DIY Remote Hydraulics

[BirdBob]

I am hoping that someone out there can help me out. I have a Kubota L3430. Last year on this forum I found a terrific description of how to build your own adaptor plate that installs in the location where Kubota uses for the optional rear remotes.
I have been looking for this description for the past couple of days now without success. (I gave the printout to my first machinist who moved, and now found another who is willing to build the plate for me.)
From what I remember, the description involved tig welding a couple of nipples into the metal block and running an in- and an out- hose to the rear of the tractor where they connected together with quick connects to form a loop. When you needed to run your implement (in my case a cement mixer dump cylinder), you simply split the loop and ran hoses to your implement.
This simple solution would work the best for my situation and I am hoping that someone remembers the post that I am talking about and can send it to me or attach it here. Thanks, Bob

 

[fixit]

I don't know about the kubota but on my iseki

to add the rear remote i cut the high pressure pipe from the pump to the rear

axle then added a changeover valve so that i could select three point arms

Or rear remote then plumbed the return from the remote valve to the oil fill

cap on the rear axle case and turned up an adaptor on the lathe to fit in the

filler hole and the return hose screwed in the side of the adaptor

in my case i only wanted a single acting remote for a tipping trailer so i use

an open center valve that was nice and cheap

As i used compression fittings it was an easy mod as well once i had decided

how to go about it and how to fit the changeover valve without needing to

get more steel line

 

[HydroTek]

I am hoping that someone out there can help me out. I have a Kubota L3430. Last year on this forum I found a terrific description of how to build your own adaptor plate that installs in the location where Kubota uses for the optional rear remotes.
I have been looking for this description for the past couple of days now without success. (I gave the printout to my first machinist who moved, and now found another who is willing to build the plate for me.)
From what I remember, the description involved tig welding a couple of nipples into the metal block and running an in- and an out- hose to the rear of the tractor where they connected together with quick connects to form a loop. When you needed to run your implement (in my case a cement mixer dump cylinder), you simply split the loop and ran hoses to your implement.
This simple solution would work the best for my situation and I am hoping that someone remembers the post that I am talking about and can send it to me or attach it here. Thanks, Bob

You would need a control valve, or as soon as your cylinder gets to the end of it's stroke, the system would go on relief pressure. I have mounted a two spool valve near the right hand roll bar, and hooked into the tractor like you describe. Works fine and you get two sets of couplers to hook implements to.
.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

If you have a loader on the tractor it would be easier to tap the block under the right foot board just in front of the hydraulic filter that feeds the loader. In that area you have the out from pump, return to tank and the power beyond going back to rear 3 point hydraulics.

David Kb7uns

 

[BirdBob]

Thanks all...
David, my tractor spends about 80% of its life gathering firewood and I often bottom out in ruts and downed trees, so I would rather not hook into the front unless I cannot find the post regarding making the adaptor plate (which would keep everything high on the tractor.
Fixit, you are very close to my intent.
Hydrotek, yes...but my intent is to mount the spool valve right beside the cement mixer drum for more control (I might be the only person and need one hand on a wheelbarrow and the other on the valve)
So while I appreciate the advise...I am still looking for that original post describing how to make the adapter plate for the Kubota optional rear hydraulic.
Thanks again, Bob

 

[kennyd]

Bob, I remember that post as well and just tried to search for it but could not find it. Do you remember any "key" words that may help? I tried "machine" and "machining"

Is this plate not available from Kubota?

 

[BirdBob]

Thanks Kennyd, I thought maybe I was going more crazy. Lets see....I know that the adapter plate that he made was out of aluminum, and so he tig welded the nipples in. I think the nipples were NPT threads? He had to engrave o-ring channels around the two (inlet, outlet) ports on the adapter plate. And the two hydraulic hoses stuck out the rear of the tractor where you would normally have the remotes, except he used a male and female quick connect to hook them together when no implement was being used (to keep the fluid "loop" flowing). Plus, I think he might have had a couple pictures attached to the post...because I remember seeing a pic of the outlet hose, elbow, female QC, male QC, elbow, and then the inlet hose disappearing back under the seat. Oh...and he did this on a Kubota.
Thanks for the help. Although I've listened and gotten a lot of great ideas and fixes on this website...I'm new to trying to navigate and have a hard time searching (when I searched for TIG...it gave me a ton of posts in the welding sub-forum)

 

[kennyd]

"TIG" didn't help and I tried "manifold" also...When searching the default is "Search in all open forums" on the lower right of the search window, you can select what specific forum you want to search in as well.

 

[ch47dpilot]

I think I found it!!! http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/30541-rear-hydraulic-kubotas-less-expensive.html. I agree with what 5030 says about half way down on page 1. I also think the factory system requires you to plumb a special fill cap for the low pressure return line. The block on the case is only for the pressure and power beyond lines. I'm personally going to "T" into the FEL block under your right foot. I have the concern you have since my tractor is used a lot to cut new trails through brush and gets smacked a lot from underneath. Don't have a plan on how but I'm going to make a skid plate for that block and also for the fuel filter on my L3400. I lost the filter one day backing over some partially cut brush/trees. It took me a little to figure out why the tractor just stopped and wouldn't start. During my walk around scratching my head I saw the puddle of diesel, it completely took the filter off. Here is a great thread on how to connect to FEL: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/187948-instructions-add-extra-spools-l2800.html. I'm going to put the hydraulics in the rear unlike the thread. It's going to be a little harder since all the connections will be at the block and there is little room with filter and all.

 

[Cidertom]

I know this isn't exactly what you are/were looking for, but it might give you some ideas if nothing else. It is my modification for an additional control on a jd. There is a huge amount of premade base plates out there that can be fitted almost anywhere.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...g/206320-6th-selective-control-valve-4-a.html

 

[BirdBob]

Thanks to everyone, you guys are great. Anyhow, I couldn't find the exact article...but did find a similar on a british forum.
Here is what I did.
First, I removed the cover where the optional hydraulic block would be installed.

My brother-in-law (a toolmaker) took a bunch of measurements of the inlet and outlet ports and the location of the three previously unused bolt holes. He then manufactured an adapter block out of a chunk of scrap aluminum that was laying around his shop.
The reason that it is so tall is because he staggered the inlet and outlet in order to increase the wall thickness between the two ports. (he looked up the hydraulic pressure for my machine and even took into account the nipple threads...that must be why the original article talked about TIG welding the nipples in place)

He machined out an O-Ring channel around each port...and if my memory serves me correctly...he left .015" of the rings protruding from the channels. He said this was more than is typically needed, so he squared off the channels instead of the normal rounded ones in order to provide some room for the rings to expand into.

He did not feel positive about the port locations on his adapter plate, so he suggested that I install a couple of dowel pins and verify that everything would line up correctly. (I didn't have the correct size dowels, so I simply cut off some old drill bits)

Everything lined up perfectly. So I chased out the bolt hole threads (they had a little bit of rust nodules in them)

Then I bought some new 8mmX50mm 1.25 thread allen head bolts and installed the adapter plate, tightened up the hose connections, and checked for leaks.

All that I wanted to do at this point was to create a hydraulic "loop" that I could hook into. I know that I cannot dead-head this loop...it is not as convienient as factory rear remotes...But here is a picture of the hoses at the rear of the tractor, hooked together with quick connectors.

And finally, a picture of the adapter plate installed. (I know that the picture is not clear enough for you to read...but my brother-in-law even etched the O-ring part number and dimensions into the adapter plate.)

Now I need to put together the plumbing for a control valve and "dump" cylinder for my cement mixer.

Oh...for those of you wondering.....the Total price for the adapter plate....One case of beer.

 

[ch47dpilot]

Did you ever figure out what the 2 lines are? power beyond systems use 3(pressure,return, PwrBeyond). I'm assuming that these are the pressure and PB(or high pressure return) so it would make sense that you'll have to plum the low pressure return line somehow. Any ideas.

 

[sboyte]

Hate to bump a thread this old. Wondering if something can be done on a JD 3038e for less than the 1k that dealers want for the rears? Anyone have pics of the connections on the factory setup for the rears on this tractor?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Hate to bump a thread this old. Wondering if something can be done on a JD 3038e for less than the 1k that dealers want for the rears? Anyone have pics of the connections on the factory setup for the rears on this tractor?

Go to JD parts and look it up. Shows the lines, & valves, the complete rear remote system.

 

[J_J]

Hate to bump a thread this old. Wondering if something can be done on a JD 3038e for less than the 1k that dealers want for the rears? Anyone have pics of the connections on the factory setup for the rears on this tractor?

If you are handy with a wrench and know basic hyd, you can purchase and install a remote unit.

You should decide what attachments you want to operate and the select a valve that will provide the functions you need.

For instance, if you are thinking T-N-T, then you want at least a two spool valve with one or two spool float.

If you are thinking log splitter, then you might choose a spool with detent.

Can you do it for less. Most definitely.

Ask your questions, and someone will answer.

 

[sboyte]

I've got a set of a set of rears on an IMT 542 Deluxe that I doubt I'll ever use again and the tractor is waiting for me to have the time and money to rebuild. It has two levers and four connections, in very broad terms does that mean it is basically the same thing as the kit from JD?

 

[J_J]

A two lever valve will have at least 6 ports.

Is the valve a monoblock valve, meaning that is is self contained? Similar to this.

2 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB21BB5C1 DA VALVE