Diggit EM15 notes, mods, etc.

[boinger]

I'm a new EM15 owner, and while I've distilled a lot of excellent info from @dfkrug 's epic thread, I wanted to just publish a pile of info specific to the Diggit EM15s.

OEM is LeKing (Link: Mini Excavator Mfrs and Suppliers-Shandong LeKing Machinery) and OEM model is "Mini Excavator-KV13Plus" (Link: Mini Excavator-KV13Plus-Shandong LeKing Machinery)

Machine specs (some of which are listed differently in two places, so I'll include both), in case that page goes away:

Dimensions:
Wheelbase	923mm or 930mm
Bucket Capacity	0.03m³
Track Length	1250mm
Minimum ground clearance	385mm
Chassis width	1100mm
Maximum digging radius	2900mm or 3084mm
Track width	180mm
Maximum excavation depth	1735mm
Maximum digging height	2545mm
Gyration radius	1635mm
Shipping/delivery length	2400mm
Maximum unloading height	1708mm
Full vehicle height	2230mm
Other info:
Total weight	1000kg or 1100kg (based on bill of lading info, I think 1100kg is correct)
Rated power	7.0kw/13.5hp
Engine	Koop 192 (diesel) or Briggs & Stratton 420cc (petrol) or [unlisted] non-B&S 420cc (petrol)

Other specs/notes:

Tracks	180 x 73K x 41
Hydraulic fittings	(mostly) metric 24D-Cone
Switches	Carling L-Series spec
Switch adapters (to a more standard size, i.e. all the Nilight-brand switches on Amazon)	Best: OTR Switch Guys V-Series Rocker Switch Adapter (narrow side bezel to allow side-by-side switches without modification) Okay: METRA - Carling Switch Adapter @ Amazon.com (if you have a belt sander, you can shave down the side bezels to make them work...or if you don't need to add enough switches that you care about side-by-side issues)
Grease tools for those needle greaser ports (until I swap them out for zerks)	Link: https://amzn.to/3x2wgfz

Mods I've made so far (I'll post pics in separate posts to this thread):

Add-on fuse box
- Fuse box itself	Amazon link (note the integrated relays to simplify everything)
- Mounting plate	Amazon link (drilled 4 holes to match the hinges on the left door, bent the plate a bit to both direct some air and avoid the battery cut-off switch, mounted using the door hinge bolts/nuts)
- hook-up cables	Amazon link
- Other stuff for wiring things in	Wire: red: Amazon link & black: Amazon link Terminals: spades: Amazon link & rings: Amazon link
Cooling fan
- 10" fan (zip-tied to the inside of the left "door")	Amazon link
- switch (needs switch adapter, above)	Amazon link
Hourmeter	Amazon link (I prefer mechanical, non-resettable)
Voltmeter + USB ports (needs switch adapter, above)	Amazon link
Oil drain extension	Amazon link
Traction tape	Amazon link (added on the edge of the platform and "step")

I'll add to this as I do more work on it. For example, I currently have the unbranded 420cc gas engine -- I have a Koop 192f on the way from the manufacturer and I'll document swapping that out.

 

[boinger]

Fuse box (with the cover off) mounted to the stainless plate using pop rivets:

Note the jumper on circuit 4 -- this is because I don't want the voltmeter / USB ports to be switchable (other than the ignition, which controls the whole fuse box via the ACC post [bottom right])

Cooling fan (radiator fan):

Connected to circuit 1 on the fuse box, switch positioned in the left side pilot controls switch panel. Luckily, this fan comes arranged as a puller, so it's just a matter of crimping on terminals and zip-tieing it in -- no flipping the fan over (not that it's a huge deal to do so).

Fan viewed from the outside:

Hourmeter:

Just popped off the panel, drilled a couple pilot holes, used a coping saw to cut it out (jigsaw was too violent for such a flimsy piece of plastic) and then used a rasp to refine the hole. Wired to an unused circuit that I confirmed was ignition-energized (the one labeled [somewhat ironically] "cooling fan" according to my translation app on my phone).

Traction tape:

I have a roll of this that I bought to do the same treatment to my tractor -- rolling it over the edge is key.

 

[D'oh]

I like the Diggit product, I would like to try the Pilot Joysticks, but so used to leaning forward now.

I used a Tach/Hour Meter on my units. Not that RPM is that important but nice to know, easy to install.

 

[dfkrug]

2 thumbs up on the hour meter installation. I also like the electronic tach/hour meters. I have used them before on 2-stroke equipment. The mechanical hour meters do not seem to be waterproof, so be careful about washing.

Someone needs to ask Leking directly about the pilot valve RV spec and test port location.

 

[newbury]

Great writeup!

 

[dkostal]

I have a diggit as well and really appreciate all the info and stats you put one here along with the work you completed so far. I am trying to find a Hydraulic thumb that will fit our excavators. Have you looked into that and if so, do you have any leads? Thank you

 

[dfkrug]

I am trying to find a Hydraulic thumb that will fit our excavators.

If your machine has the pivot brackets on the dipper, they are designed for the mechanical thumb. Unfortunately, an hydraulic thumb will not work well with those pivots.

To do it properly, you need to remove those pivots and weld new ones on the dipper so the lower one is closer to the end of the dipper, and the upper one allows the hyd cylinder the proper stroke so that it retracts out of the way.

 

[dkostal]

Thank you very much for the info. I appreciate it.

 

[dfkrug]

I am trying to find a Hydraulic thumb that will fit our excavators.

Here is the write-up I did, if you want some ideas.

making an hydraulic thumb for my new mini-excavator

I recently imported a new 1-ton mini-X from China, and it needs an hydraulic thumb. It came with a mechanical thumb installed, but it is flimsy and won't do at all. I made an hydraulic thumb for my backhoe years ago, and it is indispensable. So, over the next several days, I will post pix and...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[bsekf]

I am looking at a Diggit EM15 with 20 hours and one bucket. Haven't seen the machine in person yet. I think I have this information correct. Machine is 43 inches wide, rather than 36 so it should be a little more stable. It has a bigger hyd pump than most 1 ton machines, so it should be a little more powerful. After market hyd thumb will not work without fabrication. How well does the manual thumb work? Are service manuals available? Will I find a rake? a ripper? a wider "toothless" bucket, about 24-30 inch? (to clean ditches) for it? Does $8000 sound about right?

 

[dfkrug]

I am looking at a Diggit EM15 with 20 hours and one bucket. Haven't seen the machine in person yet. I think I have this information correct. Machine is 43 inches wide, rather than 36 so it should be a little more stable. It has a bigger hyd pump than most 1 ton machines, so it should be a little more powerful. After market hyd thumb will not work without fabrication. How well does the manual thumb work? Are service manuals available? Will I find a rake? a ripper? a wider "toothless" bucket, about 24-30 inch? (to clean ditches) for it? Does $8000 sound about right?

You will find it cheaper at the auctions. It is wider and longer than the usual 1-ton-ish units. Fits all the same implements.

Last Saturday's local auction saw even some of the similar AGT H15 machines with pilot controls go for only $2800 final bid. About $3500 total cost.

 

[bsekf]

Will the mechanical thumbs work if you are just picking up brush and poles? How about service manuals?

 

[dfkrug]

Will the mechanical thumbs work if you are just picking up brush and poles? How about service manuals?

A mechanical thumb does work. I have installed and used the one that is sold with these units. Sure beats no thumb at all. When not it use, can remove it or pin it up to make digging easier.

Service manuals? Shirley, you jest.

 

[westcoastbuilder]

Glad I found this thread, very good information on the EM15. I'm interested in hearing how owners of the EM15 find the foot pedals. Personally I have really struggled with the side ways foot pedals especially for the blade. I have a hard time controlling blade height when back blading. I find the foot pedal is not very granular and I was constantly having to stop to adjust the height. I opted to remove the foot pedal and turn it into a handle. I added a 3d printed grip and am much happier with this setup. Interested in hearing others experiences with the side ways foot pedals. Thanks.

 

[westcoastbuilder]

I'm a new EM15 owner, and while I've distilled a lot of excellent info from @dfkrug 's epic thread, I wanted to just publish a pile of info specific to the Diggit EM15s.

OEM is LeKing (Link: Mini Excavator Mfrs and Suppliers-Shandong LeKing Machinery) and OEM model is "Mini Excavator-KV13Plus" (Link: Mini Excavator-KV13Plus-Shandong LeKing Machinery)

Machine specs (some of which are listed differently in two places, so I'll include both), in case that page goes away:

Dimensions:
Wheelbase	923mm or 930mm
Bucket Capacity	0.03m³
Track Length	1250mm
Minimum ground clearance	385mm
Chassis width	1100mm
Maximum digging radius	2900mm or 3084mm
Track width	180mm
Maximum excavation depth	1735mm
Maximum digging height	2545mm
Gyration radius	1635mm
Shipping/delivery length	2400mm
Maximum unloading height	1708mm
Full vehicle height	2230mm
Other info:
Total weight	1000kg or 1100kg (based on bill of lading info, I think 1100kg is correct)
Rated power	7.0kw/13.5hp
Engine	Koop 192 (diesel) or Briggs & Stratton 420cc (petrol) or [unlisted] non-B&S 420cc (petrol)

Other specs/notes:

Tracks	180 x 73K x 41
Hydraulic fittings	(mostly) metric 24D-Cone
Switches	Carling L-Series spec
Switch adapters (to a more standard size, i.e. all the Nilight-brand switches on Amazon)	Best: OTR Switch Guys V-Series Rocker Switch Adapter (narrow side bezel to allow side-by-side switches without modification) Okay: METRA - Carling Switch Adapter @ Amazon.com (if you have a belt sander, you can shave down the side bezels to make them work...or if you don't need to add enough switches that you care about side-by-side issues)
Grease tools for those needle greaser ports (until I swap them out for zerks)	Link: https://amzn.to/3x2wgfz

Mods I've made so far (I'll post pics in separate posts to this thread):

Add-on fuse box
- Fuse box itself	Amazon link (note the integrated relays to simplify everything)
- Mounting plate	Amazon link (drilled 4 holes to match the hinges on the left door, bent the plate a bit to both direct some air and avoid the battery cut-off switch, mounted using the door hinge bolts/nuts)
- hook-up cables	Amazon link
- Other stuff for wiring things in	Wire: red: Amazon link & black: Amazon link Terminals: spades: Amazon link & rings: Amazon link
Cooling fan
- 10" fan (zip-tied to the inside of the left "door")	Amazon link
- switch (needs switch adapter, above)	Amazon link
Hourmeter	Amazon link (I prefer mechanical, non-resettable)
Voltmeter + USB ports (needs switch adapter, above)	Amazon link
Oil drain extension	Amazon link
Traction tape	Amazon link (added on the edge of the platform and "step")

I'll add to this as I do more work on it. For example, I currently have the unbranded 420cc gas engine -- I have a Koop 192f on the way from the manufacturer and I'll document swapping that out.

Thanks for this great info, especially the fuse box, that looks like a nice simple mod and easy to integrate.

 

[dfkrug]

I find the foot pedal is not very granular and I was constantly having to stop to adjust the height. I opted to remove the foot pedal and turn it into a handle. I added a 3d printed grip and am much happier with this setup.

Good modification.

I have operated the EM15, but not for very long. Like you, I did not like the foot control for the blade. I very much prefer my hand lever control on my Rhino, but I attributed some of that to being used to it.

 

[Will Wagner]

Anyone know where I can get a new one? After 58 hours the red wirte just broke

 

[dfkrug]

Anyone know where I can get a new one?

Pretty much any 3-wire regulator/rectifier for 1-cylinder Honda-clone engines will work. Or you can just order the Briggs part.

I like to remove them from the engine and mount them to the firewall to reduce the vibration they experience. Also helps with heat dissipation.

 

[Will Wagner]

Pretty much any 3-wire regulator/rectifier for 1-cylinder Honda-clone engines will work. Or you can just order the Briggs part.

I like to remove them from the engine and mount them to the firewall to reduce the vibration they experience. Also helps with heat dissipation.

Thanks

 

[Minix15]

Fuse box (with the cover off) mounted to the stainless plate using pop rivets:
View attachment 874213
Note the jumper on circuit 4 -- this is because I don't want the voltmeter / USB ports to be switchable (other than the ignition, which controls the whole fuse box via the ACC post [bottom right])

Cooling fan (radiator fan):
View attachment 874216Connected to circuit 1 on the fuse box, switch positioned in the left side pilot controls switch panel. Luckily, this fan comes arranged as a puller, so it's just a matter of crimping on terminals and zip-tieing it in -- no flipping the fan over (not that it's a huge deal to do so).

Fan viewed from the outside:
View attachment 874218

Hourmeter:
View attachment 874219Just popped off the panel, drilled a couple pilot holes, used a coping saw to cut it out (jigsaw was too violent for such a flimsy piece of plastic) and then used a rasp to refine the hole. Wired to an unused circuit that I confirmed was ignition-energized (the one labeled [somewhat ironically] "cooling fan" according to my translation app on my phone).

Traction tape:
View attachment 874221
I have a roll of this that I bought to do the same treatment to my tractor -- rolling it over the edge is key.

I had a bad starter. After repalcing it, nothing will operate. Charges the battery and still nothing. Pretty sure it is the wiring all going through the starter solenoid. Did you bypass the wires in the starter solenoid and hook them up to the fuse box? Trying to determine how to sole this issue so I can run my machine. Thank you