tlbuser
Veteran Member
My favorite hydraulic shop has those capabilities. If Doug wants to bring it down, I'll spring for lunch 
Dougster said:Oh Man!!!Cruel Ed... Cruel.
How's about a picture of that bush-hog you exploded!![]()
Dougster
gemini5362 said:I notced one of the posters here mentioned having it brazed then that turned back down to the original diameter. If you are going to spring for a new cylinder anywy why not try that cheaper operation and see what happens. If it works you should save a lot of money. If it doesnt then you wont be out a lot of money and you will have some precious knowledge to pass on to us![]()
I've not given up entirely on that option... but I will admit that the plating peeling and rust formation I found the other day did not bode well for trying to make a repair. Anyway, I talk with the local hydraulic cylinder repair guy tomorrow and I'll get you know what he says.tlbuser said:My favorite hydraulic shop has those capabilities. If Doug wants to bring it down, I'll spring for lunch![]()
civesnedfield said:Hey I'm not proud. When I get home this weekend I'll snap a few pictures. That way everyone can see what happens when a 25 year old bush hog tries to take on a 2000 year old rock.![]()
Here's a hint----- Rock 1, Bush Hog 0
![]()
PaulChristenson said:PETR has already posted a bounty on you...![]()
"People for the Ethical Treatment of ROCKS"
Dougster said:Yeah, it went through the plating down into base metal. With sharp edges and rust already bleeding through, I'm gonna swallow hard, open up the wallet and try to address it right away.![]()
I'll price out both replacing the damaged rod plus a seal kit... and a full cylinder replacement as well and see what makes the most sense... but like so many other things lately, the savings may be small and the labor may be a pain, but almost any small savings is very hard for me to pass up.![]()
Dougster
Hi Andy - "Peeling" was a very poor word choice on my part. I made it sound like a banana!Wayne County Hose said:Doug, Don't worry about the rusting. It's below where any seal rides. It's really a non-issue. I don't know if I've ever seen the chrome peel off from something like this. Run it until it leaks. You will not damage the cylinder any further.
Brazing and turning down was not exactly what I was thinking in regard to sealing up the wound temporarily. I was thinking more like silver soldering and carefully honing it down to make it flush with the rod's original plated surface. It is not about strength. It's just about preventing rust/flaking/lifting and saving the seals until a permanent fix can be accomplished.Wayne County Hose said:Braze it and turn it down? Are you kidding me? If you pull that cylinder apart, replace the rod.
Well, the local hydraulic cylinder repair guy went through all my pix and then we talked. To make a long story short, he "dissed" badly the idea of any sort of patch job... albeit later admitting that they don't do that kind of repair even if I wanted it. Instead, he recommended rod replacement (wherein he would cut off the existing rod end and weld it onto a new 2" rod) for $350 to $400.00 soup to nuts (including new seals). I am still waiting for overall cost on the other option: Buying a brand new cylinder rod from Bradco and installing it myself. I was able to get the cost of the seal kit ($53.45) and the bushing (if needed: $47.04)... but for some reason, the cost of the rod itself is apparently top secret.Dougster said:In any case, I'll get the local cylinder repair guy's opinion and costs today. I'll let you know what he says.![]()
Dougster
Dougster said:Well, the local hydraulic cylinder repair guy went through all my pix and then we talked. To make a long story short, he "dissed" badly the idea of any sort of patch job... albeit later admitting that they don't do that kind of repair even if I wanted it. Instead, he recommended rod replacement (wherein he would cut off the existing rod end and weld it onto a new 2" rod) for $350 to $400.00 soup to nuts (including new seals). I am still waiting for overall cost on the other option: Buying a brand new cylinder rod from Bradco and installing it myself. I was able to get the cost of the seal kit ($53.45) and the bushing (if needed: $47.04)... but for some reason, the cost of the rod itself is apparently top secret.![]()
I was able to get a price on a brand new cylinder complete: $850.00 plus tax and shipping.![]()
Dougster
I brought all the pix I had taken plus the cylinder specs: Bore: 3.00", Stroke: 18.38" and Rod diameter: 2.00" I don't know the total length of the rod, but I'm guessing no more than 24". He quoted me $150.00 to $200.00 for the rod itself... so the rest was the seal kit, labor and misc. He talked in generalities about replacing other parts as well, if needed. It didn't seem to matter much to him whether I brought him the whole tractor or just the cylinder.Wayne County Hose said:Dissed the patch idea? Don't blame him, I would to. Rod replacement, $350 to $400? I dunno, but, this depends on the rod's length and diameter. I just did 2 of these repairs for a Cat D3 dozer, both rods were $400. They were 1.5" rods at 20" long each. Maybe I need to raise my prices.
Did you bring him the rod or just show him pics? Chrome rod blank prices vary so much from standard to metric, one size to another. It would be difficult to give an estimate from a pic.
Re-read, my der-da-der. 2" chrome rod is about $4 an inch, 16" minimum. they probably mark up to $7 an inch? Figure about 2 hours shop labor and machining, another .5 to assemble, maybe $40 or so for seals. What can their shop labor rate be, $60 an hour? Based on how many inches of chrome rod you need, do the math.