Differential Lock Pedal

[skipmarcy]

If I become stuck, I will wait till my wheels stop spinning, push down the differential lever with my heal and hold it there as I press on my hst pedal to move the tractor out of trouble. I can feel with my heal as it engages. Once out of trouble, I stop the tractor and then release my heal off the differential lever. I usually use my heal then to nudge the lever up to make sure it's disengaged.:thumbsup: This is easily done with the hst pedals being on the right and the differential lever on the left. Where is the differential lever for you guys with gear tractors with the clutch on the left?

On my 4110 gear the diff lock pedal is at my right heel - if you need to give it throttle while engaged you have to use the hand throttle, can't reach the "gas" pedal with your foot on the diff pedal too. My PTO shifter is on my left side at my heel area.

 

[buck12]

If I become stuck, I will wait till my wheels stop spinning, push down the differential lever with my heel and hold it there as I press on my hst pedal to move the tractor out of trouble. I can feel with my heel as it engages. Once out of trouble, I stop the tractor and then release my heel off the differential lever. I usually use my heel then to nudge the lever up to make sure it's disengaged.:thumbsup: This is easily done with the hst pedals being on the right and the differential lever on the left. Where is the differential lever for you guys with gear tractors with the clutch on the left?

On a gear 2615 the df lock is operated with the heal of the right foot. A buddy has a 2816 gear and it is setup the same way.

 

[buck12]

You are correct, but we recommend that the driver let the wheels stop spinning, then press the diff pedal and hold it as they let the clutch out (or press the forward pedal on an HST), holding it down until it engages. We are trying to avoid a high speed spin type of engagement.

I tried the tapping method mentioned in this thread and had no success. The method you have described is what I have always done. Sometimes it engages almost instantly and sometimes the rear tire will make several revolutions before the df lock engages.

 

[Rickstir]

Back to square one for this novice. Why exactly do you want to lock the differencial? All I do with my 4110 is till, mow and dig post holes.

 

[RedRock]

Back to square one for this novice. Why exactly do you want to lock the differencial? All I do with my 4110 is till, mow and dig post holes.

Only when you need the extra traction and you are going in a straight line. For example your pulling, plowing, whatever and whatever causes your 1 rear tire to spin, you will get better traction by engaging the differential lock so that both rears are pulling. Makes turning pretty difficult though.

 

[buck12]

I use my df lock most with the FEL. When digging hard pack I need front wheel assist and df lock and somtimes it still is not enough.

 

[skipmarcy]

Back to square one for this novice. Why exactly do you want to lock the differencial? All I do with my 4110 is till, mow and dig post holes.

You're not using that 4110 like it wants to be !! I don't need my diff lock either for those chores you mention. Get off in the woods and get where your traction tire (or tires if in 4wd) loose traction and see what it takes to keep moving. Or in some good slippery mud or snow, crossing a ditch at an angle or crossing a log or rocks etc. where your traction tire(s) leave the ground - that diff lock will keep you going most the time. I'll bet I have to use my lock at least once every 10 - 20 hours or so. And everyone says don't engage it at higher engine rpms - that doesn't matter at all, it's the ground speed you're moving at that matters most to that differential. 99% of the times I've had to engage it in the 8 years and 1900 hours was at operating rpms - anywhere from 1500 - 2600 but my ground speed/gear was low and I haven't had a bit of problem with my rear diff or the lock system - it still works just fine every time.

 

[POC]

Now (for a few years actually) my diff lock is not engaging, even when I stand on the lever. It just goes up and down slowly as I let the rear wheels turn. I really feel, especially with the number of times I've seen it discussed here, that this is an engineering problem and should be fixed once and for all, or continued to be fixed, for free.

 

[madmax12]

Now (for a few years actually) my diff lock is not engaging, even when I stand on the lever. It just goes up and down slowly as I let the rear wheels turn. I really feel, especially with the number of times I've seen it discussed here, that this is an engineering problem and should be fixed once and for all, or continued to be fixed, for free.

I just got my tractor recently, and It's my first, so I really know little about them. I hope I never have to fix my DL . However, all the descriptions above explaining how it works sounds very Flintstoneish (think old cartoons)... Could it really be that hard to fix a lever with a spring? I hope I never have to find out the hard way.

 

[madmax12]

I use my df lock most with the FEL. When digging hard pack I need front wheel assist and df lock and somtimes it still is not enough.

I got a light duty (snowbear, winch lift, manual angle) plow for my grandcherokee several years ago. I was talking to an old timer (he's since graduated from the physical realm) about the really aggressive tires I was gonna get.

He said son, if u know how to plow correctly (he knew I had never plowed before...ever), your worn out all seasons are all u want. What??? He said, if the jeep loses traction, u r either plowing wrong or planning where to plow the snow to wrong. If u set it up to not lose traction, you'll break your plow, your jeep, or both.

You're better off breaking traction... It's a lot cheaper.

He was pretty smart. I've been using the same worn out all seasons for years. It is cheaper.