DIY logging winch build

[Jim Timber]

You must be careful and choose something that doesn't stays engaged if you lose power to the winch.

Yes, this is an application that absolutely must "fail safe". If power or hydraulic pressure is lost, the design must revert to the disengaged state rather than engaged or remaining engaged (even if only partially).

What I've been contemplating is having the hydraulic cylinder push against a spring that would retract the cam lever to the off position. This way you only need pressure to engage the clutch and if anything fails it disengages it.

 

[davedj1]

So a very disheartening day, spent the morning grinding the new ramp pieces and took the clutch disc out and put in some brake pads. Put it all back together and hauled it over to my buddies land. First log and nuttin' It won't even begin to pull but on a brighter note I did have free wheeling so it was easy to pull the cable out. I skidded about 10 logs out by just pulling them with the cable out, then back up while the PTO is in and letting the cable wind up, then pull ahead again etc. etc.
I'm guessing I have a lot going on (or not going on depending on your point of view) The first thing is I believe I have too much flex on the sprocket and the drum end. I can reinforce the drum end easy enough but not sure how to go about it on the sprocket. My first thought is to add some sort of bearings behind the sprocket for it to push against instead of flexing, any ideas on that one? LOL
Can anyone tell me the gauge chain on a farmi or fransgard winch> I am using #50. I wonder if #60 would have a thicker sprocket. Looking at the pictures of the farmi drum it looks as though the rear part of the drum is 1/2" thick? Mine is only 5/16". I think I have a work around for that.
Oh well, tomorrow is another day and it looks to be a crappy one so I can tear it apart again.

 

[Jim Timber]

I'm pretty sure the commercial units are using #80 or larger chain. I'm not sure exactly on my FX85, but it's some sizeable stuff.

 

[Jstpssng]

Looking at your clutch plates, you will probably end up adding more pads. I haven't had my Uniforest apart yet, but I do know that on my Fransgard it was a one piece disc, riveted the backing plate.

 

[Rustyiron]

I've been wondering if it'd be possible to rig a self-contained hydraulic system running a pump off the outside of the drive chain off the PTO, then a solenoid valve to operate a single acting cylinder which is retracted via a spring? Then you'd only need the 12v for the valve and you already need that for the remote anyway.

If your describing what I think your are, Tajfun makes a nice winch that runs as you describe. It's not in the same price category but a remote winch would be real nice limbing & topping in the woods as you could drag it past you as you trim it up and stay ahead of all that brush that can be dangerous walking in. I like to "break down" the tops rather than leaving it whole in the woods.

 

[Oldpath05]

Four years ago my winch chain broke so had to go get a repair link and bought a couple extra, the chain hasn't broke again but if it does I'm ready, the package says 50 on it so that must be the size.

 

[davedj1]

Very cool, thank you. I may just go the pin route for the wedge part. Been studying that setup.

 

[Oldpath05]

Looking at your clutch plates, you will probably end up adding more pads. I haven't had my Uniforest apart yet, but I do know that on my Fransgard it was a one piece disc, riveted the backing plate.

I concur theres no wheres near enough brake material on davedj1 brake disc, seems so that ramp collar should work>>

 

[davedj1]

Here is how one store bought winch is built, I suppose this is how they combat the flex.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...igger-tractor-winch_disassemble-14-medium-jpg

 

[Agvg]

Don't get the link to work