Do I need an L-39?

   / Do I need an L-39? #1  

otus_branch

Silver Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2005
Messages
118
Location
The NC High Country
Tractor
BCS 850
Hi folks,

After lurking, hungrily reading, and occasionally others' questions, I've got a question for the TBN crowd. As is typical, it's a "what do I need?" question, but I've managed to narrow down my range of choices some ahead of time. So here goes...

-----Area-----
- Western North Carolina - Mountainous, but tractor will not be used on any ridiculously steep slopes.

-----Properties-----
- Two parcels, approximately 18 miles apart. Trailering between the two will be a necessity once or twice a month, but tractor will spend most of its time at the larger parcel. Tow vehicle will be a Chevy 2500 Duramax/Allison, and I would like to stay well within its rated limits (12,000 lbs. I believe, but I would prefer to tow 10,000 lbs. or less) One property is 5 acres and the other is 14 acres. Each is a mix of fields, woods, and scrub that will be reclaimed for either agriculture or forestry, though the 5-acre parcel is pretty much under control after 4 years of BCS tractor work. Some livestock (goats, pigs, pastured poultry) will figure into the equation later, so the big tractor will be used for hauling around portable electric fencing and hoophouse-type-shelters on skids.

-----Primary tasks-----
- Improving and maintaing approximately 7/10 of a mile of gravel roads, plus helping the neighbors maintain another half mile or so. Neighbors are fairly well-equipped themselves, with a Kobelco excavator, a couple of Ford 4000's, and an older 2wd John Deere ag tractor between them. Improvements needed on my own roads include widening a low, wet section of road and adding drainage ditches, plus installing several culverts. The neighbor with the Kobelco is unfortunately NOT near the parcel that needs the most improvements.

-Improving drainage around an old farmhouse. It's built right on damp ground, and the sills at the back of the house have rotted. I'm thinking that with the L-39 or similar TLB setup, I could cut a small backsloped terrace behind the house (maybe 15' wide x 50' long), and then dig a trench/french drain along the back edge of the terrace that would run approximately another 20 yards to a creek along the side of the house.

-Deepening and cleaning-out said creek to flow a little faster past the side of the house.

-Developing several springs, including dropping-in reservoir tanks, and removing some old concrete tanks that have decayed beyond repair.

-Trenching for water lines, plus misc. underground electric, etc.

-Skidding logs out as we do single-tree or small stand logging to improve the forested areas and make a little $$ from firewood.

-Excavating & moving many 3' - 5' boulders that are currently in the way of some of the market gardens.

-Moving Mulch & making Compost - Chicken litter and sawdust and bark mulch are all readily available around here, but I'm tired of the fork-and-wheelbarrow method. And it takes lots of mulch to be able to control weeds organically.

-Then (once all the above projects are finished - HA!), preparing and working more ground for market gardens on a scale larger than is practical with the BCS equipment.

-----Models considered for these jobs-----
Kubota L-39 - I've been drooling over L-35's and L-48's for years now, but wishing there was something in-between. Then voila! my wish comes true this year. In addition to the TLB package, I'm thinking that a TnT setup, along with a 6' heavy box blade and a 7' straight blade would at least get me started on the road and drainage work. Tiller, wood-splitter and other toys to be added later as money permits.

I've also looked at JD 110's, Power Tracs, smaller 4wd ag tractors plus renting an excavator, etc., but nothing seems to be able to touch the L-39's versatility. I really like the 1-seat setup, compared to the Kioti TLB's and other brands. There are a number of Kubota dealers within an hour's drive of me, so parts and service options look good, though I need to do more visiting sand test-driving.

We've had good luck with several heavy equipment operators in the area we hired to do larger terracing/excavating/dozer work, but the above-listed projects are really smaller than they are interested in. Plus, I want seat time, but i work full-time, and money is limited enough that I want to save funds for a tractor purchase rather than continue to rent/hire.

What do y'all think? Can the L-39 really tackle these types of earth-moving and road tasks, plus work as an ag tractor? Should I look at any other alternatives more closely?

thanks,
-otus
 
   / Do I need an L-39? #2  
The L-39 is getting a lot of good marks from all that I read and hear. Also its what you have been looking for, something in between. A few more years down the road you may even want to have 2 tractors, the L-39 and another aroud 30-35 HP.
 
   / Do I need an L-39? #3  
Otus,

I just found this post. Not sure if you are still looking for input or not. I'm surprised there wasnt' more input from the gang.
 
   / Do I need an L-39? #4  
All I can say getting parts is a long wait for the L39.

I had a defective valve in the loader and it has been at dealer for 4 weeks. They said parts came in last Friday. time to give them another call.

I will let you know what I think of my L-39 once the laoder is fixed.

I wish the L39 had about 50 hp as I work on hills and the machine is 7200 Lbs. as I have it equipped.
 
   / Do I need an L-39?
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks to Jim & Mike for the recent responses! Mike, I hope your parts come in quickly & things get working soon. Nothing worse than expensive machinery that fails to perform...

I am indeed still 'looking,' though this summer has been busy enough that I have not made any time to even visit a dealership between my first post and now. Finances are also such that my realistic purchase time is probably early 2006. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

But input from L-39 owners is very welcome, as well as input from owners of other machines that might be capable of the tasks outlined above. They all still need doing, with more tasks added to the list all of the time... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Jim, what tasks do you find yourself using the lighter tractor (a 3130 yes?) for? In my case, I will keep the BCS as my lighter tractor, and that will be the machine used for mowing and tight-area work, while the L-39 or whatever I wind up buying will be the machine for loader work, excavation, and other tasks when two wheels will NOT suffice...

-otus
 
   / Do I need an L-39? #6  
I have a new L39 with a 72" Gannon rear box blade with TnT. This tractor is a tenacious, powerfull tractor. With the GST trans it performs far and above what you would think 39 HP would. Make no mistake, this is very well built, industrial strength, tractor. The gentalman who said he wished the L39 had 50 Hp I can't figure out. This tractor has all the power and torque you can use. In the lower gears you could tie it to a tree and it would sit and spin all four tires.

Everything on this tractor is heavy built for construction or rental work. The FEL components are way stronger than the L853 on the L4330 and larger L series tractors. I know. I owned one and have closely compared the L39 with the other L series tractors.

Look at the hydraulic pumps total GPM rating on this tractor. No other tractor in the L class can compare. Just think of it as a compact John Deere 210 LE. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Now if you need a lighter weight tractor with a removable FEL I believe RAT has an L3830. The L3830 has the same engine as the L39, but is a completly different tractor. Get ahold of RAT and ask him about the L3830. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
   / Do I need an L-39? #7  
I don't have an L39 so I cannot answer specifics about it but I have used backhoes on construction jobs.

From the sounds of it you have quite a bit of backhoe work. A single seat that you can turn 180 degrees would be a real asset. My experience with backhoes was digging trenches and if I had to dismount, remount, move the tractor, dismount, and remount to get back to work I would have gotten a lot less done in a day.

The way we used to move the tractor was to raise the loader, raise the stabilizers, and use the backhoe to push the tractor forward. Lots faster than actually trying to dirve the tractor forward 3 or 4 feet. Just be sure you can reach the loader control from the backhoe seat positon.

With the time constraints you seem to have I would say that a few more dollars to get the most convenient (fastest) machine possible would be money well spent.

As for the parts issue, as I recall the L39 is a new model and I would expect parts to be a little harder to get until enough TLB's get out there and the dealers learn what parts they need to stock for the most common replacements. I have no idea how manufacturers decide when and how much inventory to stock for parts but I suspect they use most of the parts to build new machines and then start to inventory parts.

It's a good thing I am not rich, I would own a trackhoe, backhoe, bulldozer, and who knows what else!

Bill Tolle
 
   / Do I need an L-39? #8  
I have a L5030 with a BH and have to dismount to move the tractor. I can reach the FEL to raise it and then use the BH to more forward and that work pretty good. What works best is when I put my son on the tractor and I take the BH. When I'm ready he moves the tractor. This make my trench a lot more straight.
 
   / Do I need an L-39? #9  
50hp would be nice for traveling as far as I've found....uphills on paved roads is difficult fo the machine in the travel gears. Other than that, I have no problem with the hp. No question, she's an awesome machine and can't be compared to a CUT in terms of rigidity, but it costs more too. -So you get what you pay for.
 
   / Do I need an L-39? #10  
I'm not recommending this........but I disabled the switch that kills the engine when the seat is in the hoe positon and placed in gear. This way I can keep the gear shift in N and the shuttle in forward. Then when I want to creep to the next position, I just lower the RPMs, lift my stabilizers, loader and hoe then pop the shifter into 1st. The machine slowly creeps forward into position and I pop it back into neutral and lower everything. It works geat and is pretty safe from what I've found at low rpms. Some care and thought is required when doing this, no daydreaming allowed. It cost about 5 cents for a zip tie and I counldn't be happier with the results. You can fly through trenching with it.
 

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