3-Point Hitch Does Draft Control have any use for blade work (or is it mainly for plowing)?

[Tx Jim]

Based on this statement, why do you think that it does not work with a rear blade and grading? As long as the system is adjusted-setup properly, then why do you think that it doesn't work for grading? There is still a load put on the implement, you just set it up to be much more sensitive than when plowing.

Object of blading is leave area graded ""smooth"". If an obstruction(hard spot) is encountered when 3 pt mechanism is in draft control 3 pt will raise every so slightly even in a sensitive setting whereas in depth control 3 pt hitch will remain at set position. If blade smoothed ground to your satisfaction in "draft position" then it will do a better job of smoothing when in "depth control". I was taught at manufacture sales meetings that draft control was for 3pt plowing only and everything else which includes blading & mowing to use depth control setting. I think draft control has made no miraculous changes since it's inception,refinements yes but it's concept is the same. Don't you think the depth stops on each end of blade is what's giving you the blading results you want instead of draft control???

 

[Tx Jim]

Do you guys think that the 3pt raises inches when plowing, pretty sure it does not unless there are actual obstructions. It does not take all that much to lower the draft load and allow the tractor to continue moving forward.

After viewing your last photo I agree draft will work better for that task because you're moving enough soil to resemble plowing. When I stated blading needed to be in depth control was for smoothing(leveling) an area. I've never measured how much a plow raises in draft but one can see plow move up/down from seat of tractor when plowing in draft setting.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Object of blading is leave area graded ""smooth"". If an obstruction(hard spot) is encountered when 3 pt mechanism is in draft control 3 pt will raise every so slightly even in a sensitive setting whereas in depth control 3 pt hitch will remain at set position. If blade smoothed ground to your satisfaction in "draft position" then it will do a better job of smoothing when in "depth control". I was taught at manufacture sales meetings that draft control was for 3pt plowing only and everything else which includes blading & mowing to use depth control setting. I think draft control has made no miraculous changes since it's inception,refinements yes but it's concept is the same. Don't you think the depth stops on each end of blade is what's giving you the blading results you want instead of draft control???

My 3pt has the capability and I use it as a mixed setting with the position control and draft control. I have no idea how other tractors are, specially the older ones. :ashamed: My first 680lb blade had no skid shoes and it worked great. Yes the skid shoes help in different situations, but are not required. I have no skid shoes on my box blade, works with it also.

I have no doubt that I get very good results because of my setup, size of tractor etc. But this way of doing things works is all I can say. The other thread that I had linked to earlier seems to have worked for that guy, and he never had used draft control before.

This has all been hashed out over and over in many other threads. Many if not most people say no, it can't work. Like I said before, I know for a fact that it works for me.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

After viewing your last photo I agree draft will work better for that task because you're moving enough soil to resemble plowing. When I stated blading needed to be in depth control was for smoothing(leveling) an area. I've never measured how much a plow raises in draft but one can see plow move up/down from seat of tractor when plowing in draft setting.

While you can see it move, how much does it actually move, and it should be set for a stiff setting, so it would move more than for a fine sensitive setting. When I use my dozer, it doesn't take much to go from spinning the tracks to moving right along, less than 1/2" most of the time. Draft control simply does that automatically. :thumbsup:

 

[MossRoad]

That's what I want it to do but just the opposite. My road has small hills and valleys of rock on the steep part. I'd like the blade to hit a hill, sense the pressure, lift the blade slightly so the blade deposits rock in the valley. Then the blade should lower right before the next little hill of rock as the back pressure goes down and thus create an even surface.

Whether it'll actually works this way or just the opposite is TBD. I'd like to get the oscillation of the draft the exact opposite of the road so it creates a smooth surface.
I guess I'll just experiment some more. (I guess speed is also a variable to get all this to work).

Position control doesn't really help. (ie tractor's front wheels hit a bump, blade digs in a little deeper, front tires hit a valley, blade comes up slightly). This doesn't even out a washboard road. If anything it keeps it the same or makes it worse.

Does the 3pt lift on a 1070 has a float position? I guess I'll have to take another look at the manual. Does it float when the lift is in the full down position? Due to the weight of the rear blade (Frontier 72") I'm not sure float would help much.

I realize the right implement might be a box scraper but hope I can get by without one.

Thanks

What you want it (draft control) to do it ain't gonna do.

What you should want the implement to do is take the tops off the hills and deposit them in the valleys.

A straight blade isn't a good tool for this task. Why? Here's why.

If you set it to a set depth, its basically a long arm sticking out off the back of your tractor. As you drive along, your tractor tips forward and backward as it goes over the washboards in your road and the blade rises and falls and pretty much just traces out the hills and valleys that your tractor is driving over. It digs and misses as you drive along.

If you put a straight blade in float, it digs across the high spots as you want, but it also digs across the low spots. There's no way for it to deposit material in the low spots when in float mode.

If you use a straight blade with draft control with a set depth, and your road is made up of relatively the same soil and compaction, the blade will stay at pretty much the same height as your it did in our first example, and will follow the undulations of your tractor up and down. It MAY relieve some of the pressure on the ridges, but, again, it has no way to deposit dirt in the valleys between the bumps... its a straight blade.

A box blade in float will probably work much better. The sides of the box will ride along going over the ridges, the dirt in the box will fill in the low spots. If the ridges are extreme, use ripper teeth in the box to loosed the road a bit. Several passes with a box blade will do wonders compared to several passes with a straight blade. You can even set your lift arms to different heights to crown your road if you like.

And as others have mentioned, a plane is even better, but that's a specialized tool that most of us don't have.

 

[Threepoint]

What you want it (draft control) to do it ain't gonna do.

What you should want the implement to do is take the tops off the hills and deposit them in the valleys.

A straight blade isn't a good tool for this task. Why? Here's why.

If you set it to a set depth, its basically a long arm sticking out off the back of your tractor. As you drive along, your tractor tips forward and backward as it goes over the washboards in your road and the blade rises and falls and pretty much just traces out the hills and valleys that your tractor is driving over. It digs and misses as you drive along.

If you put a straight blade in float, it digs across the high spots as you want, but it also digs across the low spots. There's no way for it to deposit material in the low spots when in float mode.

If you use a straight blade with draft control with a set depth, and your road is made up of relatively the same soil and compaction, the blade will stay at pretty much the same height as your it did in our first example, and will follow the undulations of your tractor up and down. It MAY relieve some of the pressure on the ridges, but, again, it has no way to deposit dirt in the valleys between the bumps... its a straight blade.

A box blade in float will probably work much better. The sides of the box will ride along going over the ridges, the dirt in the box will fill in the low spots. If the ridges are extreme, use ripper teeth in the box to loosed the road a bit. Several passes with a box blade will do wonders compared to several passes with a straight blade. You can even set your lift arms to different heights to crown your road if you like.

And as others have mentioned, a plane is even better, but that's a specialized tool that most of us don't have.

Interesting thread. My NX4510HST is my first tractor with draft control, and I haven't taken the time to learn how to use it. The Kioti owner's manual explains many things well, but draft control isn't one of them. :irked: I've wondered if it might help with my medium duty Woods 7' box blade in heavy, wet crusher run. When the box is full with that, I have to run in low range or bog down when on a moderate grade. I'm thinking draft control might let me run in mid range. Have the snow blade on for a few weeks, so experimenting will have to wait.

 

[MitchellB]

I'd consider adding a set of gauge wheels to the rear of the scraper blade if you want no hassle smooth grading. Otherwise I think you will need to learn to ride the lift lever and feather it as you go over hills and valleys. Not easy, but can be done with practice.

 

[Tx Jim]

When I use my dozer, it doesn't take much to go from spinning the tracks to moving right along, less than 1/2" most of the time. Draft control simply does that automatically.

How wide of a blade on your dozer? I like to see a video of your dozer in action slipping the tracks and then blade raises "ONLY 1/2 INCH" for tracks to stop slipping. I'm not stating it ain't so but sure would like to see it in action. Maybe soil is a lot easier to move in Cal. than TX.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

How wide of a blade on your dozer? I like to see a video of your dozer in action slipping the tracks and then blade raises "ONLY 1/2 INCH" for tracks to stop slipping. I'm not stating it ain't so but sure would like to see it in action. Maybe soil is a lot easier to move in Cal. than TX.

90" wide, you can see the small lift points in the ground behind the tractor. I don't understand why you think it takes so much to let the tractor continue. It takes X amount to stop a machine, you lessen that amount by raising the blade. Why do you think the blade has to be raised a lot?

As an example, if the tractor can move 1000lbs, and it starts to move more, then it stops, but by lowering the load it continues on. You don't have to lower the load by a lot, just a little so that you maintain that 999lb load.

Anyway, it is what it is, believe it or not.

 

[jenkinsph]

I would set the load and depth control to the middle position. That is what I found worked best for box blades and rear blades in the past.

I mentioned the above middle position as it is a compromise between load and depth control. If the draft load is high enough it will raise the 3ph slightly but not as much as if in load control setting. Depending on the soil conditions it may or may not be enough to make a difference.