Buying Advice Done with hydrostatics

[LouNY]

and as I have said what I i have been doing all this time is lock throttle to full AND push with travel pedal full down AS WELL until either the job gets done

I am slightly confused, I am assuming that this is in regards to your hydro riding mower/ lawn tractor, you are opening the hand throttle all the way (WOT) and then putting the hydro pedal all the way as far as it will go? If this is correct it sounds to me like you are trying to mow at the absolute maximum speed your mower is capable of, this would be the same as placing a geared unit in it's highest gear and WOT and expecting it to work well and last.
I am not a hydro fan by any means but I wouldn't expect much equipment to last very long being operated in that manner, gear driven or hydro.
I hope I have misread your operating style.

 

[fitterski]

Go look at used garden tractors with the Tuff Torq K66 or the Hydro Gear G730. You'll be replacing engines before rear axles unless you are exceptionally hard on them or you are exceptionally unlucky.

I have a barely used complete mower lined up for $800 (don't know the make off hand) up but this issue will need to be either resolved or passed to a sub-process before I buy it. And it's only 48" which does make a difference to me. Another idea might be to find one of those 'better' units and cannibalize it onto the SLTX1054.

 

[fitterski]

We operate under napoleonic civil code, not common law, apples and oranges. I know next to nothing in the field but the issue of 'reasonable expectation' is a central one according to what I've heard.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I have a barely used complete mower lined up for $800 (don't know the make off hand) up but this issue will need to be either resolved or passed to a sub-process before I buy it. And it's only 48" which does make a difference to me. Another idea might be to find one of those 'better' units and cannibalize it onto the SLTX1054.

What exact model are you looking at? If you tell us that, we can find what rear axle it has so you'll know if it's good to go... Or another junker.

Brands don't mean much, Husqvarna, Cub and John Deere all make some with the K42/46 junk, but other models with a G730 or K66. My opinion is that the G730 is a step up from a K66, but in recent years you can get a K66 with differential lock while there is no such thing in the G730.

 

[fitterski]

I am slightly confused, I am assuming that this is in regards to your hydro riding mower/ lawn tractor, you are opening the hand throttle all the way (WOT) and then putting the hydro pedal all the way as far as it will go? If this is correct it sounds to me like you are trying to mow at the absolute maximum speed your mower is capable of, this would be the same as placing a geared unit in it's highest gear and WOT and expecting it to work well and last.
I am not a hydro fan by any means but I wouldn't expect much equipment to last very long being operated in that manner, gear driven or hydro.
I hope I have misread your operating style.

After starting I back the throttle out of the choke range and then use the pedal to establish a usable travel speed depending on the grass condition. This may be a crawl with tall grass or full speed with short grass and once I have bracketed to the ideal speed I lock that too. What I use as a guide are the engine and deck feedback sounds, if it starts to shudder then the speed has to come down, etc. exactly as it would have to with standard gearing except that with standard gear I'd have to shift down as well. There is no shifting down with a HST. If this be incorrect then I'd want to know where it is documented as being incorrect.

 

[Rock Crawler]

After starting I back the throttle out of the choke range and then use the pedal to establish a usable travel speed depending on the grass condition. This may be a crawl with tall grass or full speed with short grass and once I have bracketed to the ideal speed I lock that too. What I use as a guide are the engine and deck feedback sounds, if it starts to shudder then the speed has to come down, etc. exactly as it would have to with standard gearing except that with standard gear I'd have to shift down as well. There is no shifting down with a HST. If this be incorrect then I'd want to know where it is documented as being incorrect.

Your doing it correctly. Full throttle at all times while doing work. Modulate travel speed as required with the HST. I have a Husqvarna Fast cut that is designed to mow at full HST speeds, and it does a fabulous job at 6.5 mph. Unless the grass is not maintained, the bulk of my 3.5 acre yard area is mowed at full speed. I keep the blades sharp, the throttle full on and it cuts perfectly.

 

[fitterski]

What exact model are you looking at? If you tell us that, we can find what rear axle it has so you'll know if it's good to go... Or another junker.[/QUOT]

It's a 'White' and it's a 48" 3-blade deck, that's all I know, plus the fact that it'll probably be sold by the time I go for it :-(

[QUOT]Brands don't mean much, Husqvarna, Cub and John Deere all make some with the K42/46 junk, but other models with a G730 or K66. My opinion is that the G730 is a step up from a K66, but in recent years you can get a K66 with differential lock while there is no such thing in the G730.

My subject HST is a 618-0427B, I don't know how that is known in the trade jargon.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I think you have the Cub Cadet mower deck part number. What's the model and brand of the actual tractor that your looking to purchase?

 

[LouNY]

After starting I back the throttle out of the choke range and then use the pedal to establish a usable travel speed depending on the grass condition. This may be a crawl with tall grass or full speed with short grass and once I have bracketed to the ideal speed I lock that too. What I use as a guide are the engine and deck feedback sounds, if it starts to shudder then the speed has to come down, etc. exactly as it would have to with standard gearing except that with standard gear I'd have to shift down as well. There is no shifting down with a HST. If this be incorrect then I'd want to know where it is documented as being incorrect.

OK, that is what I would think most people do.
Your quote didn't read that way and I was wondering :confused3:

 

[fitterski]

I think you have the Cub Cadet mower deck part number. What's the model and brand of the actual tractor that your looking to purchase?

I only know that it's a White, 3-blade, 48", my son lined it up and apparently it's a good deal but being hardly used at all it's also likely to move faster than yours truly.