DIY water well drilling rig

[Sysop]

I try to stay on the topic of the thread, but that's about it. I try to convey the most useful info I know, whether it is welcome by the OP or not. Someone else may come along and find it useful even if OP doesn't...

The way I see it, the more holes you poke into the local aquifer, the more chance you have of contaminating it somehow and causing issues in existing wells. It is especially a bad idea when there are more cost effective and less damaging solutions available.

Another thought: If the apartment is for a rental, all the more reason to keep costs down. Running a deep line 400' would cost (at the high end) 10% of what a new 180' well and all associated equipment is going to cost. Dropping a new well, it will take decades before the apartment will see profit.

 

[speedbump]

Even the professional well drillers had a "first" well and Im willing to spend the money trying and learning.

Most Well Drillers grew up in the business and learned from their Fathers and Grandfathers. They didn't just start on a whim.

 

[airbiscuit]

If you are determined to give it a go - I say have at it! The TBN members will give you answers to your questions, things to be wary of, and alternatives (running a separate line from your existing well).

If you do give it a go, be sure to update us with pics and text. As much as we like giving advice, we also like to live vicariously through others!

 

[Cord]

How would you drive the casing?

 

[Ehanson]

I had a 180 foot well dug 3 years ago on the same property. The top 30 feet is sand. No hard rock. I watched them drill the first one and they did hit a small rock at one point otherwise it was smooth sailing. He did say he used all the bentonite he had with. He also said he hit some decent water at 40 feet but knew to keep going. A fact that I found interesting since he was charging 30 bucks a foot. At 180 we have all the water we could use. The new well is 300-400 feet away from the first one. The well I need to drill is for a small apartment for 1 person. Dont need much flow. I understand that Im inexperienced and it may not work. I have been researching it for a month or so sourcing materials and parts. I didnt ask for opinions on whether or not I should do it, I obviously already am past that point since Im on here looking for help sizing a hydraulic motor. Even the professional well drillers had a "first" well and Im willing to spend the money trying and learning. If I pull it off I will be thousands ahead. That and I wouldn't be opposed to putting in a geothermal furnace then either.

You took the words right out of my mouth, Geothermal, I have thought about building a rig to drop some holes 150 feet or so to get to 50 degree ground heat and capture the heat! That would be sweet, If you are using a rotary, you could build a crude gearbox with some type of chuck to drive the stem? I am going to see how the big rotary blasthole drills achieve this, as there are some fairly close by at the largest copper mine in Canada near here. Instead of a gearbox, why not an old truck transmission driving chain and sprockets.
I will be watching this one, please keep us updated.

 

[bigdeano]

How would you drive the casing?

I think PVC casing would be the way to go for a do it yourselfer. Drill the hole big enough so it drops in with enough clearance so you can pour cement or bentonite around the outside to seal it at the proper level. The OP should read up on well construction because it has to be done correctly to prevent contamination of the aquifer.

Where I am only licensed well drillers are allowed to drill wells to make sure they're done correctly.

 

[EddieWalker]

This is where the numbers get in the way. Best pump is a submersible. You need the casing big enough for the pump to fit inside it. I've heard of pumps that will fit inside a four inch pipe, but some pumps require a six inch pipe. Drilling a hole that big is why it's cheaper to hire it done. The machine doing the drilling, along with the equipment needed costs six figures. I've seen them for sale used for $300,000 but couldn't say if that was top of the line or a bargain.

 

[Sprinklerman]

Look around for an older used dirrectional drill rig . They come in all sizes . I am pretty sure that you could modify it to drill vertically , or at least have a bunch of parts . You may even be able to get drill rod and bits with one .

Vermeer D6 Navigator Horizontal Drill RUNS EXC. LOW HOURS! 6x6 Boring Machine | eBay

 

[JRobyn]

My B-I-L's heavy blast hole drills (Ingersol), used, in good, serviceable condition, ran up around $1mil.

 

[Stonefox]

How are you removing the cuttings from the bottom of the hole? Cable tool does this with a clam shell on the end of the cable, rotary bit using drilling fluid to bring the cuttings to the surface via the annular space between the drill pipe and hole. If using a drilling mud/fluid you will need pumps to move the fluid through the system.

 

[airbiscuit]

Saw this on Ebay - might give you some ideas

This Tractor Rig Is Very Tough, Powerful, And Easy To Use, It Features:

High Torque Hydraulic Drive Motor

High Volume Industrial Water Swivel

Our Water Swivel Seals Are Ten Times As Large And Last Ten Times Longer Than All The Other Swivels Offered In This Class.

Adjustable "Lock-Tight" Slip (Only Available On Our Rigs, We Designed It)

The Beam Angle Can Be Adjusted With Your Tractors Draw Bar

Drill Bits: Our Bits Are Made With Replaceable Carbide Teeth, Very Aggressive, They Will Tear Right Through Clays, Gravel, Sand, And Some Light Sandstone, Hard Rock Formations Require The Use Of Optional Roller Cone Or Diamond Bits.

For More Information On The BoreMaster Hydraulic Operation, Please Visit Our Web Site

This Auction Includes:

PTO Powered, Including Pump, Reservoir, Lines, Ready To Drill

PTO Pump: 540 RPM Pump

(Requires : 1-3/8 6 Tooth Spline Shaft)

Hydraulic Motors: 22 c.i.

Torque: 5200 (in. lb's.)

Double Filter Protection

Primary Hydraulic Filter: 20 Microns

Length Of Stroke: 8 ft.

Pull-Up Capacity: 3000 lb's. Direct Hydraulic

Down Pressure: 3000 PSI Direct Hydraulic

2 Spool Four Way Control Valve

Built-In Hydraulic Fluid Reservoir

Drill Stem: 200 ft. Reinforced High Strength (With Wide Thread Tooled Joints)

Drill Stem Guide / Slip Assembly

Mud Pump: Pull-Start (16000 GPH - 3" Full Trash Pump)

Swivel: High Volume, High Pressure, Rated At 750 PSI

Drill Bits: 2 Bits Total 6-1/2", 9-1/2" (Suitable For Drilling Clay, Gravel, And Some Light Sandstone, Hard Rock, Bed Rock Requires Optional Roller Cone / (Tri-Cone Bits), or Diamond Bits

Pressure Hose: 200 PSI, With Three Way By-Pass Valve

Suction Hose With Strainer

Operational / Maintenance Guides, Well Drilling Manual, Tips and Help Guide

Retail Price: $7,684.00

 

[TheGoose]

My guess is that IF you ever make a well that produces usable water that $10-12k will seem like a bargain. I understand about wanting to do things yourself though.

Fwiw that water at 40' is probably very poor quality and may be more affected by seasonal conditions.

We drill a 7" hole for 4 inch casing.

Good luck.