Ditch & Bank Mower Build

[Densleigh]

Joee,

Talking to a small tractor supplier this week and discussed the trangulation issue. They sell such equipment

His recomendation was to try and provide a higher point to clamp to than the top link point on the tractor, as there was still a small amount of sway due to tolerances in the pins etc (gets amplified over distance) He suggested that what they did was to try and clamp to say the rear ROPS bar area if at all possible and spread the that end out a bit so effectively you end up with a trapezoidal shape set of sway bars, which being rigidly clamped (scaffold clamp as a means of attaching.

Seems a logical idea, as yet I have not got to that point so cannot comment.

As to your counter weight, there are european machines that have a sliding counter weight that obviously keeps it compact for transport.
[url=http://www.ryetec.co.uk/hedgevergemowers.html]Hedge and Verge Mowers

the above link shows a machine that does this, also shows some useful geometry of the arm & mower.

Hope this gives you a few further ideas

 

[ray66v]

Good luck, looks like you have done a lot of had work. I think you need to add some sort of stabilizer to the steel pipe you have on the motor, http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ditch-bank-mower-build-hyd-motor-hookup-2.jpg.
I believe it is going to want to pivot on the elbows as you use the unit. This has been my experience with pipe used in that manor.

 

[sandman2234]

Counter weight is very important with mowers such as these. My Bomford/Turner mower is on a 90 hp tractor FWA with about 1300 pounds of counter weight on the nose, plus it is running dual rear tires. It is nothing to stretch it out backwards and pick the front end up off the ground four or five feet!! The duals help with the side motion and lean in that direction, but even with a monster sized tractor, you still know it is leaning that way.
I would suggest a full length roller on that mower, to allow for setting it on the ground to take the stress of the tractor and prevent scalping.
My hydraulic tank is located at the rear, in the center, which is a disadvantage for weight, but keeps things tucked in rather nicely. A side or front mount one would make weight a better challenge, but I have what I have.
Good looking project, hopefully see some movies or action shots soon!
David from jax

 

[Joee]

Hi Guys, I made a change to the counter weight that allows it to pivot down when not in use. I added a cylinder and valve that will raise and lower the weight as needed. I was like some of you and didn稚 like it sticking straight out without any mobility. I don稚 have any pictures of the change but when I uncover it I will post some.

There is another change I will be making and that is adding wheels to the deck. They are swivel and much like another poster here used on his bank mower. I think it will be much easier to control a mower that rolls vs. one that is trying to follow contour with operator controlling every move.

Joe

 

[sandman2234]

Sounds like some good modifications.
David from jax

 

[Joee]

Hi, I wanted to post some updates to the ditch and bank mower, most of this is your suggestions.

One of the main problems I tried to address was a way to raise and lower counterweight.
Changed from a rigid, straight bar to a hydraulic cylinder to move weight out of way.

Added casters to the mow deck, this really makes the deck easy to control.

Thanks for all your ideas and keep the new thoughts coming.

Joee

 

[Grrrr]

Joee,

What you have created is an absolute masterpiece.

We have a similar type of machine that we bought, it is a bit old, but it does a good job. It is the flail type machine Densleigh mentioned.

I think it is an exceptionally versatile attachment, and use it for lots of things. I hope you get much use out of yours.

 

[CrazyCanadian]

Awesome job. This is my first post to an awesome site. I live to fab and McGivor stuff like this.
What if you were to put on parallel linkages like a self leveling loader so that once you set the angle it would be maintained while moving the mower. May make it more user friendly. The counterweight cylinder could be attached the same way so it moved out as the boom went out. Just as long as a guy watches both sides as he mows or else ;-( LOL
Also having the mower "hang" from a chain or slide mechanism to help it float.
Looking forward to reading the many more awesome posts and hopefully contributing some useful info or pics.

 

[sandman2234]

If you slam that mower into something and bend one (or more!!) of the wheel assemblies, next time try a single roller on each end. They take up less space, take more abuse, don't require filling up with air and don't go flat. Steel rollers work better, but plastic is lighter (and burns better;btdt)
David from jax

 

[Huskerplowboy]

Nice project, looks awesome. Any action shots or videos? I've been thinking of building something like this for my JD 2320 to help mow the ditch/bank along our new property. I have a 30" mower deck off of an old snapper riding mower (One big 30" blade) that woudl be just about perfect as a shredder for this purpose!