Does this look like correct trans/hydraulic fluid?

[777funk]

Here's what came out of the new to me 336D:

 

[winston1]

Cannot tell if it is correct fluid but it does appear to be water contaminated.

 

[duanew1]

777funk

You have funk in your oil. Actually it looks like it has water in it.

 

[777funk]

It doesn't look as bad as the 8Ns fluid that I almost bought (white milkshake), but of course I wasn't happy to see even a trace water. The guts look shiny still with no rust. I was glad to see that.

The screen was coated with gunk pretty good.

Question: What's to keep the triangle cap side of the filter screen sealed? On that end, there was a spring and the cap and that was it. It seems like trash could bypass it. Maybe that's by design. The actual spin-on will just plug sooner if the screen misses.

I'm actually tempted to put that fluid back in after replacing the filter. The sump and axle housings looked a little sludgy. I'd like to run it a little more and clean the screen then change the filter a second time with new fluid. Maybe not the best idea. I'm sure new fluid will be contaminated pretty quick after a change as it stands.

That third picture is after cleaning with a garden hose sprayer from the inside and drying.

 

[RickB]

It is headed in the right direction. Dump it, find out if there is a suction screen & if there is, clean it. New filter, new oil.
Edit, just saw your second set of photos. The screen is junk. The last guy didn稚 get the outlet nipple seated and wrecked it. Do not pour that garbage oil back in there, get fresh oil of whatever spec is called for.

 

[Oldoak]

I would NEVER put that same contaminated oil back in. A possibility is to use a cheaper genetic brand oil (many say TC carries good Hyd. oil) and run that for a short time to flush the hydraulic system. Then drain that oil and refill with what ever brand you prefer.

 

[California]

...Edit, just saw your second set of photos. The screen is junk. The last guy didnt get the outlet nipple seated and wrecked it.

Agree, it looks like the end of the filter is bent over. I would replace it if you can't straighten it to get a perfect seal.

Anybody know if the o-ring on the cover is sufficient to seal it? If so, the gasket paste is not needed and I would just buy a new o-ring for it.

 

[777funk]

... replace it if you can't straighten it to get a perfect seal.

...

This was my question earlier. I don't see any sort of sealing membrane on the end with the nipple. It just goes into a spring which pushes the other end (with a rubber gasket) against it's seal point at the spin-on filter inlet. But yes, the nipple end... from what I can see (at least on mine... may be missing something), is just against the spring and the cover plate on top of that. There's no rubber on that end to do sealing duty.

 

[777funk]

Picked up 5 Gallons of fluid at Walmart ($38) John Deere 303 spec. They didn't have a hydraulic filter that matches, but O'Reilly did for $4.99. They crossed the current filter number (was a CarQuest Wix #85622) to a Mobile 1 which then crossed to their own Microguard brand - part number MGL51515. Hopefully the hydraulics will work now.

 

[winston1]

I haven't looked up specs on your filter but would be suspicious of it. You need one that pretty much matches these specs or your likely to have flow problems. Wix 51525 & Napa 1525 Oil Filter: FleetFilter - Wix Filters/NapaGold, Fram, Baldwin, and Luberfiner