Diverter Valve troubleshooting

   / Diverter Valve troubleshooting #11  
Could someone explain why you shouldn’t plumb to the tank line and what would be the alternative configuration?
If both valves installed were diverter (selector) valves, then they should have been connected to the work ports of an existing spool valve. If the diverter valves are actually actuating the cylinders correctly then there's no way it was connected to a tank port.

Now if they also added a spool valve to the system or the cylinders aren't working correctly then I could see a plumbing problem.

The loader cylinders are Tee'd together, so unless they somehow managed to get the diverter after the Tee, I dont see how it would effect one boom cylinder. (The Tee is located on the loader cross bar)
 
   / Diverter Valve troubleshooting #12  
Could someone explain why you shouldn’t plumb to the tank line and what would be the alternative configuration?
If the diverter is installed in a tank line in such a manner that it creates back pressure on that line it could damage valves and components up stream. I.e. relief valves would operate at higher pressures, potentially blow seals around directional valve spools, worse case crack a valve housing.

How many hoses are connected to these diverter valves?
 
   / Diverter Valve troubleshooting #13  
If the diverter is installed in a tank line in such a manner that it creates back pressure on that line it could damage valves and components up stream. I.e. relief valves would operate at higher pressures, potentially blow seals around directional valve spools, worse case crack a valve housing.

How many hoses are connected to these diverter valves?
The diverter only has 6 ports, 2 connect to the work ports of a directional control valve and the other 4 ports connect to whichever cylinders you want to control.

If the 2 circuits the diverter is controlling are working, then it is plumbed correctly.

Loader mounted one is pretty straightforward, however I'm wondering what control valve is being used for the rear diverter.

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   / Diverter Valve troubleshooting
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Both lines coming off the back of the diverter go to the connection on the spool with the red zip tie (second from left.


On the front of the valve there’s a red line zip tie on the left and a green on the right.
 

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   / Diverter Valve troubleshooting
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Could it be a problem with back pressure from the force of the bucket pushing against the thumb?
 
   / Diverter Valve troubleshooting #16  
Could it be a problem with back pressure from the force of the bucket pushing against the thumb?
Which function do you have to operate for the thumb to function? That should be the only function effected by any bucket force on the thumb.
 
   / Diverter Valve troubleshooting #17  
Are both solenoids being activated at the same time?
They need to be, they both have to operate to switch the function one circuit to the other.

Also they should be wired in parallel not in series.
 
   / Diverter Valve troubleshooting #18  
I much prefer this type, just one coil to fail. One pair of wires to connect a hot and a ground.
Less to go wrong and easier to install and they can be stacked for multiple circuits.

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   / Diverter Valve troubleshooting #19  
Could it be a problem with back pressure from the force of the bucket pushing against the thumb?
Definitely a possibility, a work port relief for the thumb is a good idea. What function is the thumb diverter on?

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