Diverter Sanity Check

[avc8130]

I'm getting ready to do a diverter install on my Kubota L45. I plan to break into the bucket curl.

I'm stumbling on 2 fittings.

Here is what my curl function looks like at the loader valve:



I'd like to replace those fittings with JIC elbows. Does that look like -8 ORB? I should be able to use a standard elbow on the right hose, but the left will need a long or extra long?

Here's the shopping list I have so far:

1 12 VDC 13.2 GPM SAE 8 SOLENOID DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE Obviously the diverter itself.
2 3/8" X 60" JIC 8F X JIC 8F 4800 PSI HYD HOSE From diverter valve to curl hard lines on loader.
2 3/8" X 24" JIC 8F X JIC 8F 4800 PSI HYD HOSE From loader valve to diverter valve.
2 3/8" X 120" JIC 8F X JIC 8F 4800 PSI HYD HOSE From diverter to quick connects.
7 JIC 8M x SAE 8M SWIVEL 90 ELBOW 6 on diverter, 1 on loader valve?
1 JIC 8M TO SAE 8M LONG 90 ELBOW Loader valve?
1 JIC 8M x SAE 8M 90 ELBOW X-LONG Loader valve?
1 1/2" NPT FLUSH FACE QUICK COUPLER SET ISO 16028 Quick connects to be standard with skid steer.
2 JIC 8M x 1/2 NPTM CONNECTOR Hose to quick connects.
4 3/8 IN TWO WIRE DUAL HYDRAULIC HOSE CLAMP Keep everything tidy?

Am I thinking with my dipstick? Did I stay at a Holiday Inn last night?

Thanks!

ac

 

[BukitCase]

Those look to me like short and long orb-to-JIC adapters, if you use straight hose fittings all you should need is 90 deg. JIC elbows... Steve

 

[avc8130]

Those look to me like short and long orb-to-JIC adapters, if you use straight hose fittings all you should need is 90 deg. JIC elbows... Steve

Oh, you think that thing on the left is just an ORB extension? Do you think I am right in that they are -8 size?

ac

 

[BukitCase]

Hard to tell without a known reference visible in the pic - download this

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/thread_guide.pdf

Then set your loader down, shut it off, wiggle all the levers several times and loosen the hose enough to get a caliper on the male threads (and look at the inside, should be beveled) - If all you need is to tie into those two ports, it doesn't really matter what the OTHER end is as long as you have two JIC's to hook up to.

I'm assuming you're gonna tie those two ports on the valve to your diverter's inlets, return the normally open outlet pair back to the loader curl, and the two switchable outlets to your grapple (or whatever's new)... Steve

 

[avc8130]

Hard to tell without a known reference visible in the pic - download this

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/thread_guide.pdf

Then set your loader down, shut it off, wiggle all the levers several times and loosen the hose enough to get a caliper on the male threads (and look at the inside, should be beveled) - If all you need is to tie into those two ports, it doesn't really matter what the OTHER end is as long as you have two JIC's to hook up to.

I'm assuming you're gonna tie those two ports on the valve to your diverter's inlets, return the normally open outlet pair back to the loader curl, and the two switchable outlets to your grapple (or whatever's new)... Steve

I was hoping to replace those fittings with elbow fittings so I can use standard hoses. But it just dawned on me I can just use JIC female to JIC male elbows to accomplish the same thing. DUH!

What you describe was exactly my plan.

ac

 

[BukitCase]

Don'cha just LOVE it when a plan comes together? I know I do... Steve

BTW, this is about half the hyd. fittings I have (3-4 sections per bin; 2 tractors, backhoe, 50' manlift, 26' scissor lift, dump truck, etc, projects slated for ALL of 'em... (did I mention that DiscountHydraulicHose.com LOVES me?

 

[avc8130]

Don'cha just LOVE it when a plan comes together? I know I do... Steve

BTW, this is about half the hyd. fittings I have (3-4 sections per bin; 2 tractors, backhoe, 50' manlift, 26' scissor lift, dump truck, etc, projects slated for ALL of 'em... (did I mention that DiscountHydraulicHose.com LOVES me?

You like that site? Everything I've priced from them costs less at surpluscenter.com.

 

[oldnslo]

I would check to make certain that those fittings are actually 37 degree JIC flare and not O-ring face seal fittings (ORFS). The swivel nuts don't look like like JIC 37 degree to me.

 

[avc8130]

I would check to make certain that those fittings are actually 37 degree JIC flare and not O-ring face seal fittings (ORFS). The swivel nuts don't look like like JIC 37 degree to me.

I think I definitely need to crack open both ends of the hose and take some measurements and make 100% sure of what I'm dealing with. It looks like all of the hoses are 3/8 so I might as well stick with that, right?

ac

 

[oldnslo]

Yes 3/8 hose should adequate.

 

[BukitCase]

"You like that site? Everything I've priced from them costs less at surpluscenter.com"

I use both - DHH has very few valves, but a better selection on quite a few fittings. Surplus is also a lot more fun for other, more esoteric stuff.

Agree with Oldnslo, 3/8 is plenty for anything you'd likely run off that diverter except a high flow hydraulic motor, which you didn't mention. And yeah, the swivel nuts look a bit off but that might be just exterior - that's why I suggested taking it apart BEFORE you go any further... Steve

 

[avc8130]

"You like that site? Everything I've priced from them costs less at surpluscenter.com"

I use both - DHH has very few valves, but a better selection on quite a few fittings. Surplus is also a lot more fun for other, more esoteric stuff.

Agree with Oldnslo, 3/8 is plenty for anything you'd likely run off that diverter except a high flow hydraulic motor, which you didn't mention. And yeah, the swivel nuts look a bit off but that might be just exterior - that's why I suggested taking it apart BEFORE you go any further... Steve

Steve,

I pulled the hose off both ends. You guys were dead right about the loader valve. Those are flare adapters in there. Perfect! I measured the thread OD at .74. Looks like -8 to me! The hard line is the same on the loader so it looks like I just need to finalize my hose lengths and I know exactly what to order.

Looks like I need to pay attention to the ports on the valve to make sure I get the flow right.

Thanks!

ac

 

[BukitCase]

Post a pic of your diverter, there are a few different styles. Maybe we can save you the agravation I went thru by forgetting that the two sets of output ports are NOT interchangeable :=(

Also, if you don't need full flow for the add-on adapting down to 3/8 at the valve will let you run smaller, easier to flex hoses for the add-on - but DO NOT do this with the two lines that continue on to the original curl circuit, there are times when that extra speed is usefull for shaking stuff loose from the bucket... Steve

 

[avc8130]

Post a pic of your diverter, there are a few different styles. Maybe we can save you the agravation I went thru by forgetting that the two sets of output ports are NOT interchangeable :=(

Also, if you don't need full flow for the add-on adapting down to 3/8 at the valve will let you run smaller, easier to flex hoses for the add-on - but DO NOT do this with the two lines that continue on to the original curl circuit, there are times when that extra speed is usefull for shaking stuff loose from the bucket... Steve

Steve,

Here is the valve I have:



The ports are labeled as follows:
Top Right: C1
Bottom Right: C4
Top Left: P1
Bottom Left: P2
Top Front:C2
Bottom Front: C3

For some reason Photobucket is putting the picture in the post rotated. You can see the ports labeled "Cx".

It's not really "adapting" to 3/8. Every hose from the loader valve is 3/8". The hoses are clearly labeled "3/8"...even the curl ones. I've never noticed the functions were slow?

ac

 

[BukitCase]

IF all your hoses are already 3/8, I'd just stick with that. I'm using all field install hose ends, no problems with them and they make it easier to get EXACT lengths for each hose. The garden hose/air hose trick is OK, but hydraulic hose doesn't act the same as either one.

You have the same basic valve, different source - the mistake I made was paying more attention to where the solenoids sat than which ports were in (P1 P2) and which were normally open ( C1 C4) - After custom bending stainless tubing, custom valve/QD bulkhead, etc, I discovered the error which would have made hose routing really ugly. Scrapped the whole thing and will re-do it after I get all the leaking cylinders kitted (6 more to go)

You can see by the pix that I probably wasn't too pleased when I saw the mistake

If you don't have the PDF from Trausch dynamics I have a copy, but it may be too big for TBN - don't recall the max size. I also have a smaller version from Surplus. Let me know if you need one... Steve

 

[avc8130]

IF all your hoses are already 3/8, I'd just stick with that. I'm using all field install hose ends, no problems with them and they make it easier to get EXACT lengths for each hose. The garden hose/air hose trick is OK, but hydraulic hose doesn't act the same as either one.

You have the same basic valve, different source - the mistake I made was paying more attention to where the solenoids sat than which ports were in (P1 P2) and which were normally open ( C1 C4) - After custom bending stainless tubing, custom valve/QD bulkhead, etc, I discovered the error which would have made hose routing really ugly. Scrapped the whole thing and will re-do it after I get all the leaking cylinders kitted (6 more to go)

You can see by the pix that I probably wasn't too pleased when I saw the mistake

If you don't have the PDF from Trausch dynamics I have a copy, but it may be too big for TBN - don't recall the max size. I also have a smaller version from Surplus. Let me know if you need one... Steve

I was surprised when I saw the hose size as well, but then I was pleasantly happy. It will save me a few bucks and it's MUCH easier to work with 3/8 than 1/2!

I was thinking of doing hard lines, but it's just a lot of work. In stead I plan to mount the hoses nicely along the loader. I'm thinking I might try P-Clamps first and then move to those weld on brackets. I'm surprised no one makes a bolt on hose clamp mount from what I've found.

This is the schematic I will need to follow?

http://www.surpluscenter.com/_MoreSpecs/i9-8602.pdf

ac

 

[newbury]

Don'cha just LOVE it when a plan comes together? I know I do... Steve

BTW, this is about half the hyd. fittings I have (3-4 sections per bin; 2 tractors, backhoe, 50' manlift, 26' scissor lift, dump truck, etc, projects slated for ALL of 'em... (did I mention that DiscountHydraulicHose.com LOVES me?

That's just pretty.

 

[BukitCase]

Thanks Newbury - it's pretty expensive, pretty ****, BUT it's also pretty nice to be able to find what I'm looking for in less than a day or two ...Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Sorry AC, got sidetracked - yes, that's the connection diagram you want. Yeah, hard lines aren't for everybody - I spent the last 35 years of my career doing industrial instrumentation/automation, so bending tube up to at least 1/2" is no big deal - but it's probably not worth doing that large of tubing UNLESS you're willing to fork over the dough for a REAL bender with roller guides - this is the one I use -

Ridgid 38048 1/2-Inch Capacity Instrument Tubing Bender - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com

Smaller tube doesn't need rollers for most stuff, I use this one for 3/8

Ridgid 36097 36097 BENDER, 406 TUBE - Rebar Cutters And Benders - Amazon.com

But without a fair amount of experience finding out what DOESN'T work, I'd stick to hoses too... Steve

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

This might be kinda late but doesn't the Kabota parts schematic/diagram describe the fittings?