Diesel VW Jetta....opinions?

[MotorSeven]

Wow, thanks guys for the informative responses. What y'all have written here mirrors the general info i got off the web. Most owners since the late 90's have had overall good reliability. I have read several instances of lemon like mechanical issues such as RonL's story. Those do seem to plague the same vehs with many different system failures seemingly unrelated to each other. But i guess if i researched any other car or truck i would find the same % of lemon issues.
It looks like we can park the '05 Chevy crew 5.3L 4x4 most of the time, drive an older TDI Jetta and make the payments off the fuel savings. I have narrowed the search to the 2001-2003 models with around 100K. They average between $10k & 12k. I am going to crunch the actual numbers and post them here later.

RD

 

[RobJ]

Anybody ever wonder why Cummins, Powerstroke and Duramax had to increase displacement to maintain the same horsepower levels. They've got scrubbers on the exhaust system. Bottom line is the they run much hotter, produce less power (cubic inch for cubic inch) and consume much more fuel than their pre clean air act cousins but they are clean as a pin at the tail pipe. They are, however, perpetually choked down.

I thought the Cummins and Duramax are about the same as when introduced. But the Ford has gone down more than up. 7.3, 6.0 and the new smogmotor is just a 6.4. Not a huge up swing. But yeah they don't get the milage like the old ones. Most guys buying new are going gasser again with a $7000 price tag on thepowerstroke and diesel at $.50 more a gallon. Pricey for 2-3 more mpg unless you tow real heavy.

 

[RedRocker]

Most guys buying new are going gasser again with a $7000 price tag on thepowerstroke and diesel at $.50 more a gallon. Pricey for 2-3 more mpg unless you tow real heavy.

That's what I'm thinking, when diesel was cheaper it had some advantage, not so much anymore no more than I tow.

 

[RobJ]

That's what I'm thinking, when diesel was cheaper it had some advantage, not so much anymore no more than I tow.

I'll restate and say "some" guys are going to gas... The ones who can afford both and still like the smell are still driving diesels. Heck I couldn't afford the diesel way back when it was a $5000 option!

 

[RonL]

MotorSeven

If you buy a used VW make sure you do a history of it. If it had no problems you may be getting one of the good ones. Problems usually show up in the beginning. Make sure you get the maintenance records if you expect VWoA to honor (yea right) any remaining warranty. Make sure the oil changes were done on time and the right oil was used (and documented).
Sales of VW's have dropped dramatically. The dealers are hurting for business. If you go to a dealer for service or parts they are going to pounce on you and try and wring as much money out of you as they can. If you can find an independent mechanic to work on your car you will be better off. But make sure you document everything. If you change the oil yourself make sure that you use the "approved" oil (505-01 I believe). You may have a hard time finding the "approved" oil. You may have to buy it at the dealer. Expensive. Parts at the dealer are expensive. That is how they are surviving.
If you search on the web you will find other makes that have had problems, certainly. But not as many as VW. They are at or near the bottom of everyones list. VW only sold 235,000 cars in the US last year. This is a miniscule number compared to the millions other makers sell. And yet there are more people on the web complaining about their VW (Google vw sucks and vw lemon).
I apologize for the long winded response but after two lemons in a row and the horrible, insulting experience with VWoA i feel I need to inform others about VW. You need to go into it with your eyes open.

RonL

 

[MotorSeven]

Thanks Ron, i will take your advise and do a thorough background check.

So here are some #s. It's Miller time, so there may be a mistake or two....ok, maybe three......
Our average yearly mileage is 20,000, the price of diesel has fluctuated from equal to unleaded to 30 cents more, so i am calculating it at equal and using the max highway mpg the truck has ever logged.

20,000 miles divided by 18 mpg = 1,111 gals x $3 a gal = $3,333 a year
20,000 miles divided by 45 mpg = 444 gals x $3 a gal = $1,333 a year
So a $2k savings per year.
$10k financed @ 7% for 4 years is $198 x 12months = $2,376.
Insurance should be around $500 a year which comes to $2,876
It looks like around $75 bucks a month to drive the TDI if we keep the Chevy.
Now if i quit drinking Miller, it would be a yearly savings of......
Hmmmmm........

 

[dmccarty]

Is the Chevy Paid for? Are you keeping it?

The loan calculator I'm using show 239.46 per month on a 10k loan for four years at 7%. Total cost is $11,494.

Fuel, loan, and insurance for four years on the car is $18,826 or $392 per month. That is a lot of gas, 5.7 years of gas.

Later,
Dan

 

[MotorSeven]

Yep, Dan your right, i clicked on 5 years instead of 4, my mistake. Ummm, well, i'd like to keep the truck. but keeping it to pull a trailer 3-4 times a year doesn't make alot of sense. Logically, the truck should go & get replaced with something way older, & stouter(2500-3500, C20-30).

RD

 

[IH3444]

" That's what I'm thinking, when diesel was cheaper it had some advantage, not so much anymore no more than I tow."

This is what me, and some buddies are saying now. No real advantage to diesels unless towing heavy load constantly.

Just get a truck with a gas engine, burning regular....5, or 6 speed manual, with high rear axle ratio. Hit a big hill, just keep dropping down in gearing. Top gear should be 1 to 1, or and overdrive gear.

This 73 Chevy has 3/4 ton 7 spring rear suspension installed, manual trans, and a rear axle ratio of 2.73, with taller tires to give a calculated ratio of 2.51. It gets lightly loaded on the highway 21 mpg with a 350 c.i. V8, Quadrajet 4BBL carburator, torquer intake manifold gaskets, and dual full flow exhaust system. Runs on regular pump gas. Rear lowered 3.5" to aid in loading. Synthetic oil, greas used, turns 1500-1800 rpm mostly at highway speeds of around 55mph.

 

[MotorSeven]

IH, i have a '72 250-6 three on the tree work truck, but it is only a 1/2 ton. A '68 short step that i am building for "cruizin", so it won't even geta trailer hitch. Since i am partial to the '67-72 Chevys, a '71 or '72 C-30 dually flatbed would be "perfect" for the farm. I've been keeping an eye out, and sooner or later i'll come across one at the right price. When that happens, the '05 will most likely have to go. It's amazing how simple and functional those old truck are.
RD