Diesel (slobber) question

[Richard]

International 1066 though, I wouldn't think that would matter.

Dropping trees with backhoe then dragging them to burn pile with 1066. Leave one machine idle while using the other. I start noticing "bleeding" down exhaust stack on 1066. I think I've finally figured out what people are talking about with slobber.

Someone said it's a temperature thing, restrict flow through radiator. Did that but evidently not enough! Machine is essentially just idling through this process however, when I pull the (full) tree,I do up the RPM's and it blows some smoke out the stack until that clears BUT, the temp is still riding "C".

So this isn't really "work" for the tractor and it slobbers. Got me wondering.... Just to be black/white..... if this was a NEW tractor with factory spec engine operating perfectly...... would it still slobber under certain conditions?

If so, is this (today's) slobber worse because the engine has ??? hours on it? (I bought used so no real idea BUT it does emit blue under the engine out the (breather?)

This artic spell has kept me from pulling any more trees which is fine because I hate the cold AND that would only make the engine MORE cold! Any ideas how I can "work" the engine harder to minimize this when I go back to finish up dropping the trees? (pushing the woods behind house back so any tree that might fall can't possibly hit house)

ZERO signs of slobbering from (JCB) backhoe yet easily discernable black dripping down exhaust of 1066. Same conditions, both doing a lot of idle. Why so evident with one and not the other? (brings back to my 'factory new' engine..... I'm wondering if that's an indication that the JCB/Perkins might be in better overall condition than the International)

 

[big bubba]

wet stacking. This is the accumulation of unburned fuel, soot, and condensed water, which leaks out of the exhaust joints and creates a black, oily, or gummy residue.
(AI)
happens on most diesel engines. personally, i shut off engine if left over 10 min of idling, thinking you're overthinking on the rebuild, you have a great old school tractor(s), regards

 

[oldnslo]

If engine isn’t getting warm I would check to see if thermostat is working since temp gauge should move even idling or at least our tractors from that era did.

 

[Lgim]

I think it is an age of the technology issue rather then an age of the engine, for example your 50-60 year old engine with 50 years wear slobbers. If you had a 50-60 year old identical engine with 0 wear it would slobber in the same conditions as your engine.
If you have a new engine designed in the last year it probably wont slobber in the same conditions, if you had the same new engine with 50 years wear it probably still won't slobber. The new designs just don't slobber as bad.
For your problem now, assuming everything is working as it should, the easiest fix is idle it at a higher rpm, more rpm = more combustion = more heat = less slobber.

 

[rScotty]

I've seen lots of explanations for diesel slobber. Every mechanic has a different idea why, and perhaps ends up chosing whichever explanation fits his own experience the best.

It's not only diesels =- although diesels do make worst black sticky slobber. An old gasser can slobber too., Sometimes an old oil-burning gas engine with shot rings or worn valve guides will slobber if the conditions are right, A vertical exhaust helps the slobber be more obvious because then it can fall like rain. Ugly diesel rain.....

My thought is that slobbering has more to do with water condensing in the exhaust, getting mixed with partly burned fuel, and then being blown out the the exhaust. A vertical exhaust seems to slobber more than a horizontal one....or maybe it is just more noticible. .

If so, thenany engine can slobber give the right humidity + exhaust temperature and especially in a vertical stack. Most engines that do it do so on start up or after idling a long time.

I'd only be concerned if a diesel that is working hard suddenly began to slobber. That's not right.

rScotty