Drill press problem

   / Drill press problem #1  

BeezFun

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Tractor
Kubota B2710
The arbor on my drill press fell out, when I went to put it back in I realized the slot in the spindle that is supposed to hold the tang on the arbor was rounded out, so the arbor just spins even when it's all the way inserted into the spindle. Here's a picture of the parts from the manual:
1715698051370.png

The problem is I can't figure out how to get the spindle out of the quill so I can either try to repair it or replace it. The photo above shows the chuck (#1), the arbor (#2) and the quill assembly (#3). It doesn't show the spindle as a separate item inside the quill, at least I think it's a separate item. Does anyone know how to get the spindle out of the quill?
 
   / Drill press problem
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Nevermind, I found a youtube video that shows exactly how to do it:

I love the internet.
 
   / Drill press problem #3  
The arbor on my drill press fell out, when I went to put it back in I realized the slot in the spindle that is supposed to hold the tang on the arbor was rounded out, so the arbor just spins even when it's all the way inserted into the spindle. Here's a picture of the parts from the manual:
View attachment 870034
The problem is I can't figure out how to get the spindle out of the quill so I can either try to repair it or replace it. The photo above shows the chuck (#1), the arbor (#2) and the quill assembly (#3). It doesn't show the spindle as a separate item inside the quill, at least I think it's a separate item. Does anyone know how to get the spindle out of the quill?
Generally, it is even simpler than the video, that is for replacing the bearings in the quill.

Make sure that the tang and Morse taper in the drill press are both spotlessly clean. Open your chuck all the way open, or close it onto a large metal dowel resting on the back of the chuck), then if the arbor (Morse taper tang) fell out, you just need to line up the tang, slide it into the slot, hold the taper in, and hit the chuck with a block of wood or a dead blow hammer.

To get it out in the future, you slide a drift into the slot pictured in your diagram.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Drill press problem
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks Peter. I bought this used years ago and it turns out the problem is that the slot in the spindle was damaged at some point by the tang on the arbor. I'm guessing the last guy put the wrong arbor in, or didn't have it all the way in, did the damage, and then got another arbor and chuck to make it work enough to sell it. The arbor pulled out because I drilled a 3/4" hole that grabbed when it went through the bottom of the plate. When I reinserted the arbor, it would just spin even when it was inserted all the way into the spindle. I kludged a fix by putting a small nut on each side of the spindle to restore where the slot used to be and tig welded them in place. It ain't pretty but it works.
 
   / Drill press problem #5  
@BeezFun Nice fix! I like it. What brand is your drill press? What is the arbor? MT2? MT3?

I bought an old drill press that came with a MT1 arbor, and when I priced Morse taper 1 drills and saw the available sizes, I replaced the spindle with a version (34-33C) that supported more typical drills.

All the best,

Peter
 
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   / Drill press problem
  • Thread Starter
#6  
@BeezFun Nice fix! I like it. What brand is your drill press? What is the arbor? MT2? MT3?

I bought an old drill press that came with a MT1 arbor, and when I priced Morse taper 1 drills and saw the available sizes, I replaced the spindle with a version (34-33C) that supported more typical drills.

All the best,

Peter
It's a craftsman, I don't know what the arbor is.
 
   / Drill press problem #7  
It's a craftsman, I don't know what the arbor is.
Just for your information the difference in sizes of the Morse tapers is so great the wrong size cannot be used. Either the tapered arbor won't fit at all or will be so sloppy that there is no way it will be retained. The Morse tapers are known as "locking tapers", which means that when assembled the tapered arbor will lock into into the tapered socket. In fact, the locking is so great that it will prevent the arbor from spinning in the socket during normal operation. The tang is just to prevent the arbor from spinning when way too much force is applied. A proper fitting arbor will not spin in the socket before the motor stalls. If the arbor is allowed to spin even a little before the tang stops the spinning then the arbor, the socket, or both will eventually gall which will ruin the fit. I suspect this is what happened to your drill press. The fit was ruined by a spinning arbor. This can happen when a dirty arbor is inserted, or when a clean arbor is inserted into a dirty socket. Or if both are dirty. Your drill chuck is held onto the arbor by a tapered socket and arbor. The taper is only about 1/2 inch long. It has no tang. Yet it takes all the torque. The upshot is that your socket is probably damaged, most likely galled, and doesn't hold the arbor because the two parts don't fit properly. You may be able to polish out the damage with a stick and fine sand paper. I'm sure there is more than one video on YouTube showing how to repair a damaged Morse taper socket.
Eric
 
   / Drill press problem
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Thanks Eric,
The surfaces on the arbor and spindle were both like mirrors, there was no evidence of any damage. They did fit very tight and I've been using it for year without spinning the arbor. But I drilled a 3/4" hole and the bit grabbed when it was going through, that's what caused the arbor to spin and that's why I took it apart to see what was going on.
 
   / Drill press problem #9  
Thanks Eric,
The surfaces on the arbor and spindle were both like mirrors, there was no evidence of any damage. They did fit very tight and I've been using it for year without spinning the arbor. But I drilled a 3/4" hole and the bit grabbed when it was going through, that's what caused the arbor to spin and that's why I took it apart to see what was going on.
That's good about the fit. Since the arbor spun in the socket from the 3/4 drill you should check the arbor and socket for damage. When you put the arbor into the socket it should be done so rather smartly. You know, quick and with some force. And then it should exhibit no run out, no wobble. If it does wobble or run out then you should inspect the arbor and the socket for any high spots.
Cheers,
Eric
 
 
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