Rustyiron
Super Member
The formula is different but they make a foam for "fireblocking" around pipes & such.
DIY spray foam sources for pole barn? Anyony have issues with foam?
- Thread starter bob112
- Start date
- Views: 8345
If you don't use closed cell then you're going to need to install a vapor barrier. The proper foam can be your vapor barrier and is a better way to go.
Metal building panels have the valley's/ridges and because of that air is going to leak into the building everywhere and heat will escape also. Bugs will get into the walls, too. The foam will seal all those ridges and openings making for a nice tight building. That means its going to cost you less to heat the building. You'll have a warmer/cooler building. They stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. My pole building is generally 10 degrees warmer then the outside temperature in the winter time and that's with no heat.
Where the top of the walls meet the ceiling is one of the main areas of heat loss. That get's sealed with foam and eliminates the heat loss problem in a normally problematic area.
To save money, you can foam your walls and do a vapor barrier/fiberglass in the ceiling.
Not all foam is the same. Don't automatically take whatever foam your installer offers. Do you research. I found a better foam than what my installer normally used. Per my request he used the better foam at no cost difference to me. Turns out he also liked the foam so well that he said he was going to switch to it.
Foam costs more but you will save on heating the building and you will have a more comfortable and quieter building. I wouldn't attempt a DIY install. Have the truck come out with the proper equipment and have it done right.
Metal building panels have the valley's/ridges and because of that air is going to leak into the building everywhere and heat will escape also. Bugs will get into the walls, too. The foam will seal all those ridges and openings making for a nice tight building. That means its going to cost you less to heat the building. You'll have a warmer/cooler building. They stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. My pole building is generally 10 degrees warmer then the outside temperature in the winter time and that's with no heat.
Where the top of the walls meet the ceiling is one of the main areas of heat loss. That get's sealed with foam and eliminates the heat loss problem in a normally problematic area.
To save money, you can foam your walls and do a vapor barrier/fiberglass in the ceiling.
Not all foam is the same. Don't automatically take whatever foam your installer offers. Do you research. I found a better foam than what my installer normally used. Per my request he used the better foam at no cost difference to me. Turns out he also liked the foam so well that he said he was going to switch to it.
Foam costs more but you will save on heating the building and you will have a more comfortable and quieter building. I wouldn't attempt a DIY install. Have the truck come out with the proper equipment and have it done right.
forgeblast
Elite Member
If its all open why not foam it green, its a diy site. It comes in two parts like bbq tanks and easy to use. I sprayed most of my basement with a kit. really helped.
TCJatko
Platinum Member
I think the fire blocking foam is the same formula but simply a different color so inspectors can see that pipes and other intrusions have been properly sealed.
KubotaToy
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2011
- Messages
- 444
- Location
- SE Tennessee
- Tractor
- Kubota LX331HSDC (hers) and L45 (mine), RTV1100 (hers)
I did not read the entire thread but I had the interior of my 34-40' goat barn spray foamed with 2-3" of closed cell foam. In the 4 winters since, it has cut the heating cost maybe 20%. Biggest advantage was the sealing properties not R value, i.e. - no drafts. Pain in the butt to make repairs on foamed walls.
Last edited:
varmint
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2003
- Messages
- 2,572
- Location
- Northern Maryland
- Tractor
- Kubota B8200, then a Kubota L3130 HST, now a Kubota L3400 HST
Sorry, I didn't read thru the whole thread, but a several things to consider: fire blocking foam is not the same as insulating foam. I have read that there can be issues with foam on metal and corrosion, and the fumes from burning are deadly. Some research is in order before you buy any foam. It's pricey, but in projects I have been involved in, it sure insulates/seals well. And like MNBobcat said, you are probably going to find it is cost effective for a large installation to have a commercial installer do it.
For best bang for your buck, I would be sure to put at least 4" of rigid foam board under your floor slab at the perimeters, and 2" under the rest of the slab. You can work in 50 degree air, but cold feet are a problem.
For best bang for your buck, I would be sure to put at least 4" of rigid foam board under your floor slab at the perimeters, and 2" under the rest of the slab. You can work in 50 degree air, but cold feet are a problem.