Drain from washer into Septic

[shovelmike]

Is it all ABS, or is iron pipe under the floor? I had that problem a few years ago, I thought it was just because the new washer put water down the drain a lot faster than the old one did, but the problem was that the pipes under the concrete floor were cast iron and filled with years of accumulated rust. We had to break out some of the concrete and replace a section of pipe.
I think it would be a lot of work for me to change mine at this point, but if I was building out here today I would have soapy water from the washer etc. going to a seepage pit and only make the septic tank deal with sewage from the toilets.

 

[ruffdog]

I think most codes recommend a 1.5 or 2 inch drain line with a stand pipe 36-42 inches above the trap. That is going to require some re-work in your situation.

SimS

That is what I was thinking too. There is no stand pipe height to let gravity get a good flow going. It just didn't look right.

 

[check]

That is what I was thinking too. There is no stand pipe height to let gravity get a good flow going. It just didn't look right.

That is a good idea, and easy to fix by just making the pipe that the drain goes onto a little longer.

BTW it is a HE front load washer which as you know uses much less water. I will snake out the drain all the way to the T on the big 4” pipe, which is all ABS right to the septic tank (which is right behind that wall).

Thanks for the suggestions, guys! Keep them coming! Will report again soon.

 

[Billrog]

It will also flow better without the tape restricting the venting.

 

[GeeVee]

Hi, folks, my washing machine drain started backflowing where the (grey) hose goes in to the ABS drain pipe. (See the pic.)

I have used this washer a couple of times before with no problem, so I don稚 see why all of a sudden the washing machine water would backflow out of the ABS PIPE/grey hose connection (which I just have 都ealed with Gorilla tape.

Any ideas would be much appreciated!



James

View attachment 652417

Holy Cow. Not trying to offend you, but there is all kinds of things wrong in the picture. This must be a cottage, yes?

Anyways, after you secure your plumbing properly- gravity will work on that collection of "distribution" you have going on there....

Extend the ABS so the washer drain pipe is right behind the washer in the largest pipe size you can get over to it. The Washer drain hose is 1 1/4 and that short, for a reason by engineering, to mate up to a pump that is economical to manufacture.

The next issue you could check, which no one mentioned, is the vertical vent stack through the roof. Birds nesting, squirrels falling in a dying, or rust from cast iron at the undergound level all can create a blockage that essentially creates an Air block when you drain higher volumes at faster flows. People overlook the vent stack as an issue all the time.

I do not put my washers into Septic tanks, I put small plastic drums or tanks perforated by my own drill into draining soils, or I run typical abs drain pipe with socks and gravel and drain it, the volume of a 4: drainfield pipe is pretty significant ad you don't need that much.

And dang- secure that cobbled up plumbing manifold, you're going to have a worse flooding problem than a washer backup if you don't.

 

[kthompson]

I had missed your picture, sorry. It looks like your drain pipe is tight in the drain line. Your washer line should be loose in there with air room around the washer's line. If it is tight it can siphon the washers water. Depending on how your washer determines the amount of water in it might be having to keep adding water.

As suggested check your vent and what was said about cast iron pipe, yep does happen. Had that to happen to mother in laws house few months back. Great it was on crawl space.

 

[3Ts]

I think most codes recommend a 1.5 or 2 inch drain line with a stand pipe 36-42 inches above the trap. That is going to require some re-work in your situation.

SimS

I believe (without looking it up) that 1.5" drain line is for bath and kitchen sinks. For Washing machine and showers it's 2". The 36-42" height is to get the air gap above the tub water level to keep it from siphoning, so if you're on a pedestal you should probably go higher. Note: no idea why a tub style would be on a pedestal, but put that in there to make a point.

 

[EddieWalker]

How high up is that drain line having to go? The pump on those machines is just powerful enough to do the job, and the higher it is forced to push water, the faster it will wear out.

With such a short run to the big drain pipe, it's a easy job to run a snake through there and make sure it's clear.

As others have suggested, that tape is blocking air from getting into the pipe to act as a vent. You can put a Y in there to continue using tape to hold it in place, or put a hose clamp aound the drain and the pipe to allow air in.

If it was my house, I would lower the drain line by several feet and run a proper vent line.

 

[hosspuller]

Holy cow is right ! You might have an electrical problem too … Looks like there's a ground wire attached to the copper on the water heater. Too bad it's connected with plastic at the outlet and inlet. That ground might not do you any good or overload the ground (if any) on the heating elements. Who is doing the installation work for you ?

 

[MossRoad]

Septic system is fine. Toilets flushing with no overflow. Probed the drain, no blockage.

Is the vent close enough? Supposed to be within 5 feet, right?

I think this gave people the impression that you ran a snake through the trap to the 4" vertical.

That is a good idea, and easy to fix by just making the pipe that the drain goes onto a little longer.

BTW it is a HE front load washer which as you know uses much less water. I will snake out the drain all the way to the T on the big 4” pipe, which is all ABS right to the septic tank (which is right behind that wall).

Thanks for the suggestions, guys! Keep them coming! Will report again soon.

However, this seems to indicate you haven't done that yet.

Before spending any more time and/or money, remove that trap and make sure it, the pipe to the 4" vertical, and the pipe in the other direction to where the washing machine hose drops in are all clear.