Diverter valve now in stock at Surplus

[J_J]

If have FEL now, the diverter is mounted on the loader boom and uses the curl circuit for the grapple or whatever. You only heed short hoses to connect the diverter valve to the cyl, and then the wiring and switch.

You will lose some pressure if you run the pump at max.

If you run the engine at about 3/4, you should be good.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

I have essentially the same valve from Bailey. I don't know why the picture is not correct but here is the link: Stackable Solenoid-Operated Circuit Selector Valve
This one has the correct picture. http://www.baileynet.com/product/9573

Mine has been sticky lately in the cold weather where it doesn't always want to engage. If I hold the button it usually goes after a slight delay.

Advantages of this route are simple plumbing all downstream of the control valve, no additional sub plate, etc. required. Use straight or 45 degree adapters so you have clearance to screw them in. Something like this: SAE 8M TO 1/2 NPTF 45 SWIVEL

 

[TimBuck2]

JJ, that is the way I first envisioned powering my plow angle, however, the hydraulic lines on my FEL are almost entirely steel tubing. The only hoses (and existing connections to tap into) are those connecting the loader valve to the tubing, and then short hoses from the tubing to each of the eight cylinder ports.

I would have to cut into the tubing to put the solenoid valve out on the boom. So it could really only go between the loader valve and the steel tubing.

Since that would require running tubing all the way from the cab out to the "end" of the boom anyhow, I plan to add the third position control valve, and then the solenoid valve to have two extra functions for the FEL.

 

[J_J]

That is the valve I usually post and it is less expensive than the others at $116.


TimBuck2

Can you not do something like this BX-25

http://youtu.be/YuNFckWxuog

 

[kennyd]

One negative thing about both of the offerings from the Surplus Center is the mounting, being that they have ports on three sides and/or mounting holes on the side it's a bit more challenging.

 

[muddstopper]

I have essentially the same valve from Bailey. I don't know why the picture is not correct but here is the link: Stackable Solenoid-Operated Circuit Selector Valve
This one has the correct picture. http://www.baileynet.com/product/9573

Mine has been sticky lately in the cold weather where it doesn't always want to engage. If I hold the button it usually goes after a slight delay.

Advantages of this route are simple plumbing all downstream of the control valve, no additional sub plate, etc. required. Use straight or 45 degree adapters so you have clearance to screw them in. Something like this: SAE 8M TO 1/2 NPTF 45 SWIVEL

brad, you might try to remove the solenoid from the valve and cleaning it up to stop the sticking and slow action. I have had many a solenoid valve stop working and find the shaft the solenoid slides onto to be corroded. Little hit with emory cloth and it works like new. I think the corrosion just interferes with the magnetic field of the solenoid and you dont get the pull you would have when the shaft is clean. If when you remove the plastic cap screw you find the solenoid is hard to pull off, you can just about bet corrosion is the issue. another test to see if the soleniod is working is to just stick a steel screwdriver inside and activate the solenoid, you should feel a strong magnetic pull on the screwdriver. If it is not pulling hard, then your solenoid might be getting weak.

 

[TimBuck2]

JJ, that BX25 had a single, center curl cylinder so the steel hydraulic lines end in center of the FEL cross member, right where you would want the diverter valve.

My FEL has duel curl cylinders. The steel lines have T blocks pressed (welded?) into them at the right side of the boom cross memeber to supply the right cylinder, and elbow block pressed onto the ends at the left side of the cross member for the left cylinder.

I suppose I could see if a hydro shop could add T blocks to the middle of the cross member, but I am not sure I want to risk messing up those steel lines.