Disc harrow tracks to one side

[2dawoodz]

I had to replace a cracked outside disc on the left side of a disc harrow and now the harrow tracks to the right side also causing the 3 point hitch stabilizer to rub the inside of the right tire. I believe this is because the new disc is slightly taller (larger in diameter) than the other discs due to wear so the new disc is cutting deeper. Can the 3 point hitch stabilizers be adjusted to correct the alignment? Other suggestions?

 

[jeff9366]

The new, larger diameter disc is acting like the rudder on a boat.

I assume your disc harrow is a secondary tillage tandem disc harrow, not a primary tillage, heavy offset disc harrow.

1) Adjust Three-Point-Hitch Top Link so less weight is on set of discs containing new, larger disc, more on the second set of discs with all old/uniform diameters. Extending Top Link will put more weight on the rear set. Shortening Top Link will put more weight on the front set.

2) Adjust disc gangs to less aggressive settings; i.e.: gangs more parallel to one another, less "V" configuration. This can be a struggle if disc harrow frame and bolts/nuts are rusted. Perhaps adjusting just the gang containing new, larger diameter disc one increment will correct tracking. Gangs need to be in approximately symmetrical settings so dirt is moved IN and OUT equally.

You do not specify your tractor. Most stabilizers are adjustable and, yes, that will help, but try adjusting Top Link and gang angles first. A properly adjusted tandem disc harrow should follow tractor with stabilizers adjusted "neutral".

Check axle nuts to be sure they are TIGHT so the discs on one or both gangs are not wobbling around when pulled.

Add your location and tractor, please.

 

[2dawoodz]

The new, larger diameter disc is acting like the rudder on a boat.

I assume your disc harrow is a secondary tillage tandem disc harrow, not a primary tillage, heavy offset disc harrow.

Yes the disc harrow (leinbach) is a secondary tillage. 16 discs total. 4 discs per row.

1) Adjust Three-Point-Hitch Top Link so less weight is on set of discs containing new, larger disc, more on the second set of discs with all old/uniform diameters. Extending Top Link will put more weight on the rear set. Shortening Top Link will put more weight on the front set.

The new disc is on the outside of the left front row. So I should extend the top link to place more weight on the rear set?

2) Adjust disc gangs to less aggressive settings; i.e.: gangs more parallel to one another, less "V" configuration. This can be a struggle if disc harrow frame and bolts/nuts are rusted. Perhaps adjusting just the gang containing new, larger diameter disc one increment will correct tracking. Gangs need to be in approximately symmetrical settings so dirt is moved IN and OUT equally.

The gangs are currently adjusted just short of parallel. I am not following how to adjust just the front left gang since the adjustment bar is bolted to all 4 gangs.

You do not specify your tractor. Most stabilizers are adjustable and, yes, that will help, but try adjusting Top Link and gang angles first. A properly adjusted tandem disc harrow should follow tractor with stabilizers adjusted "neutral".

Check axle nuts to be sure they are TIGHT so the discs on one or both gangs are not wobbling around when pulled.

Add your location and tractor, please.

Blythewood, SC / Ford New Holland 1920

Thanks for your help Jeff!

 

[jeff9366]

1) Yes. Extend the Top Link so more weight is on the rear set, less on the front set with the larger diameter disc.

2) Usually the two gangs can be adjusted individually. But not on a Leinbach....... (?)

3) NEW IDEA: Adjust harrow side-to-side with Lifting Rod on right side of Three-Point-Hitch. (Lifting rod on the left side is non-adjustable.)

On my Kubota Lifting Rod is threaded and adjusted by turning it. (First take weight off the Lifting Rod by moving 3-Pt. up/down.)

Adjust rod longer, which will push right side of harrow down, and reduce pressure on left side of harrow where new, larger diameter disc resides. DO NOT FORCE THE LIFTING ROD, just moderate down pressure.

Make this adjustment AFTER extending Top Link.

Let me know if this resolves the problem. I like feedback.

 

[jeff9366]

Is your Leinbach an angle-iron disc harrow or a heavier box-frame disc harrow?

Is there a model number?

If a box-frame, do harrow gangs adjust via CLAMPS like my Howse, pictured below?



LINK TO LEINBACH HARROWS:

http://orders.leinbachs.com/cart/ma...ndex&cPath=5&zenid=imftmu8hnpd729583gf9m1ggq5

 

[Deerherd]

The correct thing to do would be to buy another disc for the opposite side and keep your adjustments fairly neutral. Trying to compensate with adjustments will make for excess strain on the implement and tractor and an uneven depth and track.

 

[2dawoodz]

Is your Leinbach an angle-iron disc harrow or a heavier box-frame disc harrow?

Is there a model number?

If a box-frame, do harrow gangs adjust via CLAMPS like my Howse, pictured below?



LINK TO LEINBACH HARROWS:

Harrow

Box frame. I have not been able to find a model number but looks alot like this one..Model B245 Disc Harrow Disc Harrow [16-18 and 20-18] : Leinbach Machinery, Implements and attachments for agriculture and landscaping

 

[Gary Fowler]

Jeff in post #4 has the right idea in his third option. Adjust the side to side elevation using the adjustable linkage on the lift arm till the disc runs true. Adjusting the top link will only make front or rear cut more and will end up with either a hump in the middle or a swale because the gangs aren't displacing the same amount of dirt.
Deerherd also has a good solution to just put on a new blade on the opposite side which is likely the best solution for long term. Jeff's solution might get you by till you can install another blade though.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I had to replace a cracked outside disc on the left side of a disc harrow and now the harrow tracks to the right side also causing the 3 point hitch stabilizer to rub the inside of the right tire. I believe this is because the new disc is slightly taller (larger in diameter) than the other discs due to wear so the new disc is cutting deeper. Can the 3 point hitch stabilizers be adjusted to correct the alignment? Other suggestions?

Your stabilizers shouldn't be so loose that it can pull to one side enough to rub the tire. Tighten up the opposite side to alleviate this condition. Both sides should be tight enough so that the arms cant move enough to rub the tire. Sometimes this will not let you remove the lift arms from the pins when unhooking, an unavoidable situation, which is why I like the pin adjustable stabilizer rather than the turnbuckle type.

 

[2dawoodz]

The correct thing to do would be to buy another disc for the opposite side and keep your adjustments fairly neutral. Trying to compensate with adjustments will make for excess strain on the implement and tractor and an uneven depth and track.

Deerherd, this was the first thing I thought about doing but struggled with holding the round axle in order to remove the nut. There is a large square (4-5") plate welded to the end of the round axle which is supposed to provide a means to prevent the axle from turning while loosing/tightening the axle nut but I have been unable to secure the plate using a large pipe wrench.

 

[jeff9366]

Box frame. I have not been able to find a model number but looks alot like this one..Model B245 Disc Harrow Disc Harrow [16-18 and 20-18] : Leinbach Machinery, Implements and attachments for agriculture and landscaping

The B245 adjusts the same way as my Howse, and most other Disc Harrows.

Loosen center nut, then remove center SET bolt. (Howse requires 15/16" wrench)

Loosen nuts on bolts on right and left, these are CLAMP bolts.

Elevate Harrow slightly to take weight off gangs.

Grab the ends of the gangs and jiggle gangs around until you can move gangs so they line up on a new CENTER hole. You will need to lube frame. Some T-B-N posters use a farm jack to force movement, on old, corroded disc harrows. (My gangs move reluctantly by hand.)

(If the gang hangers or suspended discs get in the way, you may have to loosen hanger nuts and move suspended discs one way or another. Howse requires 3/4" wrench.)

Replace center bolt, replace center nut. Tighten all three nuts.

The "straighter" the gangs are the deeper the discs will cut.

The greater the "V"s the more dirt will be displaced and greater mixing will occur.

The greater the "V"s the more tractor pulling power is required.





"Deerherd" is right: The "cure" is a second new disc on the opposite side, to balance the first new disc.
(Wish I had thought of that.)

 

[Gary Fowler]

Deerherd, this was the first thing I thought about doing but struggled with holding the round axle in order to remove the nut. There is a large square (4-5") plate welded to the end of the round axle which is supposed to provide a means to prevent the axle from turning while loosing/tightening the axle nut but I have been unable to secure the plate using a large pipe wrench.

Do you have an impact gun? If not try a hammer to the wrench to impact it

 

[2dawoodz]

Well, I replaced the outside disc on the other front gang so that now there is a new disc on the outside of each front gang but the harrow still tracks to the right. This is not my equipment and the owner has less experience than I do. One thing I noticed is the right lift arm is bent slighting inward toward the center of the tractor. I am thinking this may be the culprit. Thoughts/ideas?

 

[Deerherd]

Make sure it's level side to side first if that doesn't work then try raising the right side or lowering the left, depending on what side your adjustment is on. Sometimes you can compensate for slight bends that way. Much more we are going to need pictures.