Discouraged by the work involved changing implements

   / Discouraged by the work involved changing implements #31  
I wonder if occasionally soaking the PTO shaft locking rings and buttons (not the u-joints) in diesel fuel or other mild solvent, then a little fresh oil after getting the gunk out, would make them easier to use. They shouldn't be that tough to move.

Yup, it's called "maintenance".

When I park an implement that I don't plan to use again that day, I pull the PTO shaft apart and hang the tractor half on a peg on the wall. This keeps the sliding joint lubed (or reminds me to grease it if it needs it) and keeps the U-joint from hanging in the dirt or me whacking a shin on it.

I also hit the latch mechanism, be it pin or collar, with a shot of PB Blaster whenever it feels a little stiff or I just happen to think of it.
 
   / Discouraged by the work involved changing implements #32  
Something to try on the PTO shaft: hook up the implement as usual, the lower links first then the top link. Then get one of those cheap ratchet straps (the kind with the cam buckle not a ratchet) and use it to sling the PTO shaft from the top link. They are easy to adjust up and down and will hold the PTO shaft at the right height, so all you have to do is work the lock mechanism and slide it on. Not having to support the shaft while doing those other tasks will make it easier. Another thing that will be helpful is to remove the PTO shield on the tractor. It'll give you a lot more working room.

Another tip, suspend your post hole digger by a sling from something above, either a heavy tree branch, a beam in your barn, etc. If you do it right you'll be able to effortlessly get it hooked up.
 
   / Discouraged by the work involved changing implements #33  
I guess I'm the oddball here. I have never quite seen the point of a "quick hitch" as it involves significant expenditure and much modification (standardizing pin distances) to solve a "problem" that in my mind just doesn't exist.
I'm with you. Though I'm now 72, and a couple of years ago I decided to make it easier by building dollies for most of my implements. Not only makes it easier to hook things up, but makes them fit better in the shed as the collection seems to grow even though the shed doesn't.

As long as I remember to grease the PTO shafts occasionally I've never had a problem there. I have both push button and collar types.
Me neither, as long as I put on a bit of grease every three or four years.

Of course, I'm also an unreconstructed Luddite and my tractor doesn't have power steering, a cab, air conditioning, cup holders or an automatic transmission.
Guess that makes me a wimp - mine does have power steering. :)

Terry
 
   / Discouraged by the work involved changing implements #34  
I wonder if occasionally soaking the PTO shaft locking rings and buttons (not the u-joints) in diesel fuel or other mild solvent, then a little fresh oil after getting the gunk out, would make them easier to use. They shouldn't be that tough to move.

I spray them with Fluid Film to keep 'em lubricated and rust free. Works quite well. I also spray the tractor's PTO stub shaft with Fluid Film for the same reasons.
 
   / Discouraged by the work involved changing implements #35  
I'am almost 55 ,6'1" 250 LB.S. Aslike most here I can relate to swiching implements in hot Fla heat and humidity. The attachmemt that gives me most trouble is my bushhog. What I do is back up square to attachment Iam hooking up to. I use a big crowbar w/gloves to line things up. I keep my pins greased to make bottom arms slide in easier. As for the pto shaft if it gives me trouble aliening I hold it up w bungie cord or rope. Also sometimes one of my sons will be over and I ask him/them to help me before they raid the refrigerator !
 
   / Discouraged by the work involved changing implements #36  
Something to try on the PTO shaft: hook up the implement as usual, the lower links first then the top link. Then get one of those cheap ratchet straps (the kind with the cam buckle not a ratchet) and use it to sling the PTO shaft from the top link. They are easy to adjust up and down and will hold the PTO shaft at the right height, so all you have to do is work the lock mechanism and slide it on. Not having to support the shaft while doing those other tasks will make it easier. Another thing that will be helpful is to remove the PTO shield on the tractor. It'll give you a lot more working room.

I do the same thing but I use a bungee strap. That takes most of the weight of the PTO drive shaft.
Another thing that works is raising the implement so the drive shaft is inline with the tractor's stub shaft.

BTW, I suggest you all consider greasing the PTO drive shaft annually (at least).

Also, for those of you with Woods Bush Bull cutters and a QH. There is a section in the Bush Bull manual to reconfigure the cutter's 3PH frame for QH compatibility. Works good, too!
 
   / Discouraged by the work involved changing implements #37  
As another member of the 'geezer' crowd I do PTO opposite the 'normal' method.

I back up to where the implement is just in front of the lower 3 pt arms. Next I get off the tractor (motor off) then the first thing I do is attach the PTO shaft. This is significantly easier to do when the hydraulic lines and 3 pt arms/link) are out of the way.

Next I get in the tractor and slowly close the distance between it and the attachment. Now attach the top link either via a hydraulic top cylinder or the factory link. Then align and attach the 3pt with the bottom pins. Bobcat, Kioti (and other Brands?) have length adjustable/width lower arms. That's what makes this process possible

I too use a bungee cord or length of baling wire to support the shaft while aligning it.
 
   / Discouraged by the work involved changing implements #38  
I don't have a problem with the 3 point hook up, even though it can be a pain sometimes if I don't get tractor lined up well. My ***** is the darned PTO couplings like I have on my bushhog and tiller. Going on isn't a problem as you have to push the collar forward while pulling on the shaft, but TAKING it off. How are you supposed to push the collar forward while pulling back on the shaft. It usually takes two people to do this and the darned springs on the collar must be built strong enough to hold up a Peterbuilt. It takes all I can muster just to push back on the collar. I much prefer the pin type that you push or the collar type that twist.
And another issue with my collar type. The collar will push forward AND pull back and I always forget which way to move it especially when it wont come off easily from pushing then I start pulling and it still sticks. DARN, DARN, DARN IT. I really hate those things.

Yes!!!!! Exactly. I grew up with the type that have the button, and those are ok. These push-pull collars are a PITA! When they find something that works (like the push button type), why can't they leave it alone?
 
   / Discouraged by the work involved changing implements #39  
Guess that makes me a wimp - mine does have power steering.

I must admit, when I'm doing loader work, I've often wished for power steering. Price of a kit is about double what I'd be willing to pay tho.

A full synchro trans would be nice too. Don't care for the HST, but synchros would be nice.
 
   / Discouraged by the work involved changing implements #40  
The post hole digger is the one that kills me. I hang it from a tree limb now by the middle of the boom and it seems to help allot.
 

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