DIY rebuilding hydrolic cylinders.

[JasperFrank]

Having struck out finding any one local willing to rebuild the steering cylinder on my 87 ford 1220, I've decided to bite the bullet and do it my self. All ready bought the rebuild seal kit. Anyone know of a good instruction vid on doing this?

 

[LD1]

There are several different ways a cylinder can come apart. Some have a threaded gland nut, some have a snap ring, some have a wire ring that requires compressing the end cap a little, there are a few other ways too.

Dont have a video, but once apart they arent that hard. Just replace the seals and reassemble. Make sure the bore and rod arent scored up or it will eat new seals, and take note of the direction and location of current seals so you put them back together correctly.

Take a picture of the cylinder and we could better advise on how it comes apart

 

[Richard]

Yep, what he said.

I went cold turkey to doing them on my JCB. I had some fits getting the seal over and onto the piston. Seems like it was nearing 1/2" thick so it was pretty stout.

Once you do it, you're going to wonder why you ever contemplated paying someone to do it for you.

I had my harsh lesson when the dealer tried to charge me $1,200 to redo my dipper stick cylinder. As a courtesy, they lowered it to something like $900. Oh, they DID spray some new yellow paint on it, but did a crappy job of that too.

That was the last time I have ever set foot in that place. Did it myself INCLUDING that same cylinder a number of years later (now about a year ago).... if I recall, I think I spent about $75 for the parts and some elbow grease.

OH, and I once totally wrestled taking my trunion cylinders off.... was a nightmare.... now that I know what I know, I'd simply do them in place.

(smacks self on forehead)

 

[JimRB]

Abom79 on Youtube just made a tractor cylinder rebuild video the past month. He has a few cylinder repair videos. This install kit can help you get those impossible seals installed. I guess they are called wiper seals that can be challenging. https://herculesus.com/product.php?productcode=IT TOOL SET-A PROMO&pd=Y&cat=15468&pid=1625558

 

[BukitCase]

That's a great price on the seal tool kit - I paid more than TWICE that on Amazon about 3 years ago AFTER doing 6 of the 13 cylinders on my 580B, and did the rest in about HALF the time/agrivation... Steve

 

[JasperFrank]

Some pics. By the by, thanks guys for all the encouragement. Now i just have to figure out when I'll have a free couple days to work on them. I use the tractor everyday in the summer and fall. None of the other FEL cylinders leak, only one does. Should I do all four of them?

 

[hosspuller]

Do one. Then ... You will know you're ready to do the others after learning your limits of tolerance, perseverance, and strength.

 

[arto98607]

Some pics. By the by, thanks guys for all the encouragement. Now i just have to figure out when I'll have a free couple days to work on them. I use the tractor everyday in the summer and fall. None of the other FEL cylinders leak, only one does. Should I do all four of them?

Based on the photo of the steering cylinder I would suggest first degreasing and cleaning it out completely so you can find out where exactly it is leaking from?

By the way, it looks like the tierod above it is bent pretty good!

 

[LD1]

I agree that you need to clean it up and make sure the cylinder is indeed the culprit.

IF it is.....it looks like a thread in gland cap but it looks like one that takes a pin-type spanner wrench. (similar to the little tool for 4-1/2" angle grinders) just a bit bigger. IF you are handy....you can make one.

It looks like the pin boss in the end of the rod is a welded on piece. This means total disassembly. Gotta take the piston off the rod to slide the gland cap off that way. Like I said, pay attention to location and orientation of the seals and backup rings.

When putting back together, use loctite or even a chisel to stake the threads on the piston nut. You DONT want that coming unthreaded.

AS to the loader cylinder, pretty much the exact same deal only it has a hex on the threaded gland cap. And I'd only rebuild what is leaking. I use the "dont fix it if it aint broke" mentality on cylinders

 

[EddieWalker]

I used to rebuild my cylinders. The dealer sells a kit that includes parts for my tractor, along with a bunch of other models. You pick the parts that you need, and through away the rest. Cost kept climbing for the kits and then New Holland decided that you had to buy a new piston when rebuilding your cylinder and they no longer sold kits that would work on the original piston. The kit was around a hundred bucks, and the piston was over a hundred bucks.

The Parts Guy told me that they send their cylinders out to a hydraulic rebuild shop in town. They do not buy the New Holland kits, they are too expensive. I went to the Shop and they rebuilt it for me for a hundred bucks. They only need about $5 in parts and it takes them about half an hour to do the job. Easy money for them, cheaper for me, and I don't have to deal with it.

Getting the cylinder off is usually pretty simple. Greasy, but simple.

Opening up the cylinder is the first obstacle in the quest. On my New Holland backhoe, I have 3 different ways of opening them up. Each is pain in it's own way. You will need a big vice to hold it still, and plenty of tools to figure out how to unscrew it.

It all slides out pretty easily and you just replace all the seals one at a time from the kit. They are mostly plastic of some kind and they just slide over the piston, into place. This is super easy.

And then the hardest part of the rebuild is getting it back together without pinching or damaging all the brand new seals that are bigger then the worn out ones you just replaced. For me, this was pure misery.

Screwing the cap back on and installing it is really quick and simple.

 

[WranglerX]

Based on the photo of the steering cylinder I would suggest first degreasing and cleaning it out completely so you can find out where exactly it is leaking from?

By the way, it looks like the tierod above it is bent pretty good!

Agreed.....First baby step in doing repair...

 

[JasperFrank]

I just didn't have time to pressure wash for the pics, but I'm certain that only the seals are leaking. Did a test for this last time I had it all cleaned up a couple weeks ago. I have a tool that will work for the Steering Cylinder Gland Cap. I will double check to see if this is also pinned like the ones in the Vid. The Loader Cylinder's Hex Gland Cap, I can see will be an issue, Since I don't have any standard wrench big enough to fit that. Pipe Wrench? Will need to find a solution before I take that off the loader. The tie-rod was bent when I bought the tractor 25 years ago, and must have been re-aligned as the front wheels are spot on parallel.

 

[California]

... The Loader Cylinder's Hex Gland Cap, I can see will be an issue, Since I don't have any standard wrench big enough to fit that. Pipe Wrench?

Not a pipe wrench, there's not enough of that hex exposed to take the force of pipe wrench teeth, you would just chew it up. I think you need to buy or make something like a fuel line wrench that is hex with an opening, to fit over the rod. If it's anywhere near as tight as my loader's cylinders you will need a wrench with a 4~5 ft handle to apply enough force.

My 1980 Great Bend loader cylinder end caps are like a jar lid, with beefy external metal to get a pipe wrench on. I took the first one to the local hydraulics shop and it came back with nasty pipe wrench gouges in the end cap, and cost $165. The heck with that. Next time $10 for seals and I did it myself. However - I had to buy HF's 4 ft pipe wrench then add a cheater pipe on that, before I could unscrew the cap.

I think applying that much force would just rip a vise off the workbench. It's simpler to leave the cylinder in place while getting the end cap off so the pin at the end takes the force. Then after you pull the rod/piston out, re-attach the rod where it belongs when you go to unscrew the piston's end nut, so the pin at the end of the rod gives you something to resist the twisting force. Obviously you need adequate cushioning for the naked rod so it doesn't get scratched, maybe a soft wood block.

I've done a half dozen of them on my loader and 3-point backhoe. (also 1980). One I got the rod seal in folded over and had to re-do. Overall they were successful projects and a substantial cost savings.

 

[LD1]

I have used a pipe wrench several times on loader cylinders like that without issue.

I have also used a vise to grab the hex and a pipewrench on the body of the cylinder.

But do yourself a favor and while it is still attached to the tractor (as pictured) is the time to break that gland cap loose.

 

[JasperFrank]

LD1 We are thinking the same! Was just going to ask if i could start the gland caps off while attached to the tractor. Tried before asking, and with a bit of force the loader's Gland Cap moved. Actually, I'm wondering if I can just drop the Ford 7106 loader cylinder's right side down - see pic above - and pull out the piston and rod inners to work with on the bench. Just bought a huge adjustable wrench this morning. The pipe wrench may have worked, but I needed a bigger wrench for other stuff anyway... $20. Gonna try to start the Steering Cylinder Gland next. This, I know I'm going to have to remove the whole unit, for bench work. Edit.... Just tried the tool i thought would work on the Steering Cylinder. Gott'er to back out a little on that Gland Nut also in place. Its a motorcycle tool.

 

[California]

... with a bit of force the loader's Gland Cap moved. Actually, I'm wondering if I can just drop the Ford 7106 loader cylinder's right side down - see pic above - and pull out the piston and rod inners to work with on the bench. Just bought a huge adjustable wrench this morning. The pipe wrench may have worked, but I needed a bigger wrench for other stuff anyway... $20. Gonna try to start the Steering Cylinder Gland next. This, I know I'm going to have to remove the whole unit, for bench work.

Good to read that your project is going well! Sounds like your cylinders were built to be more user-maintainable than my experience.

 

[JasperFrank]

Good to read that your project is going well! Sounds like your cylinders were built to be more user-maintainable than my experience.

Mine is a "Little Tractor." So its on a much smaller scale than what most folk here have to deal with. The odd part of this, was that the local New Holland Dealer said straight out that they don't take in cylinders, for rebuilding- you have to buy a whole new unit. And I called locally, to all the other local cylinder rebuild shops, and they would not do "Small Stuff" like this. Would have gladly paid $400 to have the two cylinders resealed: Drop off and pick up. This is an opportunity for younger trade's persons to pick up on and have a skill. All those ranch-ettes and all those "little tractors" out there like mine, its got to be a huge market in small hydraulic local repair.
Anyway, I'm re-tightening these up till I get all the dirt we ordered in place around the property, then some time for down time, and getting the seals mailed out for the Loader Cylinder. I have to say, all you guys are excellent to bounce ideas off of here at Tractorbynet.

 

[California]

Mine is a "Little Tractor." So its on a much smaller scale than what most folk here ...local cylinder rebuild shops would not do "Small Stuff" like this. Would have gladly paid $400 [for] Drop off and pick up. ... its got to be a huge market in small hydraulic local repair.

I'm surprised. My Yanmars (see my sig photo below) are in the same size and age category as your Shibaura/Ford. The local hydraulics & bearings specialty shop here is doing a booming business. They treat me same as the real farmer - and regular customer - rushing in wild-eyed demanding RIGHT NOW service because his expensive equipment went down unexpectedly and he has a crew standing idle while he can't get his grape allotment to the vintner within the window of time they designated for him so the grapes will rot as the day warms up.

Maybe the farm equipment around here is smaller in general than where you are. Much of the ag here is vineyards and orchards, as well as livestock ranching with haying and trucking. And we likely have as much or more weekend (or retired) hobby farms being an hour from San Francisco, so plenty of small or elderly tractors like yours and mine.

I asked the counter lady how often they get a customer who roars in shouting he needs seal replaced or a hose duplicated Right Now!!! She grinned and said "Oh, about twice a day".

 

[Richard]

It's simpler to leave the cylinder in place while getting the end cap off so the pin at the end takes the force.

^^This^^

If you have threaded ends, leave it in place while you fight with the wrench, this way you have TWO "hands" holding it while you fight the nut.

When done, put it back with loose threads (but start them), put in place and use the same hands again to hold it while you tighten it down.

My caps are easily accessible so I ended up using a large pipe wrench with a cheater bar to snug it down (and to remove it).