DK 40 Starter Question

[coobie]

I leave all my batteries on my equipment on battery tenders/minders over then winter months.I usually replace them very 5-6 years not matter what.Always had great luck with Deka batteries.The only interstate battery purchased was in my daily driver pickup 2006 ford f-150 with the 5.4 triton motor.Layed out $154 bucks and it only lasted 2 years max.One would agree I could have purchased a DUD.

 

[coobie]

Interstingly, the original battery in my tractor was an Interstate, and was date coded 2010. I replaced it about 2 months ago. I think batteries are kind of a crap shoot. There are good and bad ones in all brands.

James, I believe my 2012 Kioti also came with interstate battery also.Changed it in 2016 just in case.I agree I think batteries can be a crap shoot.

 

[johnturrentine]

Hey vet, sounds very similar to an issue I had a few years ago on a dk40se hst. Dealer came out three times, replaced cylinoids, and finally sold me a battery that I didn’t need. Issue kept recurring. I finally figured my problem out. From memory, it seems there were two wires connected to the hot side of the battery. The smaller gauge wire goes to the starter and was just clipped to it and worked itself loose often allowing just enough juice to make a little noise when trying to start. Push the clip back on and starts great.

 

[northcreek2624]

Bendix shemndix

Ritchesvs was on the money. Glad i did not go spend yet another $100 on starter.

I was jumping starter the wrong way. At least I did not fry anything.

Key off jump + and spade terminal cranks like a champ

Key on jump + and spade: Starts right up.

Looks like I need a new relay. I believe there is an identical relay on the firewall that goes to glow plug?

Don't need that in Florida but if a relay is all of say $20 I'll go get one.

In the interim I'll keep jumper wire in the DK

Thanks everybody for your help.
Lessons learned
1. Don't buy a battery you don't need
2. Don't buy a starter you don't need
Don't jump starter the wrong way.

Thanks again.

If your relay fails again you may need a starter after all. A relay can fail like any component but, if it's asked to pass more current than design it will fail quickly. In HS I worked in a starter repair shop and half of the starters that came in for repair would have a brand new solenoid/relay on them, showing that the quick fix didn't last long.
You did the right thing, relays are cheap, just be prepared so it won't let you down when you need it...Mike.

 

[ritcheyvs]

If your relay fails again you may need a starter after all. A relay can fail like any component but, if it's asked to pass more current than design it will fail quickly. In HS I worked in a starter repair shop and half of the starters that came in for repair would have a brand new solenoid/relay on them, showing that the quick fix didn't last long.
You did the right thing, relays are cheap, just be prepared so it won't let you down when you need it...Mike.

The failed relay in question is the small cube relay on the firewall that switches the current to the starter solenoid. There have been many reports of failures for these relays so it's a logical thing to check. I don't recall any reports of actual starter or starter solenoid failures. As you note, these small relays can fail "open" if the contacts are badly burned or pitted or they can fail closed (much worse) if the contacts weld themselves together. But fail open is the typical problem with the starter relay or the identical stop relay. The stop relay provides a high current (like 25 amps) to the pull coil of the stop solenoid but only for one second. After that, power from the key switch keeps the stop solenoid retracted until the engine is switched off. At that point (no power to the stop solenoid) a spring extends the plunger which forces the injection pump rack to the zero-fuel position.

 

[northcreek2624]

The failed relay in question is the small cube relay on the firewall that switches the current to the starter solenoid. There have been many reports of failures for these relays so it's a logical thing to check. I don't recall any reports of actual starter or starter solenoid failures. As you note, these small relays can fail "open" if the contacts are badly burned or pitted or they can fail closed (much worse) if the contacts weld themselves together. But fail open is the typical problem with the starter relay or the identical stop relay. The stop relay provides a high current (like 25 amps) to the pull coil of the stop solenoid but only for one second. After that, power from the key switch keeps the stop solenoid retracted until the engine is switched off. At that point (no power to the stop solenoid) a spring extends the plunger which forces the injection pump rack to the zero-fuel position.

That's a good point. I now see that in this case the relay in question would only see the current of the solenoid and not the starter motor. In the days that I recalled, the combination solenoid/relay was the only relay from the key switch to starter motor...Mike.