DK40SE Squeal When Moving in Reverse.

[dourobob]

Excellent idea...
The Service Manual states the first letter is year of manufacture.

H = 2008
I = 2009
J = 2010
K = 2011

Next 3 are the model number.

T65 = DK40
T66 = DK45
S28 = DK50

The remainder is the serial number.


I guess H15 is the DK40(C). So I would decode this as the 38th DK40C made in 2011. Thats strange I received it in November of 2010. I know this came directly from NC it was never on the dealers lot.

Tom

I am just a bit confused (not that it takes much some days).

I took my Identification # from the tractor this morning - sounded like a good idea to see if there is a connection to the "squealers"

Mine # is JH1400036

Having trouble relating this to the guide - that would make my tractor a

2010 Year (I bought it in November 2009)
H1 Model -it is a DK45se HST (No "T66" on the tag)
Serial # 00036 - 36th one of the day?

Hope this might help someone (Tom?, Coyote Machine?, KattyWumpus? or ??) who can make more sense of it than I can.

Bob

 

[Coyote machine]

Durobob,

Maybe the slightly different coding is because you're in Canada, eh?

Otherwise, it's similar coding to TNewburn's, which also has an H instead of the T66 designation. Both of your tractors have cabs yes?
Maybe the 14 is US and 15 is Canada for HST's with cabs.....

 

[tnewbern]

H15 = DK40 CAB
H14 = DK45 CAB

Also the serial number relates to the year not the day.

 

[somguyss]

KIOTI TRACTOR doesn't use the Letter I:confused2:

 

[IslandTractor]

KIOTI TRACTOR doesn't use the Letter I:confused2:

Both the letters I and O are easily confused with 1 and 0(zero). That could be one reason not to use them in serial numbers.

 

[Coyote machine]

While using my tractor yesterday another thought occurred to me and I thought it might be useful for those with the squeal to try the following: See if the squeal occurs when running your tractor at 2500 rpm's or higher, regardless of a load on the loader, forks or whatever you might be using.
It could be interesting to see if at that rpm, or near it, the noise is dissipated or gone completely in either forward or reverse.
My short study yesterday indicates, for my tractor, that the noise seems to be less apparent when at the 2500 rpm level. Note, the squeal was already occurring prior to setting the machine at the higher rpms.

Could those of us who have squeal noise and haven't yet sent in their serial numbers, please do so, so we can continue to log that sequence for study.

 

[tnewbern]

I can say for sure that if I run at high RPM's that the squeal is less. I can run much longer before it sets in and its less pronounced. And no the engine noise is not drowning out the squeal. This was one of the reasons I targeted the low charge pressure so heavily when I found it.

I can also say for sure that my charge pressure is still low around 205 PSI (@ full throttle) at the test port. Sorry I know I said it was up but I must have been on cloud nine with the excitement of no squeal. The pressure is 260-270 at the inlet to the HST which indicates a leak somewhere inside. Don't worry I won't go into this again.

Ever since I added the bypass line I have no squeal. I have put over 20 hours on the tractor since (raking and loading so its significant HST work). Before the bypass this happend in 10 - 15 minutes. I am still waiting for the bolts to see if that is all you need. Looks like another week.

I started using an IR temp gauge to check the HST and hydraulic oil temps. I get about 150 degrees (@ the HST filter) in 80-90 degree weather. That does not sound bad I have heard that 100 over ambient is normal. Has anybody else checked the oil temps?

So J = 2009 and K = 2010 that make sense. The manual stopped at H and (I me the person) improvised from there.

Tom

 

[kattywumpus]

The gauges and fitting I need to perform a pressure test finally arrived. Hope to perform a test next week.

Tnewbern, where’s the test port you’re referring too? Page in the shop manual would be helpfully. Thanks

 

[tnewbern]

Hi Kattywumpus,

Glad to hear you get your test equipment. The test is detailed in the HST section of the service manual. The pages are 5-22, 5-23, and 5-24.

For reference the test ports are located under the left step on the transmission behind the little tool box. There are 2 vertically aligned ports the top is for reverse and the bottom is for forward. These are actually the neutral valves and the charge pressure is read at either when in neutral.

If you use a low pressure guage (500 PSI) to read the charge pressure be sure you don't push the pedal as you will destroy the gauge. A $20 lesson I learned the hard way trying to read the charge pressure in the reverse port while going forward. It worked great right up to the point I let off the pedal to stop and the HST when to break and poped the gauge.

I found that it is best to test the charge pressure with the trans in neutral. This way if you accidentally hit the pedal the HST doesn't build pressure above 400 PSI. With the high pressure gauge you can't realy measure the 255 PSI with any degree of accuracy.

By the way the banjo bolts arrived Monday so I just need to find some time to test the results. I hope to try them before the weekend but don't know if that will happen. The past 2 weeks I was between projects and had the time but not the parts. Funny how that works out.

 

[dourobob]

Glad to see some progress on this one. I have been doing projects for the last couple of weeks (not tractor related) but today, in the rain and with cooler temperatures that @#$% squeal came back with a vengeance after only about 20 minutes. Looking forward to hearing the newest results.