Driveway Gate - 'how to' questions and a challenge

[tractchores]

Just found this video regarding drilling under a driveway. Not sure what machine is being used here, but this technique may solve my wiring problem between the columns, especially if I keep the wire close to the pavement where there are no boulders (code allows it to be shallower under a hard surface like pavement).

How to tunnel under driveway for lawn sprinkler system. - YouTube

I like the subsoiler idea, that may be a nice way to run the cables. I'll have to see if there is any code thing that requires an open trench for inspection. That would certainly save me a LOT of digging!

 

[Jimbrown]

If you don't want to dig the trench for control wires have you considered a sliding type gate. I personally don't like them but they work. My openers run on 12 volts. Even if you run power all you are doing is pluggin in a small wallwart charger about half an amp I think.

 

[brin]

Just found this video regarding drilling under a driveway. Not sure what machine is being used here, but this technique may solve my wiring problem between the columns, especially if I keep the wire close to the pavement where there are no boulders (code allows it to be shallower under a hard surface like pavement).

How to tunnel under driveway for lawn sprinkler system. - YouTube

I like the subsoiler idea, that may be a nice way to run the cables. I'll have to see if there is any code thing that requires an open trench for inspection. That would certainly save me a LOT of digging!

On your lack of sunlight for solar...have you thought about mounting the solar panel where there is sufficient sunlight and running the correct size wire to your gate ...? If it is a shorter distance than running electric it might be worth considering...just a thought.

 

[Soundguy]

On your lack of sunlight for solar...have you thought about mounting the solar panel where there is sufficient sunlight and running the correct size wire to your gate ...? If it is a shorter distance than running electric it might be worth considering...just a thought.

i agree. many people in the woods that do satalite tv like dish / direct mount the dish on poles.. etc. same could be done with t he solar panel.

panels are so low wattage that wire size won't be an issue..

rodding under the driveway via water is easy too...

 

[Coyote machine]

For digging in hard rocky soil consider this, IF you have a TLB. It is a ripper tooth for breaking tree roots from cut tree stumps, etc. Though not inexpensive, it serves many purposes if you have a need for digging and laying trenches, etc. I have one with the serrated edges, which they also make on request. It works great. Backhoe Ripper Tooth

 

[MotorSeven]

I will be putting in a solar gate soon. 100% agree with Jim that 12' is too small.....go 16' minimum. We have had a couple of trespassers, but the real issue is "pop-ins"......my wife and I really hate the pop-ins:

The pop In - YouTube

 

[brin]

I will be putting in a solar gate soon. 100% agree with Jim that 12' is too small.....go 16' minimum. We have had a couple of trespassers, but the real issue is "pop-ins"......my wife and I really hate the pop-ins:

The pop In - YouTube

LOL - ever notice pop ins generally don't know how to pop out...Ugggg !

 

[TnAndy]

Built mine 25 years back. Sunk a couple of 8" x 10' I beams from the scrap yard in about 4yds of concrete on each side, then laid the field stone around them. Welded some square tubing on the I beam, which holds the gate hinges ( 3 points on each ). Built the gates out of square tubing and some flat bar for the curved part. Gates are 10' wide, each. You can get by with a single 12' gate IF your entry and driveway are STRAIGHT.....mine aren't, and sometimes 20' is a tight fit with a long trailer. Recently had a tractor/trailer come deliver something, and he had a 48' trailer.....barely made it !


Used Genie brand linear actuator type openers at first.....complete pcs of junk, they don't even make them anymore. Any static electricity would pop the circuit boards in them at $75/ea.

Later went with a pair of OSCO brand openers ....GREAT opener....100% mechanical switching, not an integrated circuit on it. It's the "arm" type opener, using a 1/2hp motor and gear reduction box. Can't recommend them highly enough. Virtually no problems in 20 years.

For power, I ran a couple of #6 hots, 1 #6 neutral and a ground, a total of 900' , and it runs the gates with no problem + a security light on a motion detector. You CAN also run control wiring that far, all it takes is a couple #14, and some phone wire if you want a speaker. I didn't, but a buddy of mine just did over a longer distance than that. I used a subsoiler, then went back over it with a 'middle buster' plow to open it up more....I ran it all in PVC conduit just for protection, as it's only about 12" deep...but I ran down thru the woods where nothing ever disturbs it either. I also put a "pull box" ever couple hundred feet, turning a PVC 90 up, and into a PVC box, then back out to the next one.

As for getting under a drive, get a backhoe to come dig a hole on one side, then it can push a capped pc of 1-2" steel pipe under the driveway. Unscrew the cap, and you have an in place conduit. Water company does it all the time to put a meter on one side of a road where the supply line is on the other.

 

[tractchores]

Built mine 25 years back. Sunk a couple of 8" x 10' I beams from the scrap yard in about 4yds of concrete on each side, then laid the field stone around them. Welded some square tubing on the I beam, which holds the gate hinges ( 3 points on each ). Built the gates out of square tubing and some flat bar for the curved part. Gates are 10' wide, each. You can get by with a single 12' gate IF your entry and driveway are STRAIGHT.....mine aren't, and sometimes 20' is a tight fit with a long trailer. Recently had a tractor/trailer come deliver something, and he had a 48' trailer.....barely made it !


Used Genie brand linear actuator type openers at first.....complete pcs of junk, they don't even make them anymore. Any static electricity would pop the circuit boards in them at $75/ea.

Later went with a pair of OSCO brand openers ....GREAT opener....100% mechanical switching, not an integrated circuit on it. It's the "arm" type opener, using a 1/2hp motor and gear reduction box. Can't recommend them highly enough. Virtually no problems in 20 years.

For power, I ran a couple of #6 hots, 1 #6 neutral and a ground, a total of 900' , and it runs the gates with no problem + a security light on a motion detector. You CAN also run control wiring that far, all it takes is a couple #14, and some phone wire if you want a speaker. I didn't, but a buddy of mine just did over a longer distance than that. I used a subsoiler, then went back over it with a 'middle buster' plow to open it up more....I ran it all in PVC conduit just for protection, as it's only about 12" deep...but I ran down thru the woods where nothing ever disturbs it either. I also put a "pull box" ever couple hundred feet, turning a PVC 90 up, and into a PVC box, then back out to the next one.

As for getting under a drive, get a backhoe to come dig a hole on one side, then it can push a capped pc of 1-2" steel pipe under the driveway. Unscrew the cap, and you have an in place conduit. Water company does it all the time to put a meter on one side of a road where the supply line is on the other.

Thanks, great info and nice gate. I like the walls on either side and am after a similar style. On the width I should mention that this is on a straight section of road coming in, the road ends in my drive so there is no turn at all and at least 100' or more straight on either side of the gate, so turning won't be an issue. Anything that can't fit 12' wide on a straight away definitely isn't making it down the road (which does have turns and is 10' wide at places with big trees right up to the edge).

The opener info is good as well, I'll want to get a good brand and run big wire if I'm doing it from the house. With the subsoiler idea that may be an easier task than I thought as long as the town doesn't object permit wise. Unfortunately a remote solar panel won't buy me much (may save 100') as the property is mature forest until you get right to the house.

 

[cisco]

Seems many of us have faced this issue. If all you're trenching for is electrical stuff, a subsoiler will work, either with a store bought extension for feeding cable or homemade (which I used) of gently curved metal conduit mounted on the back of the subsoiler with U-clamps. Yeah, it'll be "fun" when you hit major rocks, and you may have to make multiple passes, each progressively deeper until getting to the level when you lay in the cable, but it'll work unless you hit an underground mountain - sturdy subsoiler, SLOW tractor speed, 4WD. Yeah, I know 18" may be code in your area, but......none of us will tell if you only go 12". Run EVERY type of cable you can imagine in the trench before covering it up, cause no way you want to be there again. So, positive/negative/ground lines of appropriate size (amp loss tables over distance are readily available on line - do you want the possibility of a gate or address poll light?), and then consider a phone line for intercom...and if putting in 1 place 2 instead "just in case" or use CAT 6 (sufficient small wires for just about anything - hey, you can get a video image of your visitors).