Draft Control

[GarthH]

I trying to understand if it would be worthwhile to invest into draft control for my L3940.

I was putting more gravel on my road last year and found it was very difficult to smooth out a few bumps. As the tractor wheels dipped of course the box blade dipped.

The dealer indicated the parts are $700, I have not heard the cost of the installation. The salesman said that they sell very few tractors with draft control.

Oddly when we were looking for a tractor 5 years ago, as we were moving to the acreage a farming buddy said make sure you get a tractor with draft control.

Does anyone have draft control on their Kobuta? Does it work well? Is there sometype of work around?

Thanks

Garth

 

[TripleR]

We have some with draft control and am not sure it will accomplish what you want.

http://www.tractorsmart.com/main/Tractor Three Point Lift Types.htm

 

[Reg]

I trying to understand if it would be worthwhile to invest into draft control for my L3940.

I was putting more gravel on my road last year and found it was very difficult to smooth out a few bumps. As the tractor wheels dipped of course the box blade dipped.

The dealer indicated the parts are $700, I have not heard the cost of the installation. The salesman said that they sell very few tractors with draft control.

Oddly when we were looking for a tractor 5 years ago, as we were moving to the acreage a farming buddy said make sure you get a tractor with draft control.

Does anyone have draft control on their Kobuta? Does it work well? Is there sometype of work around?

Thanks

Garth

I think draft control won't do for you what I think (from your post) you want it to.

My basic lay description;
When a ground engaging implement (e.g. a plough) encounters unusual resistance (a hard spot) there is a tendency for the implement to pivot about the lift arm ends.
This causes an increase in the compressive force on the top link.
Draft control reacts to this and opens a valve to lift the implement, usually clear of the unusually high resistance.
When the resistance is reduced the valve closes and the implement returns to the original depth.
==========================
Now, one can argue as to whether it is a separate control, or merely another input to the position control - but functionally it raises the implement in response to resistance.

For what (I think) you described I am guessing gauge wheels may be a solution and/or more experience with the box blade and back dragging with the bucket.

You may just be getting "whoop-de-doos" e.g. waves that are some unfortunate function of your tractor's wheelbase, lift arm length, distance to box blade cutting edge, etc. - i.e. "Geometry" can be a gotcha.

 

[Tx Jim]

Reg is very correct in his definition of draft control. Draft control isn't designed for any function that operator wants/needs to control height/depth. The only way with a rear blade to help control the humps is to go forward & reverse with the box blade. That's why they have a frt & rear blade on them. A box blade requires some experience to master well.

 

[milkman636]

My JD 5210 has draft control. It helps with a boxblde on gravel, but you have to really get a full box full to see it helping. You end up moving alot more material than you need to. I have better luck using my strait blade to smooth out the gravel drive and put a little crown back on it.

Before you invest in draft control take a look at some of the posts on here about land planes. I think they would be the ticket for what you are doing.

 

[rScotty]

Yes, I agree with all those descriptions of draft control. Some tractors are more sensitive than others, but that's how mine work all right. Draft control is good to keep a sudden rock or root from stopping the tractor dead in it's tracks, but it just isn't sensitive or fast-acting enough to spread matieral like gravel evenly. In fact, the short wheelbase of our compacts make spreading material - which is normally a difficult job - evenly more difficult with a rigidly mounted 3pt implement like a blade or a box. Experience will make you better....maybe good enough... but that whole system is pretty limited. I also think that the solution to cutting dips and swales in the roadway is an implement with it's own gauge wheels. It could be attached to the 3pt, but would probably be more of a "towed free-floater" rather than rigid vertically. That means it has to be heavier than whatever it is spreading.
Someday maybe someone will invent a set of clip-on gauge wheels that will fit a wide range of implements....FELs, too.
rScotty

 

[Toolguy]

I have had good success leveling driveway gravel with a straight blade set at an angle. The angle is what both prevents and repairs the whoop-de-dos. Skid pads also help. Gauge wheels are even better at keeping the blade from dipping into the low spots. Gauge wheels set back from the blade about an equal distance from the rear axle of the tractor would be ideal and would probably let your boxblade do an excellent job. Anything that controls the depth of the blade other than the 3pth arms of the tractor with help. When you try to control the depth of the blade with the tractor arms you are asking for trouble. Every time the front wheels go up or down that motion raises or lowers the blade and compounds the problem. Every implement has a learning curve. I am sure you will figure it out. Good Luck.

 

[TripleR]

I trying to understand if it would be worthwhile to invest into draft control for my L3940.

I was putting more gravel on my road last year and found it was very difficult to smooth out a few bumps. As the tractor wheels dipped of course the box blade dipped.

The dealer indicated the parts are $700, I have not heard the cost of the installation. The salesman said that they sell very few tractors with draft control.

Oddly when we were looking for a tractor 5 years ago, as we were moving to the acreage a farming buddy said make sure you get a tractor with draft control.

Does anyone have draft control on their Kobuta? Does it work well? Is there sometype of work around?

Thanks

Garth

Do you have a hydraulic toplink? It makes using a box blade much easier. "Angle of attack" or whatever term you use is really important on gettinf a smooth finish, moving material and feathering edges. Experience can not be over emphasized as my dad could work rings around me with his old Ford 600 and cheap bb.

As mention, as grading scraper such as this makes a really easy to use road maintenance tool if you can afford one.

Land Pride Grading Scrapers

I use a BB2584 as well as one of these, so I have to pass on anything else.

Land Pride Drag Scrapers

 

[Chilly807]

I doubt draft control will do what you want it to in this case.

The single biggest trick I've found to grading a driveway is to slow down.

I usually make a couple of passes pulling the blade (digging), then a few very slow passes in reverse smoothing it. The slow speed gives you a chance to react to what the blade's doing.

Sean

 

[DiverDarrell]

Hyd top link!! I thought it was nice when it came with the tractor. Now I know it is absolutely necessary component of the box blade system. I can make it cut when I want or spread when I want. Or anywhere in-between. I couldnt live without it now.