ditch digging

sweettractors · Jan 20, 2004

I think this is what jinman is talking about--New or used, They are not expensive and you can push or pull--Ken Sweet
Sweet Farm Equipment LLC *Just South of the National Farm Machinery Show in Louisville, Ky*

Currmudgeon · Jan 20, 2004

Our local Case dealer has a Hurricane Ditcher that cuts a slightly smaller ditch than you're wanting. It basically a PTO driven impeller with a hefty frame that hangs from the 3 PT. The impeller spins and slings the dirt out a chute, like a snow thrower. It's an evil looking machine. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

http://www.hurricane-ditcher.com/main.html

Their smallest model requires 50 HP.

Phred · Jan 20, 2004

narcnh,

I agree. I like to make ditches that are wide and shallow.
That way you don't need to worry about ending up in one.
Also they drain just as well.

Fred

Glenn9643 · Jan 20, 2004

If the ditch is going to serve its purpose it can't always be shallow, and the deeper you go the wider you have to make it if you want to be able to drive through it to mow. The ditch in this attachment goes from nothing at the far end, about 600 feet, to about 4-1/2" at the near end where it discharges into a bayou. If you can't run a bush-hog through a ditch in this country the vines will take it in a little while!

BigEddy · Jan 21, 2004

If you plan on doing a lot, see the swale bucket in the attached. Fantastic for creating long even ditches.

Fluney Welding

djradz · Jan 21, 2004

Jimmy, I cast my vote for the back blade. Even one that is not all that heavy can did big-time if you get it angled enough. Use your 3-pt leveling (tilt)mechanism to set one side way up or down from the other side and then angle the blade as far as it will go. I've even gone past the last pin so that the blade is angled at something more than a 45 degree angle. Essentially, the blade ends up working like a single-bottom plow, except that the ditch ends up with much more gradual sides. A couple of passes in each direction and you've dug a pretty deep ditch. You'll be amazed at how fast it will go!

Inspector507 · Jan 21, 2004

jimmyh,
As soon as this hits the market Terrain Contour Control , it combined with a back blade or a box blade will do the trick all from the operators seat.

avorancher · Jan 23, 2004

Did something similar with my B7800 and box blade. Worked out nicely and took little effort to do about 200 ft.

First I put down the rippers and took out the foot of dirt for the base (in my case it was 54" wide) by making several (many) passes in the same area.

Then, by putting one wheel in the ditch and the other on the higher ground, I used the box scraper again to cut down the edges. I just left the box set to level because the tractor was already tipped.

After a couple rains, the edges are smooth and looks like a natural drainage area.

del · Jan 23, 2004

Its harder to make a smooth ditch bottom with a hoe since
you are cutting out a bit at a time and the spaces
between the bites you take make little dams if your
not careful.

I've been getting better at this by floating the backhoe
bucket and evening out all the previous "bites" as I go along.

Sometimes I just hop in with a hand rake and can fix up 20
feet of ditch in 10 minutes.

I try to do this about the start or end of the "rainy" season
(here in NW that's ALWAYS) so I have a some water to work with
to "test" my slope before laying the pipe. Water lets you know
right away if your slope is OK. Best to have constant even
slope so water is always running in pipe. Not always possible
though.

I've heard there's some kind of laser level that shoots a
red beam on the ground or side of the ditch, maybe then I
could hang up the rubber boots!

As for the ditching, I use a combination of a backhoe and
a rear blade to fix the sides with the backhoe setting the
depth. Depends on ground hardness.

I would think a rear center plow point and a rear triangle
box would work good too. I can't remember where I saw the
triangular shaped rear implements. I see from another's
attachments these are called "swale" buckets.

I have a rear blade that tilts up and down and side to side
and also can be offset so it is sticking outside far more than
the usual rear blade. Ground has to be fairly soft to use
it effectively offset to the max though.

Makes me jealous to watch the "real" blades work on
a roadgrader. Lots of weight and HP.

I'm also done with deep narrow ditches. If I want it left
open to be SURE it is draining I'll slope down a 20 foot wide
section so I can mow it. I must be getting old or tired
because I'm sure I hear the blackberry vines and scrub bushes
whispering when I get near them. "We'll foul that ditch
before he can do anything about it.."

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