Disk Size for a Kubota MX5100?

[Skeeter Madness]

What's the biggest disk my tractor will pull without over-working it? Also, will this tractor pull a 4 row planter? Appreciate any help/advice.

 

[jeff9366]

There are multiple types of Disc Harrows.

For primary tillage, in place of a plow, there are towed Offset Disc Harrows. (infrequently, mounted Offset Disc Harrows.)

For secondary tillage there are towed and mounted Tandem Disc Harrows. Some Tandem Disc
Harrows are configured for cutting, some for smoothing.

What is your primary use for the Disc Harrow?

What type of soil do you have?

How deep do you need to work the soil?

Regardless, you will need a minimum of 5-horsepower per foot of Disc Harrow width plus four wheel drive for mounted Disc Harrows; 6 to 7-horsepower per foot of Disc Harrow width for towed Disc Harrows, plus four wheel drive.


DISC HARROW SELECTION LINK:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/296476-considerations-disc-harrow-selection-18-a.html

 

[Skeeter Madness]

Great info! I intend to prepare ground for planting. The ground is more clay and has been tilled in the past. Guess i need to do a lot of research to learn more. Thanks for link...the info was very informative. I'm assuming I'll be OK pulling a 8' disk harrow as my tractor has 52hp and I do have 4X4. I do have a down side in that I have R4 tires. I would prefer a pull type disk, but wasn't sure if I would be asking too much from my tractor.

 

[jeff9366]

A towed disc will give slightly better ground penetration because all the implement weight is on the discs, none is supported on the tractor three point hitch. However, it takes a lot of room to turn a towed disc 180 degrees and you may need transport wheels to move a towed disc over the road from field to field. Turning and transport are the reasons three point hitch mounted disc harrows outsell towed disc harrows by a wide margin.

To a certain extent you can adjust draft force by adjusting gang angles. More angle, more resistance. Less angle, less resistance.

You probably want a Tandem Disc Harrow not an Offset Disc Harrow.

You should be fine with R4's so long as the field is not muddy.

If you want to chop and bury crop residue get notched discs at least on the front section.

If your soil is rocky you will want thicker discs, especially if you decide on notched discs.

You will probably want 20" diameter "wheels" but possibly 22" diameter, depending on how deep you want to till and how much total harrow weight you want on each wheel.

You will likely want nine inch spacing between wheels, not seven inch spacing between wheels. Fewer wheels, less float, more penetration.

You need to be able to pull your disc at 4 - 5 mph for max soil mixing.

TWO MORE LINKS:

https://www.google.com/search?clien...arrow+site:tractorbynet.com&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

https://www.google.com/search?clien...arrow+site:tractorbynet.com&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

 

[wmonroe]

I would get a 8' pull type, if you find it is too hard to pull at the proper speed in your soil then drop the outside disks.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Everyone's conditions vary, and for what ever reason everyone else seems to be able to pull a much larger disk than I seem to be able to. But I use a 75hp 4x4 tractor that weighs over 10,000lbs with the loader off and all that I am able to pull every where on our property is an old 8' offset JD-Kielfer disk with 22" notched blades that weighs between 2000-2500lbs. We have what I consider pretty good ground and normally on the second pass I am cutting down to the hubs.

I guess what I'm getting at is that there is no way that I would consider anything over 7' for your size-weight tractor. But then that is probably just me and I'm talking about 20-22" dia disks and an overall unit that is about 2000lbs.

 

[dkhntr04]

For perspective, I use a Landpride DH2572 with my 43hp 3720. I have pulled it in everything from dry light sand to heavy wet gumbo/clay soils. The 3720 pulls it in through anything the disc has the weight to cut into. I would look in the 8' range at least for your machine, others could narrow it down more.

As for a planter, it depends upon your field conditions. if you have very heavy ground, hills, and the planter is drawbar it might struggle. Row cleaners, fert coulters, etc will increase power and traction demands. Flat, light ground you could do more rows.

I am building a 6 row 22" planter for my tractor right now. 2-point semi-mount with lift assist. No fert or insecticide. I will be using it on relatively flat ground with light sandy soil.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Check out our ETA Large Box Frame Harrows. The review on our site is from a customer with a MX5100 and he is very pleased with it.

 

[jeff9366]

What's the biggest disk my tractor will pull without over-working it?

I think ETA's 20/20", 57.5 pounds per disc, would meet your needs. Seven and a half inch spacing but plenty of weight. Should cut and smooth very well.

Screw adjustment is a good feature, especially with clay soil. If wheels begin to slip you can decrease gang angles easily.

 

[Guesseral]

Regardless, you will need a minimum of 5-horsepower per foot of Disc Harrow width plus four wheel drive for mounted Disc Harrows; 6 to 7-horsepower per foot of Disc Harrow width for towed Disc Harrows, plus four wheel drive.


DISC HARROW SELECTION LINK:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/296476-considerations-disc-harrow-selection-18-a.html[/QUOTE]


Ok I have a question. You have listed 6 to 7 HP per foot for a towed disc Harrow. Is that just a drag behind disc harrow or would that also include a wheeled disc? I have a 47HP 4wd compact tractor and I was wanting to get a wheeled disc because I just don't like the 3pt hitch type that is all we used when I was a kid. A friend of mine had a drag type (w/o wheels) and that thing was like dragging dead weight but I was assuming that a wheeled disc would be easier.

 

[jeff9366]

Wheeled discs generally lift via hydraulic power from the tractor. But if you lift the discs you have weight on the tires, almost the same as a three point hitch mounted disc carries implement weight on the tractor's tires. I do not have any personal experience with a towed disc with wheels but I expect 5-horsepower per foot would be sufficient as you can raise the disc a tad to reduce draft force.

Towed Tandem Disc Harrows without transport wheels, such as Massey-Feruson #25, require more power to pull because ALL the harrow weight bears directly on the individual pans, that is why 6 to 7-hp per foot of width is necessary.

Check out MtnViewRanch's NO WHEEL, towed Off-set Disc Harrow in Post #6 and you will see why more power is necessary. Think of the draft force!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Wheeled discs generally lift via hydraulic power from the tractor. But if you lift the discs you have weight on the tires, almost the same as a three point hitch mounted disc carries implement weight on the tractor's tires. I do not have any personal experience with a towed disc with wheels but I expect 5-horsepower per foot would be sufficient.

Towed Tandem Disc Harrows without transport wheels, such as Massey-Feruson #25, require more power to pull, that is why 6 to 7-hp per foot of width is necessary.

Check out MtnViewRanch's NO WHEEL, towed Off-set Disc Harrow in Post #6 and you will see why more power is necessary. Think of the draft force!

We also have a 12 footer of the same type. The 75hp tractor will pull it on flat ground for a first pass only, it won't do it after that. We use our old CAT D6 to pull it over most of our land and if the conditions are right, even it will get the tracks on the CAT slipping (spinning out).

 

[jeff9366]

What are you growing in those fields?

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I've never used a pull-type disc without gauge wheels. Seems like it would be a PITA to move it from one place to another. The ones I used back on the farm, both tandem and offset, all had gauge wheels adjusted with a hydraulic cylinder.

The hydraulic cylinder adjustable wheels allow you to adjust the depth to suit your needs and the tractor's power. They also allow you to raise it up all the way out of the ground to move it from place to place without plowing.

Also, we used to raise it out of the ground when turning in the field. Turning with the discs in the ground puts a lot of stress on the discs, and can also stress the bearings and bearing hangers.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What are you growing in those fields?

WEEDS. We were burned out 12 years ago, :thumbsup: I just keep things disked up when I have a chance. We had another BIG wildfire a year ago or so, came within just over 1000 feet of our place on the East and South sides of our property. If I can ever afford to get a bat wing, I will just keep most of it mowed.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I've never used a pull-type disc without gauge wheels. Seems like it would be a PITA to move it from one place to another. The ones I used back on the farm, both tandem and offset, all had gauge wheels adjusted with a hydraulic cylinder.

The hydraulic cylinder adjustable wheels allow you to adjust the depth to suit your needs and the tractor's power. They also allow you to raise it up all the way out of the ground to move it from place to place without plowing.

Also, we used to raise it out of the ground when turning in the field. Turning with the discs in the ground puts a lot of stress on the discs, and can also stress the bearings and bearing hangers.

No problem turning, as long as you turn left. Disks pop right out of the ground. Cutting depth is adjusted by the angle, less angle=less depth. Transporting on the ranch is no problem, set the disks straight and they just ride along on top of the ground. Sharp turns, no problem, but only as sharp as the draw bar allows before it's up on the tire or track. If a person knows what they are doing, the only time that it's tough is when you are on the first row and you have to turn and come back right next to where you had just left. You get use to it and it becomes automatic.

First row is hard, need to keep it straight and that is hard when you can't see the other end of where you are going. Second row is easy after you make the super tight turn. lt's easy after that. :thumbsup:

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Brian, I understand completely about those left-hand-only turns. I pulled one-way discs and offset discs for years.

You can actually turn an offset disc to the right if you make a gentle turn. If you turn too short to the right, the frame of the plow will catch on the right rear tractor tire, and the disc starts climbing up the tire - tread by tread. If you don't notice it quick enough, the disc can be right on top of you before you know it. (Don't ask me how I know.) I've heard of people being killed that way.

 

[Guesseral]

Well then I assume I should be ok with an 8 or 9' wheeled disc at 47 HP and 4wd.

 

[jeff9366]

Well then I assume I should be ok with an 8 or 9' wheeled disc at 47 HP and 4wd.

Local conditions always rule and I do not know farming in Erie.

It is convenient to have a disc 12" wider than your wheels, 6" per side, so you can disc closer along fence lines, etc.

Frames are solid, but usually disc hangers can be moved in/out 6"-12" along the frame.

Personally I would stay with eight feet. If you decide to turn deep you may need all 47-horsepower.

Remember, you need to be able to move over ground at a good clip in order to throw soil out and in to get a good mix and disrupt unwanted vegetation.

 

[Deerherd]

Well then I assume I should be ok with an 8 or 9' wheeled disc at 47 HP and 4wd.

I have an Athens disc that is right at 100" and with the scrapers weighs in at 2000 lbs. I have a clay soil and am constantly dealing with wet conditions and even with 88 hp and R1 tires it will bog down. I think you might be ok in good conditions with a wheeled disc if you went just slightly wider than your track. You can put some weight on the tires to cut down on drag but would want to be able to run it most of the time in a wheel up position. Do you have R1 or R4 tires?