dongfeng tractor with y385t wont start help

[reelnative]

i did go out and pull the valve cover today to ck the valves and i dont know how but they got tighter then when i did them just 5 hrs of run time ago, i found a write up from a nortrac tec about the 385 eng and how the org specs were somthing like 25 on the int and 30 on the ext and that that set up would or could make the eng run hotter then it should and that now they are telling everyone to run from .014 to .016 on both and that comes out to about .30mm to .40mm and i set mine at .30 when i put the head on, well today when i checked mine about half if not more of them were at .20mm and when i did them i checked them then rechecked them, i dont know how but they tightened up on me so i set them all today to .015 or .35m, and seeing that i was at the 5hr mark i dumped the napa 15-40 oil and filled her up with rotella 10-30 semi senthedic it seemed to start faster and I thought because i opened up the valves so much it would of been clanking but it didnt, it really sounded good hahaha maby it was the rotella, tomorrow after church im going to drain the hyd oil then spray all the gears down with diesel from a pump sprayer and then fill the trans area with diesel run for a couple of mins and then drain it and refill it with some utf and prob run it for about an hr and then drain it again and refill, tractor supply has a good deal going on right now they have utf for 32.00 a five gal bucket and i have one on hand so ill prob stop by tommorrow and pick up another

 

[quicksandfarmer]

i did go out and pull the valve cover today to ck the valves and i dont know how but they got tighter then when i did them just 5 hrs of run time ago

I think that's the head gasket compressing. When I replaced my head gasket, after 50 hours I re-torqued the head bolts. When I put the valve train back on the valves were so tight I had to loosen the adjustment bolts substantially to get any gap, at first I thought I must have it misaligned it was that tight. The gasket compressing moves the valve train closer to the camshaft and makes the valves tighter.

My manual says the procedure for replacing the head gasket is to torque it to the specifed torque, run the engine until warm, let it cool off, and then re-torque. Then re-torque again at 50 hours. Each time you torque adjust the valves.

 

[reelnative]

o ok then i guess i better pull off the valve train and re-torque the head bolts then cause i didnt do that, hope i didnt mess up the head gasket by running it 5hrs, without re-torque after getting it warm, quicksand did you get much out of the re-torque after you let it cool the first time

 

[reelnative]

hey Bob if I pull the rod caps and then re-torque them to a lower value then I org set them at will that let the bearings have more play or do they need to be replaced with new, my oil pressure is still hi

 

[Bob Rooks]

hey Bob if I pull the rod caps and then re-torque them to a lower value then I org set them at will that let the bearings have more play or do they need to be replaced with new, my oil pressure is still hi

You have mail.

http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html
http://www.jhps.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PL&Product_Code=PLARP&Category_Code=PL
Should be available at any NAPA or other knowledgeable auto parts house for a few dollars.

 

[Bob Rooks]

o ok then i guess i better pull off the valve train and re-torque the head bolts then cause i didnt do that, hope i didnt mess up the head gasket by running it 5hrs, without re-torque after getting it warm, quicksand did you get much out of the re-torque after you let it cool the first time

Retorque the head and reset the valve lash. You should be fine

 

[reelnative]

well i pulled the valve train and re-torqued the head only one bolt moved and it was very little, installed the valve train, adjusted the valves fired it up and it sounded good, so i moved on to dumping the hydro fluid, man that was nasty stuff, this is a good size tractor it had about 7 or 8 gal of fluid, well i dumped it then took a pump up sprayed and sprayed about 4 gal of diesel thru it with all of the drains open then got in there with a rag were i could and wiped it all down and filled it with 5gal of utf, it was just touching the bottom of the dip stick so i fired it up and within 1min it was funki again but nothing like before, im sure a lot of it was from what was left on the gears of the rear axle and the hydro pumps but ill add another 2gal of utf to it and run it for a few hrs and then dump it again, one good thing tho is i didnt find any water in there, and every tractor ive ever owned allways had a little water in there, well all except for my cat 416

 

[reelnative]

i have to correct my measurement on the hyd fluid, after going and getting another 5gal tub of utf it only took one and a half 44oz big gulp cups of utf to put the level right on the dip stick so i guess it takes 5 gal and 66oz of fluid to fill it, not the 7 or 8 that i thought, i must of got some diesel in the used oil tubs hahaha

 

[reelnative]

well yesterday, after doing all that stuff i fired up the tractor and the oil pressure was acting weard, so i tryed to tighten the screw on the sender and it just turned and wouldnt tighten up so I said to myself great now i can go buy a real gauge and see what is really going on here, bob rooks had me ready with wrench in hand ready to go ck the rod bearings because we both thought that the oil pressure was hi and prob tight bearings were why, well i just added a sun pro mec oil gauge and guess what my pressure is about as right as rain at cold start up it is dead on 60psi and when at 80c and 1000rpm its at 42psi, so to me that sounds about as normal as can be, there was one weard thing tho and maby you guys can tell me what is going on I think i have an idea but when i add throttle the pressure goes up until it hits about 65psi at 1800rpm then when i hit 2000rpm the pressure drops to about 50psi, im thinking that there is some sort of bypass in the system so it wont over pressure am i right or is there somthing weard going on, after lunch i have a temp gauge and a volt meter to add< O one other thing my volt meter that is on there now when running is on the charge side but will jump from the half way point on the charge side to the center and it keeps doing that is that what it does when the batt is fully charged or do i have a bad ground or somthing Thanks guys

 

[reelnative]

well the sun pro made in china water temp gauge is in and all i can say is wow what a diff a made for the usa gauge makes, those gauges that came with the tractor really sucked, i hate to say that cause i like to give anyone a fair chance, but really I think one of the first things someone should do if ever buying a new one of these right after changing out the oil or what ever they put in these, is put a real set of gauges on the tractor, it doesnt cost much and really tells you what is going on in there, but then again when i bought a 60,000.00 dodge diesel it didnt have any gauges,(fuel pressure,ext temp trand temp, fuel rail pressure) it did have a tac and water temp and oil pressure, but with a diesel you need to know whats going on or you can break somthing, I think im gonna install a fuel pressure gauge on the tractor also