Dressing Up A Scratched Cylinder Rod???

[Dougster]

As you found out, it's a very hard steal that chrome plated. The brazing method will eliminate the rust problem also. Do you have a local hydraulic shop in your area? You should get this fixed before the chrome starts coming off. It should not be expensive YET

Yeah, we've got a local guy that might take care of this without breaking the bank. Mixed reputation, but I suppose that's better than a bad reputation.

Sounds like I need to go see him on Monday.

Dougster

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Nothing from Bradco is ever cheap... but I've got to believe that the rod and associated seals, etc. would be cheaper to replace than buying a brand new cylinder. If not, I am in bigger trouble than I thought.
Dougster

I wasn't thinking of a Bradco cylinder as a replacement, guess I forgot about all the Bradco quirks. I always think in generic terms. Usually = less $$$ for me.

 

[Dougster]

I wasn't thinking of a Bradco cylinder as a replacement, guess I forgot about all the Bradco quirks. I always think in generic terms. Usually = less $$$ for me.

I'm confident that the good folks at Woodbury Tractor will fix me up with a new Bradco rod, seal kit and other misc hardware for less than the cost of a new Subaru. I'll let the local hydraulics guy do the installation... as long as he's got the special tool to unscrew the cylinder gland. If he plans to use a pipe wrench on it, I'll buy the special tool and do it myself!!!

Dougster

 

[Wayne County Hose]

First of all, as long as it is gouged inward and nothing sticking out past the diameter of the rod, you're okay. You can sand it with crokus cloth with a little oil on it. Do not use sandpaper. When you rub it, go around the rod, never up and down it. You only want to take off a high spot or sharp edges. If none of these are present, don't even mess with it. I've done many a cylinder like this and never had a problem.

 

[Dougster]

First of all, as long as it is gouged inward and nothing sticking out past the diameter of the rod, you're okay. You can sand it with crokus cloth with a little oil on it. Do not use sandpaper. When you rub it, go around the rod, never up and down it. You only want to take off a high spot or sharp edges. If none of these are present, don't even mess with it. I've done many a cylinder like this and never had a problem.

Thanks Andy! We really need to get you to move up here to Taxachusetts, Northern Rhode Island or Southern New Hampshire. Personally, I suggest Southern New Hampshire unless you LOVE high taxes!

Can you elaborate on what you meant by: "I've done many a cylinder like this and never had a problem." Were you refering to the minor touch-up or to rod replacement?

Also, the Bradco cylinder end (called "cylinder gland" on the parts list) appears to unscrew with a special tool There are two holes in the cylinder end face 180 degrees apart from one another. What does this tool look like and where can I get one?

Or is cylinder rod replacement best left to a professional?

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

The Bradco cylinder end (called "cylinder gland" on the parts list) appears to unscrew with a special tool There are two holes in the cylinder end face 180 degrees apart from one another. What does this tool look like and where can I get one?

Well, I found Bradco's cylinder seal replacement instructions on-line and the special tool is simply a spanner wrench.

Bradco Cylinder Seal Replacement

On the other hand, it looks like I may need Bradco's seal installation tool (Bradco Part No. 65349).

Dougster

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Thanks Andy! We really need to get you to move up here to Taxachusetts, Northern Rhode Island or Southern New Hampshire. Personally, I suggest Southern New Hampshire unless you LOVE high taxes!
You can keep your taxes, PA is getting there though.

Can you elaborate on what you meant by: "I've done many a cylinder like this and never had a problem." Were you refering to the minor touch-up or to rod replacement?
Both actually, but in your case I meant rod touch up. Just make sure nothing is protuding out past the rod's original circumference. Indents are okay, just no sharp edges or protusions.

Also, the Bradco cylinder end (called "cylinder gland" on the parts list) appears to unscrew with a special tool There are two holes in the cylinder end face 180 degrees apart from one another. What does this tool look like and where can I get one?
This is called a "spanner wrench". Proto makes them, as do others. You could use a pipe wrench in a pinch, just be careful not to mark up the rod more.

Or is cylinder rod replacement best left to a professional?
Doug, give me a call if you want help with this. Can you post a pic of how bad it is?

You also do not need their special seal installation tool. I have a set of these and they normally don't work on rod seals below 2" anyway. Just heat a bowl of water in the microwave to 140 degrees, place the seal in it for 5 minutes, take the seal out and put it where it goes, that simple. If you do want these tools, go to the Hercules-Bulldog website and order them. Probably much cheaper.

Andy..

 

[bindian]

Makes sense. I assume we are talking wet sanding/polishing here.

Are these cylinder rods typically made of solid stainless steel? Or are they merely nickel or chrome plated steel? I can't tell.

Dougster

Follow-up: Opps... Forget the question. It's obviously plated steel 'cause I just took a closer look and I can already see rust forming! -d

Dougster,
Wow, that must be a deep scratch. The scratch on my stabilizer cylinder rod is not past the plating. It does not leak and only makes noises if there is mud on it. I think you will find a new cylinder will be about the same or not much more than all the parts and labor to fix it.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Dougster]

You can keep your taxes, PA is getting there though.

Both actually, but in your case I meant rod touch up. Just make sure nothing is protuding out past the rod's original circumference. Indents are okay, just no sharp edges or protusions.

This is called a "spanner wrench". Proto makes them, as do others. You could use a pipe wrench in a pinch, just be careful not to mark up the rod more.

Doug, give me a call if you want help with this. Can you post a pic of how bad it is?

You also do not need their special seal installation tool. I have a set of these and they normally don't work on rod seals below 2" anyway. Just heat a bowl of water in the microwave to 140 degrees, place the seal in it for 5 minutes, take the seal out and put it where it goes, that simple. If you do want these tools, go to the Hercules-Bulldog website and order them. Probably much cheaper.
Andy..

Thanks Andy. Not sure I can take a decent close-up photo in the garage, but I'll give it a try. It's almost immaterial, however, because with flaking of the plating about ready to start and rust already popping through, I'm thinking replacement sooner rather than later.

That must be a big spanner wrench. I've got a smaller one, but nothing nearly that big. Nothing for sale around here that big either... so probably back to the Internet again!

Understood on the seal heating thing. I'll pass on the special tool. Any money I can save on fixing this screw-up will help me to control my embarrassment.

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

Dougster, Wow, that must be a deep scratch. The scratch on my stabilizer cylinder rod is not past the plating. It does not leak and only makes noises if there is mud on it. I think you will find a new cylinder will be about the same or not much more than all the parts and labor to fix it.
hugs, Brandi

Yeah, it went through the plating down into base metal. With sharp edges and rust already bleeding through, I'm gonna swallow hard, open up the wallet and try to address it right away.

I'll price out both replacing the damaged rod plus a seal kit... and a full cylinder replacement as well and see what makes the most sense... but like so many other things lately, the savings may be small and the labor may be a pain, but almost any small savings is very hard for me to pass up.

Dougster