Diverter Sanity Check

[BukitCase]

"You like that site? Everything I've priced from them costs less at surpluscenter.com"

I use both - DHH has very few valves, but a better selection on quite a few fittings. Surplus is also a lot more fun for other, more esoteric stuff.

Agree with Oldnslo, 3/8 is plenty for anything you'd likely run off that diverter except a high flow hydraulic motor, which you didn't mention. And yeah, the swivel nuts look a bit off but that might be just exterior - that's why I suggested taking it apart BEFORE you go any further... Steve

 

[avc8130]

"You like that site? Everything I've priced from them costs less at surpluscenter.com"

I use both - DHH has very few valves, but a better selection on quite a few fittings. Surplus is also a lot more fun for other, more esoteric stuff.

Agree with Oldnslo, 3/8 is plenty for anything you'd likely run off that diverter except a high flow hydraulic motor, which you didn't mention. And yeah, the swivel nuts look a bit off but that might be just exterior - that's why I suggested taking it apart BEFORE you go any further... Steve

Steve,

I pulled the hose off both ends. You guys were dead right about the loader valve. Those are flare adapters in there. Perfect! I measured the thread OD at .74. Looks like -8 to me! The hard line is the same on the loader so it looks like I just need to finalize my hose lengths and I know exactly what to order.

Looks like I need to pay attention to the ports on the valve to make sure I get the flow right.

Thanks!

ac

 

[BukitCase]

Post a pic of your diverter, there are a few different styles. Maybe we can save you the agravation I went thru by forgetting that the two sets of output ports are NOT interchangeable :=(

Also, if you don't need full flow for the add-on adapting down to 3/8 at the valve will let you run smaller, easier to flex hoses for the add-on - but DO NOT do this with the two lines that continue on to the original curl circuit, there are times when that extra speed is usefull for shaking stuff loose from the bucket... Steve

 

[avc8130]

Post a pic of your diverter, there are a few different styles. Maybe we can save you the agravation I went thru by forgetting that the two sets of output ports are NOT interchangeable :=(

Also, if you don't need full flow for the add-on adapting down to 3/8 at the valve will let you run smaller, easier to flex hoses for the add-on - but DO NOT do this with the two lines that continue on to the original curl circuit, there are times when that extra speed is usefull for shaking stuff loose from the bucket... Steve

Steve,

Here is the valve I have:



The ports are labeled as follows:
Top Right: C1
Bottom Right: C4
Top Left: P1
Bottom Left: P2
Top Front:C2
Bottom Front: C3

For some reason Photobucket is putting the picture in the post rotated. You can see the ports labeled "Cx".

It's not really "adapting" to 3/8. Every hose from the loader valve is 3/8". The hoses are clearly labeled "3/8"...even the curl ones. I've never noticed the functions were slow?

ac

 

[BukitCase]

IF all your hoses are already 3/8, I'd just stick with that. I'm using all field install hose ends, no problems with them and they make it easier to get EXACT lengths for each hose. The garden hose/air hose trick is OK, but hydraulic hose doesn't act the same as either one.

You have the same basic valve, different source - the mistake I made was paying more attention to where the solenoids sat than which ports were in (P1 P2) and which were normally open ( C1 C4) - After custom bending stainless tubing, custom valve/QD bulkhead, etc, I discovered the error which would have made hose routing really ugly. Scrapped the whole thing and will re-do it after I get all the leaking cylinders kitted (6 more to go)

You can see by the pix that I probably wasn't too pleased when I saw the mistake

If you don't have the PDF from Trausch dynamics I have a copy, but it may be too big for TBN - don't recall the max size. I also have a smaller version from Surplus. Let me know if you need one... Steve

 

[avc8130]

IF all your hoses are already 3/8, I'd just stick with that. I'm using all field install hose ends, no problems with them and they make it easier to get EXACT lengths for each hose. The garden hose/air hose trick is OK, but hydraulic hose doesn't act the same as either one.

You have the same basic valve, different source - the mistake I made was paying more attention to where the solenoids sat than which ports were in (P1 P2) and which were normally open ( C1 C4) - After custom bending stainless tubing, custom valve/QD bulkhead, etc, I discovered the error which would have made hose routing really ugly. Scrapped the whole thing and will re-do it after I get all the leaking cylinders kitted (6 more to go)

You can see by the pix that I probably wasn't too pleased when I saw the mistake

If you don't have the PDF from Trausch dynamics I have a copy, but it may be too big for TBN - don't recall the max size. I also have a smaller version from Surplus. Let me know if you need one... Steve

I was surprised when I saw the hose size as well, but then I was pleasantly happy. It will save me a few bucks and it's MUCH easier to work with 3/8 than 1/2!

I was thinking of doing hard lines, but it's just a lot of work. In stead I plan to mount the hoses nicely along the loader. I'm thinking I might try P-Clamps first and then move to those weld on brackets. I'm surprised no one makes a bolt on hose clamp mount from what I've found.

This is the schematic I will need to follow?

http://www.surpluscenter.com/_MoreSpecs/i9-8602.pdf

ac

 

[newbury]

Don'cha just LOVE it when a plan comes together? I know I do... Steve

BTW, this is about half the hyd. fittings I have (3-4 sections per bin; 2 tractors, backhoe, 50' manlift, 26' scissor lift, dump truck, etc, projects slated for ALL of 'em... (did I mention that DiscountHydraulicHose.com LOVES me?

That's just pretty.

 

[BukitCase]

Thanks Newbury - it's pretty expensive, pretty ****, BUT it's also pretty nice to be able to find what I'm looking for in less than a day or two ...Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Sorry AC, got sidetracked - yes, that's the connection diagram you want. Yeah, hard lines aren't for everybody - I spent the last 35 years of my career doing industrial instrumentation/automation, so bending tube up to at least 1/2" is no big deal - but it's probably not worth doing that large of tubing UNLESS you're willing to fork over the dough for a REAL bender with roller guides - this is the one I use -

Ridgid 38048 1/2-Inch Capacity Instrument Tubing Bender - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com

Smaller tube doesn't need rollers for most stuff, I use this one for 3/8

Ridgid 36097 36097 BENDER, 406 TUBE - Rebar Cutters And Benders - Amazon.com

But without a fair amount of experience finding out what DOESN'T work, I'd stick to hoses too... Steve

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

This might be kinda late but doesn't the Kabota parts schematic/diagram describe the fittings?