Buying Advice Do I NEED or WANT a tractor?

[Garandman]

We bought 12 acres in NH and it sounds like you could use a tractor for the same reason we did: to improve the value of the property.

Had it 11 months, 63 hours on it as of today.

 

[John_Mc]

Unless you are just talking about a little decorative garden pond, give up on the idea of using a compact tractor for digging your own pond. Hire someone to dig it, or rent the appropriate equipment to do it yourself (my 1/4 acre pond was dug with an excavator... and NOT a mini-excavator). None of the rest of the jobs you have described come close to needing the size and type of equipment you'd want to build even a 0.2 acre pond. You could probably do the installation of new drainage with a compact tractor and backhoe, but if it's a job of any size, it might be something to do while you already have the equipment out there to dig your pond.

 

[flusher]

"The property is hill side (everything is sloped, partially steep).
Out of the area about 1-2 acres is grass, the remainder is forrest."

Hillside property--you have to get the correct tractor type if you plan to work efficiently and SAFELY on slopes. Tractors are meant for work on level ground and gentle slopes. You'd be surprised how easily and quickly you can get into trouble running your tractor on a steep slope.

You want a tractor with a low center of gravity and wide wheel track.

Ideally you want your tractor to resemble my 1964 MF135 diesel. It's a straddle tractor (you sit in the seat with your legs straddling the transmission) that has 16" diameter rear rims and 18" wide rear tires so it has a very low center of gravity and a very wide stance. The rear axle centerline is only 16" above ground and the distance between the outer walls of the rear tires is 84". The front axle spindles are shortened to keep the tractor level. The wide rear tires are 2/3 filled with water (no danger of freezing here in CA's North Sacramento Valley).



That 135 has been pretty extensively modified to squat low and wide (the previous owner used it to mow and disc his olive orchard). You definitely will not find anything like this new sitting on a dealer's lot. You can modify any tractor you decide to buy into this configuration. I know of dealers who have done this type of modification at relatively low cost.

So, your new tractor should be 35-40 hp (engine), 4WD, hydrostatic transmission, power steering, two pairs of remote hydraulic connections on the rear, front end loader (FEL) with 6-ft wide bucket, chain hooks on the top edge of the bucket, skid steer quick attach (SSQA) on the FEL arms.

Good luck

 

[AxleHub]

C'mon guys . . . the thread started with should he get a tractor or not . . . and the opinions don't seem to recognize or remember that the guy has never had a tractor and everyone seems to forget money and size are big parts of the story.

Northern Alabama is a very pretty area
. . been there many times in the Huntsville/Guntersville/Boaz areas. But likely when he says slopes . . He means slopes. And when everything is woods but 2+ acres in Northern Alabama then you're talking pine forest.

1. The "mother ship" for most tractor companies is Georgia . . So he should be able to get great pricing.

2. My property is slopes . . and his is 2 acres of grass on slopes . . I bought a subcompact SPECIFICALLY because I wouldn't want a 30 or 40 hp unit on slopes. I'd suggest a Massey GC1715 or a Kubota BX2670-1. I'd suggest a 54 inch mmm deck . . Because its slope friendly and a 3pt finish mower is not your friend on slopes of 15 degrees and more in my opinion.

3. 4wd isn't an option . . Its a necessity. I cut my slopes for years with something not 4wd because of finances . . But not again. That's why they make payment plans.

4. I chose a Massey GC1715 (25hp gross) with a front end loader and mulching 54" mmm deck with no exhaust chute (so 54 inches is really 54 inches).

5. And now for the important parts . . Add spacers to widen your stance another 2 inches in each direction (4 inch ttl ). Get a quick attach for the front bucket so you can add a special bucket choice, as well as regular bucket, as well as a small grapple and remote for it.

Why these choices instead of a compact 30 to 40 hp tractor? Because he is young and he wants to live to be old. Because he wants to succeed on real slopes and still show up for dinner with the wife at night. Imo he isn't "farmer brown or smith". "figure your size of tractor and add 2 sizes to it" might be fine for 5 degree slopes and veteran operators with lots of free cash . . but not for Northern Alabama "slopes" and a guy who is wondering if he should have a tractor.

Money is likely a big issue . . the choices above recognizes that too.

My point is enjoy having a tractor . . But afford it and come home in one piece to the wife too. Pick options and implements that give more usefulness . . (Ex. A small sized grapple that can lift 600 pounds of pine log on a sub compact . . because its small in physical size . . . not limited in work use)

Jmho

 

[John_Mc]

When I hear "woods" I start thinking of getting out firewood and logs, which to me might push you to a larger tractor. I work in my 80 acres of woods, plus another 115 acres owned jointly with a group of community members. I do this with a 33 HP NH TC33D. I'm happy with it, and it gets the job done. I certainly wouldn't want to go smaller. (There are times I wish I had gone for the large TC40, but it's a trade-off, since I also need to get into some tighter spaces at times.)

On the other hand, there are plenty of people who do their logging with an ATV and a logging arch or skidding cone. He doesn't mention getting out logs, but if that is in the cards, it can be done with a smaller compact tractor, or subcompact. It will just take a bit longer, and require a little different approach.

I do agree with the idea of not sizing the tractor for large, one-time projects, like building the pond. You can rent for that, or hire someone to do it. Trail-building can be a tough job on a small tractor, but it can be done. Stump removal is one of the tougher jobs you can do with a small tractor/backhoe, but it can be done with some patience (including the patience to just let larger stumps rot a few years before you tackle them).

 

[GPintheMitten]

He may not want to do any logging.

 

[John_Mc]

He may not want to do any logging.

Which is why I said in my earlier post "He doesn't mention getting out logs, but if that is in the cards...". If he is clearing his own trail through the woods, he'll likely need to at least move some trees, but as noted in the earlier post, that could be done with a subcompact tractor or an ATV. It could also be done by hand , if he just cuts them up small enough.