Dodge diesels-- Is this a secret ???

[HGM]

another tactic for better mileage that is highly debated on a CTD forum is larger tires. Personally I think going to a taller tire say a 285/70/17 would give you some better mileage by lowering the RPM's a couple hundred while @ 70 mph. Granted your mileage would most likely suffer at city driving.
Opening up the air box, removing the restrictive muffler and theEdge Juice helped my mileage for sure.

I dont want to appear doubting of your results.. Not being familiar with the Dodge, you would certainly have a better idea of what worked for you.. My only caution is toward the "air box".. I completely understand the principals and reasoning as to why the aftermarket filter assemblies may help in fuel economy and performance.. In my opinion though, the average Joe does not need to change the factory air box to a "free flowing" oiled air filter, particularly on a diesel.. In fact it can be a VERY bad idea.. These filters do provide more airflow, typicaly due to "bigger holes" less filter media... Some do offer more surface area as well, but still have less filtering ability when the oil is gone.. On a diesel with large volumes of air coming into the engine(no throttle plate and turbocharged) at all times, the oil is quickly sucked off of the filter removing its "filtering" capabilities... Unless you are regimented about your filter maintenance, the filter will cause early engine failure (AKA, dusted engine).. Again, I hope you dont take it the wrong way.. You are correct that the air filter system might need to be freed up on the Dodge and it might help with fuel economy.. I just wanted to add the disclaimer of what can also happen if the filter was changed out and neglected (in fact neglected may be the wrong term because it requires lesser service intervals than the factory filters) from a guy that has seen the bad side to these filters as well as the good..

 

[scesnick]

I dont want to appear doubting of your results.. Not being familiar with the Dodge, you would certainly have a better idea of what worked for you.. My only caution is toward the "air box".. I completely understand the principals and reasoning as to why the aftermarket filter assemblies may help in fuel economy and performance.. In my opinion though, the average Joe does not need to change the factory air box to a "free flowing" oiled air filter, particularly on a diesel.. In fact it can be a VERY bad idea.. These filters do provide more airflow, typicaly due to "bigger holes" less filter media... Some do offer more surface area as well, but still have less filtering ability when the oil is gone.. On a diesel with large volumes of air coming into the engine(no throttle plate and turbocharged) at all times, the oil is quickly sucked off of the filter removing its "filtering" capabilities... Unless you are regimented about your filter maintenance, the filter will cause early engine failure (AKA, dusted engine).. Again, I hope you dont take it the wrong way.. You are correct that the air filter system might need to be freed up on the Dodge and it might help with fuel economy.. I just wanted to add the disclaimer of what can also happen if the filter was changed out and neglected (in fact neglected may be the wrong term because it requires lesser service intervals than the factory filters) from a guy that has seen the bad side to these filters as well as the good..

This is exactly why you have to buy a QUALITY air filtering system. You are absolutley right about most aftermarket filters ability to actually filter the air. Especially with a big turbo sucking on from the inside.
That is why if you go the aftermarket air filter route it is crucial to buy a good system. That is why I spend the money and got the AFE Stage One system for my truck. Volant also makes a pretty nice one. But, be prepared to put out $350+ for the system.
BTW, K&N IS NOT a quality filter.

 

[ScottAR]

Has anyone researched tried/researched AEM filters? If I read their ads correctly, AEM filters are a dry synthetic media that is washable and reuseable.

I do like the fact that the filter doesn't depend on oil to collect "debris".

 

[MikePA]

BTW, K&N IS NOT a quality filter.

Please post proof of this.

 

[Av8r3400]

Mike, can you prove it is?

I can dig up pics of dust in the turbo on my Dodge-Cummins after running a K&N. It is all hype BS on these. If you are running a "Super-Tuner" autozone sponcered chrome wiperblade POS buy a K&N, they'll give you a nice sticker to put on the vehicle. If not, dont.

Turbodiesel Register will confirm.

Diesel Stop website will confirm.

PS Diesel webistes will confirm.

I'll back scesnick all the way to the bank.

 

[MikePA]

Mike, can you prove it is?

I simply asked for proof, not a personal attack and a rant. The person making the accusation has to supply proof.

 

[HGM]

I simply asked for proof, not a personal attack and rant. The person making the accusation has to supply proof.

Mike, I'm not the one making the accusation, but I will try to supply some proof for you tomorrow.. I have some info regarding this at work.. If you were to ask any diesel technician and he will tell you that the most common denominator to dusted engines he replaces are K&N style air filters.. Personally I dont like any of them, though K&N is the entry level of these types of filters..

 

[MikePA]

Mike, I'm not the one making the accusation, but I will try to supply some proof for you tomorrow.. I have some info regarding this at work.. If you were to ask any diesel technician and he will tell you that the most common denominator to dusted engines he replaces are K&N style air filters.. Personally I dont like any of them, though K&N is the entry level of these types of filters..

Thank you, Greg.

Does the proof also deal with gasoline engines?

 

[HGM]

Yes, honestly I forget if it specificly spells it out for gasburners, but there are several things to keep in mind... The biggest factor for a gasoline engine(late model) is the MAF sensor. This sensor estimates the airflow into the engine by measuring the current needed to keep a wire at a fixed temperature. More air=more current because its being cooled.. Therefore, with the oiled type air filters, with wide open throttle opperation, the engine will suck the oil off the filter onto this element/wire. With the oil on the wire acting as an insulation and a great medium for attracting more dirt, the wire becomes insulated. Therfore, less current is needed to maintain the temperature of the wire, telling the computer there is less airflow into the engine. This reading tells the computer to add less fuel for that amount of airflow, causing a lean running condition. Typical symptoms are spark knock, lack of power, poor fuel economy.. All because we ADDED more power with a "better" air filter.. The computer will adjust for the lean condition, but it results in more of a failure mode than normal performance.. Because the oil is sucked off the filter, you have bigger holes allowing more dirt in the long run.. You may have heard that these filters work better when they are dirty, this is because they actually filter better because the big holes are clogged.. All in all, its a bad idea for the average guy.. They were designed for racing applications as an alternative to no filter at all.. Most common folks dont even remember they have an air filter, let alone clean and or replace it as often as they should, then when they see these filters being "lifetime" filters, it is subliminaly infered they are no(or less) maintenance than the factory filter, wich is totaly false.. Dont know if you fit into my description of typical owners or not, but thats what I have seen.. I will try to post that article tomorrow evening, may not be the proof you're looking for, but its a pretty good article showing that things arent all rosy with these filters..

 

[togoffrd]

Please post proof of this.

I couldn't find the original thread, but this ain't a bad read.

Link

I don't know how to shorten the link, sorry.

MikePA: That's OK, I do.