k0ua
Epic Contributor
That was my thinking. Mine is slick as melted butter at this time, but if it started to getting dodgy, I would try to find out why and get out the spray can first thing.
DK40- wont shift into low or high range?
- Thread starter kantuckid
- Start date
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That was my thinking. Mine is slick as melted butter at this time, but if it started to getting dodgy, I would try to find out why and get out the spray can first thing.
northcreek2624
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2001
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- 483
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- Lake View,N.Y.(WNY)
- Tractor
- KIOTI DK40(2002)) Jacobsen 628D AWD Turfcat
Yeah, something IS wrong....the "wimpy lever" . Of course you would always lube first, that's "DIY 101". Then if that does't work, what? split the tractor? You can't assume that because the tractor came that way it's the "end of story". Even International Harvester put out a tractor that almost ran them out of business and had to go back to the drawing board.
As I said in my earlier post, the creeper lever which is similar was reinforced at the factory. I mean you are just trying to mesh gears, it's not brain surgery.....Mike.
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DK35vince
Super Member
Like I said, my high/low range has always shifted easy, and I lube it occasionally to keep it that way.
I was using the tractor today and shifted between high/low range multiple times I wanted to see if it could be shifted using 1 finger.
I was able to shift high/low multiple times with one finger every time. Shifts that easy.
I was using the tractor today and shifted between high/low range multiple times I wanted to see if it could be shifted using 1 finger.
I was able to shift high/low multiple times with one finger every time. Shifts that easy.
kco
Veteran Member
Although this is an old thread, I'll post a solution I just found that fixed the "flakey shifting" problem on my 2011 DK35SE HST.
Over the last couple of months I had an increasingly difficult time shifting from Medium to High range. I tried lubricating everything as noted in this, and other threads. Today I could not shift to High at all. The shift lever would hit the front stop on the tractor frame before it had moved the gear far enough to engage in High.
Taking a closer look I noticed the spring pin that attaches the shift arm to the shaft that goes into the transmission was protruding to the rear. I used a hardwood board and hammer to push the pin back in, and that fixed it. I am fortunate to have found it before the pin completely worked its way out.
A pin was also protruding a bit toward the front of the assembly, and I thought it might be broken. However, it appears to be a spring pin inside another spring pin shown as parts 2 and 5 in this diagram from Michigan Iron:
Parts Finder Michigan Iron & Equipment Morrice, MI (855) 265-459
The inside pin was wobbling around inside the outer pin. It may also explain an intermittent I starting problem where the range selector showed being in Neutral but the starter would not engage. Perhaps it caused the range potentiometer in the control circuitry to send out a flakey Neutral-range signal (there are two values), thus preventing starting.
Anyhow, if range shifting is flakey another possibility might be the spring pins on the shift lever shaft.
ADDITION TO POST: In reading my post the forum's suggestions led me to this other post where K0UA had the same suggestion:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/319454-dk40-high-range-not-working-post3863176.html#post3863176
Over the last couple of months I had an increasingly difficult time shifting from Medium to High range. I tried lubricating everything as noted in this, and other threads. Today I could not shift to High at all. The shift lever would hit the front stop on the tractor frame before it had moved the gear far enough to engage in High.
Taking a closer look I noticed the spring pin that attaches the shift arm to the shaft that goes into the transmission was protruding to the rear. I used a hardwood board and hammer to push the pin back in, and that fixed it. I am fortunate to have found it before the pin completely worked its way out.
A pin was also protruding a bit toward the front of the assembly, and I thought it might be broken. However, it appears to be a spring pin inside another spring pin shown as parts 2 and 5 in this diagram from Michigan Iron:
Parts Finder Michigan Iron & Equipment Morrice, MI (855) 265-459
The inside pin was wobbling around inside the outer pin. It may also explain an intermittent I starting problem where the range selector showed being in Neutral but the starter would not engage. Perhaps it caused the range potentiometer in the control circuitry to send out a flakey Neutral-range signal (there are two values), thus preventing starting.
Anyhow, if range shifting is flakey another possibility might be the spring pins on the shift lever shaft.
ADDITION TO POST: In reading my post the forum's suggestions led me to this other post where K0UA had the same suggestion:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/319454-dk40-high-range-not-working-post3863176.html#post3863176
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Wonder why they just didn't put a hard bolt and castle nut on it to begin with instead of using "spring pins" what we call roll pins. Probably cheaper I guess.
Amvcane
Platinum Member
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- May 24, 2013
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- 661
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- NEPA
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- 2012 Kioti CK35hst tlb; 1988 JD 420; 1990 JD 322; 1987 JD 332; 1985 JD 318; 2010 JD ProGator 2030A;
Kco, glad you got you problem resolved and shared your observations. If you are afraid the rollpins may work their way loose again you may want to thread a wire through the rollpins and twist around the shaft.
It won’t stop the pins from egging out the hole if they are that loose. It will keep them in place though.
It won’t stop the pins from egging out the hole if they are that loose. It will keep them in place though.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
That seems like a good idea.
Coyote machine
Super Member
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- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
KCO, I bolded and underlined the section of text above in your post, and have a question about it.
I too have had issues with shifting with my 2010 DK-40 HST. I notice when I go to start, the range selector will be in the neutral position in the shift slot, but the dash light will read that it is in say 'medium'. So I move the selector to medium in the slot. Then the engine will crank and start as it should. Once started the dash light will flicker between neutral and medium while operating the machine. I've done the 'reset' sequence a number of times as outlined in the workshop manual. That seemed to resolve the problem for a while. More recently, the problem seems to be more constant than not, so I just put the range selector in the medium spot to start, otherwise the starter will lockout as you described. Do you think this is the same situation you were detailing, where the roll pin(s) have allowed the shift mechanism on the trans to indicate a physical misrepresentation of the actual location of the transmission's gear selector? Curious how many hours on your machine?
Thanks for your input and feedback,
CM
kco
Veteran Member
I don't know if the loose pins were causing my intermittent starting problems. However, they seemed to be occurring more frequently as it got harder to shift into High. I guess I'll know if it was related if the intermittent starting problem disappears.
Re: your question about the hours...my tractor is at 1,395 hrs.
kco
Veteran Member
That's an excellent suggestion. I added a wire this afternoon and will keep an closer eye on the roll pins. As K0UA suggests, using two roll pins is a questionable design. I've got my pins back in but they are not completely flush on each side of the collar. If I tap it flush one way the 2-pin assembly slides. So the smaller pin is not completely in the larger pin. I got it fairly close by squeezing the two with channel lock pliers but will align them better when I can get some help. It is an awkward place to work. I can tap the larger pin from the front side with a hammer but need to use a piece of rebar to tap the smaller pin from the rear side. I'll get my neighbour to help so one of us can hold a large hammer against the front side while the other taps the pin from the rear side.
