DIY rebuilding hydrolic cylinders.

[WranglerX]

Based on the photo of the steering cylinder I would suggest first degreasing and cleaning it out completely so you can find out where exactly it is leaking from?

By the way, it looks like the tierod above it is bent pretty good!

Agreed.....First baby step in doing repair...

 

[JasperFrank]

I just didn't have time to pressure wash for the pics, but I'm certain that only the seals are leaking. Did a test for this last time I had it all cleaned up a couple weeks ago. I have a tool that will work for the Steering Cylinder Gland Cap. I will double check to see if this is also pinned like the ones in the Vid. The Loader Cylinder's Hex Gland Cap, I can see will be an issue, Since I don't have any standard wrench big enough to fit that. Pipe Wrench? Will need to find a solution before I take that off the loader. The tie-rod was bent when I bought the tractor 25 years ago, and must have been re-aligned as the front wheels are spot on parallel.

 

[California]

... The Loader Cylinder's Hex Gland Cap, I can see will be an issue, Since I don't have any standard wrench big enough to fit that. Pipe Wrench?

Not a pipe wrench, there's not enough of that hex exposed to take the force of pipe wrench teeth, you would just chew it up. I think you need to buy or make something like a fuel line wrench that is hex with an opening, to fit over the rod. If it's anywhere near as tight as my loader's cylinders you will need a wrench with a 4~5 ft handle to apply enough force.

My 1980 Great Bend loader cylinder end caps are like a jar lid, with beefy external metal to get a pipe wrench on. I took the first one to the local hydraulics shop and it came back with nasty pipe wrench gouges in the end cap, and cost $165. The heck with that. Next time $10 for seals and I did it myself. However - I had to buy HF's 4 ft pipe wrench then add a cheater pipe on that, before I could unscrew the cap.

I think applying that much force would just rip a vise off the workbench. It's simpler to leave the cylinder in place while getting the end cap off so the pin at the end takes the force. Then after you pull the rod/piston out, re-attach the rod where it belongs when you go to unscrew the piston's end nut, so the pin at the end of the rod gives you something to resist the twisting force. Obviously you need adequate cushioning for the naked rod so it doesn't get scratched, maybe a soft wood block.

I've done a half dozen of them on my loader and 3-point backhoe. (also 1980). One I got the rod seal in folded over and had to re-do. Overall they were successful projects and a substantial cost savings.

 

[LD1]

I have used a pipe wrench several times on loader cylinders like that without issue.

I have also used a vise to grab the hex and a pipewrench on the body of the cylinder.

But do yourself a favor and while it is still attached to the tractor (as pictured) is the time to break that gland cap loose.

 

[JasperFrank]

LD1 We are thinking the same! Was just going to ask if i could start the gland caps off while attached to the tractor. Tried before asking, and with a bit of force the loader's Gland Cap moved. Actually, I'm wondering if I can just drop the Ford 7106 loader cylinder's right side down - see pic above - and pull out the piston and rod inners to work with on the bench. Just bought a huge adjustable wrench this morning. The pipe wrench may have worked, but I needed a bigger wrench for other stuff anyway... $20. Gonna try to start the Steering Cylinder Gland next. This, I know I'm going to have to remove the whole unit, for bench work. Edit.... Just tried the tool i thought would work on the Steering Cylinder. Gott'er to back out a little on that Gland Nut also in place. Its a motorcycle tool.

 

[California]

... with a bit of force the loader's Gland Cap moved. Actually, I'm wondering if I can just drop the Ford 7106 loader cylinder's right side down - see pic above - and pull out the piston and rod inners to work with on the bench. Just bought a huge adjustable wrench this morning. The pipe wrench may have worked, but I needed a bigger wrench for other stuff anyway... $20. Gonna try to start the Steering Cylinder Gland next. This, I know I'm going to have to remove the whole unit, for bench work.

Good to read that your project is going well! Sounds like your cylinders were built to be more user-maintainable than my experience.

 

[JasperFrank]

Good to read that your project is going well! Sounds like your cylinders were built to be more user-maintainable than my experience.

Mine is a "Little Tractor." So its on a much smaller scale than what most folk here have to deal with. The odd part of this, was that the local New Holland Dealer said straight out that they don't take in cylinders, for rebuilding- you have to buy a whole new unit. And I called locally, to all the other local cylinder rebuild shops, and they would not do "Small Stuff" like this. Would have gladly paid $400 to have the two cylinders resealed: Drop off and pick up. This is an opportunity for younger trade's persons to pick up on and have a skill. All those ranch-ettes and all those "little tractors" out there like mine, its got to be a huge market in small hydraulic local repair.
Anyway, I'm re-tightening these up till I get all the dirt we ordered in place around the property, then some time for down time, and getting the seals mailed out for the Loader Cylinder. I have to say, all you guys are excellent to bounce ideas off of here at Tractorbynet.

 

[California]

Mine is a "Little Tractor." So its on a much smaller scale than what most folk here ...local cylinder rebuild shops would not do "Small Stuff" like this. Would have gladly paid $400 [for] Drop off and pick up. ... its got to be a huge market in small hydraulic local repair.

I'm surprised. My Yanmars (see my sig photo below) are in the same size and age category as your Shibaura/Ford. The local hydraulics & bearings specialty shop here is doing a booming business. They treat me same as the real farmer - and regular customer - rushing in wild-eyed demanding RIGHT NOW service because his expensive equipment went down unexpectedly and he has a crew standing idle while he can't get his grape allotment to the vintner within the window of time they designated for him so the grapes will rot as the day warms up.

Maybe the farm equipment around here is smaller in general than where you are. Much of the ag here is vineyards and orchards, as well as livestock ranching with haying and trucking. And we likely have as much or more weekend (or retired) hobby farms being an hour from San Francisco, so plenty of small or elderly tractors like yours and mine.

I asked the counter lady how often they get a customer who roars in shouting he needs seal replaced or a hose duplicated Right Now!!! She grinned and said "Oh, about twice a day".

 

[Richard]

It's simpler to leave the cylinder in place while getting the end cap off so the pin at the end takes the force.

^^This^^

If you have threaded ends, leave it in place while you fight with the wrench, this way you have TWO "hands" holding it while you fight the nut.

When done, put it back with loose threads (but start them), put in place and use the same hands again to hold it while you tighten it down.

My caps are easily accessible so I ended up using a large pipe wrench with a cheater bar to snug it down (and to remove it).