). I would never do this on a newer, low mileage engine as it could cause problems with the rings, lifters, and bearings (the engines are built tight with the holes in the bearings, lifters, timing chain tensioner and etc. sized to the recommended oil viscosity) - the end result is that the oil would not be getting to the places it needs to get (very bad - I would avoid any service tech that recommended this).

In short - it makes little sense to not use what the manufacturer recommends with respect to viscosity and service ratings (I don't see a cost savings)

Anyways - those are my two cents.

Joe