DK45 unresponsive

[rd_macgregor]

I went out to start my DK45SC this afternoon and all seemed normal until I turned the key to engage the starter. It gave a brief sound like the starter was going to kick in as usual, but then all power went off. I have no dash lights, no cabin lights, no flashers, no fan...as far as I can tell nothing is getting power. I last used it on Wednesday evening, at which time it started and ran normally. It has been raining all day today, so I didn't get out to start it until after 3pm. Before it got dark, I did manage to verify that the (one-year-old) battery has power and that the ground is working.
I pulled the cover off the fuse block, but I didn't see anything obviously amiss; also, the fuse diagram didn't suggest a single fuse that could totally de-power everything. My only remaining suspicion is the starter switch itself...but it is too dark to fiddle with it tonight.

Any suggestions (sorry, I can't afford to trade it in on a new replacement for Xmas)?

Bob

 

[llahg]

remove battery terminals from battery and clean them if you have not done so.

 

[Highgear]

Did you try turning the lights on ? If the battery was good I would think the lights would come on . But the switches in Kioti tractors are known to go bad .

 

[DK35vince]

You checked the ground cable where it attaches to the frame ?
I had a bad ground at the frame years ago the same symptoms.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Ordinarily, when I have a low battery or an iffy ground connection, I still get dim dash lights. I don't have a volt meter, but I got a spark with a short piece of wire from the Pos terminal to a bare spot on the frame. I don't think the lights work on my tractor unless the key is on, so a defect in the ignition switch could be the culprit... a job for tomorrow (I can't move round bales by hand very well, so I really need to get it going!!).

 

[woolyAcres]

Is the PTO still engaged from the last time you used it? That would normally prevent it starting. Something simple to check but it doesn't explain the power 'going out'.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I'm pretty sure the PTO was shut down last time I parked it, but I'll double-check in the morning. As you say, though, a safety interlock might prevent engaging the starter, but it shouldn't shut down everything electrical!

 

[PA hayseed]

Just a guess, but maybe the ignition switch. When mine went bad on my old DK, it seemed like it would start, thought it was a dead battery or battery cables/post. That battery lasted 10 years for me, always turned over even in negative temps. Only time it didn't it was when the switch went.

Hope you figure it out, good luck.

 

[LouNY]

I don't know about Kioti but many tractors have a 60-80 amp main fuse in the harness.

 

[Kioti Paul]

The 4 way flashers (& turn signals) do not go through the ignition switch so (in my mind) that eliminates the ign switch being bad. This is a very common problem, & almost always it is a loose / dirty / corroded connection. It is less common, but it does happen that the cable corrodes (under the insulation) at the clamp, or at the eyelet.

I agree with llahg, in that the battery post connectors are (by far) the most common (& easiest to fix) problem. Remove the cables from the posts, make sure the inside surface of the clamps are very clean (shiny is best!) you can take your pocket knife and scrape the inside surface. Make certain the battery posts are VERY clean (scrub them good with a wire brush. Put them back on, make sure the cable clamps actually CLAMP the posts, sometimes the ends of the clamps (where the bolts go through) come together, & no matter how much you tighten the bolt, it will not make a TIGHT connection to the post. After tightening the clamp, make sure you cannot (by hand) twist the clamp on the post.

When removing the cables, disconnect the Neg cable first & reconnect the Neg cable last. (just to reduce the chances of having your wrench short the battery)

Without a voltmeter, or a test light, it would be a pretty long explanation on how to troubleshoot the problem. Realistically, there are only 4 connections (or 2 cables) that are likely to be your problem. If you are absolutely sure the battery, and battery connections are good, & IF you are not afraid to burn a blister on one, or more of your fingers, let me know & I will go through the procedure.

Good Luck!

 

[ritcheyvs]

If everything is dead, it's either the main fuse, battery. or a battery cable/terminal.

The main fuse is taped to the wire bundle near the starter and usually wrapped in tape. Check it.

You can test the battery/cable with the brute-force starter test. Be sure you are in neutral before trying this. If the starter cranks good during this test, the battery and battery cables are OK. If it doesn't crank with vigor, dig deeper into the battery and cables.

If you hope to diagnose electrical problems you really need a multimeter (volt meter) and to learn how to use a schematic for diagnosis testing. Sparks mean almost nothing.

 

[grsthegreat]

I had the exact same thing happen on mine this summer. Had my wife turn key while i jostled battery wires. It turned out to be the positive battery cable. I ended up having to add 2 washers to the bolt and tighten it down real good. Has not happened since.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I had the exact same thing happen on mine this summer.

Well, I had cleaned and inspected the ground, but since I've never before experienced an issue with the positive side, I was lazy and just left it. When I saw your note, I rushed back out and did it right...and everything lit up and the engine started up just fine!

Thanks to all who replied to my plea for the diverse suggestions; now, if something like this happens again and battery wire maintenance doesn't do the trick, I'll have a bunch of "Plan B" alternatives waiting in the wings.

I also will look for a good sale on a replacement for my dead VOM, so I can do some electrical/electronic diagnostics when I really need to.

This turned out to be an embarassingly basic issue; I'll try to post something really seriously wrong next time!!

Bob

 

[JimR]

Well, I had cleaned and inspected the ground, but since I've never before experienced an issue with the positive side, I was lazy and just left it. When I saw your note, I rushed back out and did it right...and everything lit up and the engine started up just fine!

Thanks to all who replied to my plea for the diverse suggestions; now, if something like this happens again and battery wire maintenance doesn't do the trick, I'll have a bunch of "Plan B" alternatives waiting in the wings.

I also will look for a good sale on a replacement for my dead VOM, so I can do some electrical/electronic diagnostics when I really need to.

This turned out to be an embarassingly basic issue; I'll try to post something really seriously wrong next time!!

Bob

Remove your battery terminals and put grease on them and re-install them. This will keep them from getting corroded in the future. I have been doing this for over 40 years on vehicles and have yet to have one fail for that reason. My dad taught me that trick.

 

[grsthegreat]

Glad to hear you got it up and running.

 

[coobie]

Another happy ending.Merry christmas..

 

[Haneyrm]

I had a similar problem recently. Only way I could start mine was to push clutch and hold key in start position. While holding key in start position, very slowly rotate PTO knob towards the engaged position. PTO switch was faulty. Full PTO off and the tractor would not crank. Slight rotation and it came to life. Pulled my hair out trying to figure that one out.