chim
Elite Member
Another guy who used fiberglass sticks and a cordless drill here
Driveway markers
- Thread starter dj1701
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snymat68
Platinum Member
Whether fiberglass sticks or rebar, I like the drill-and-insert method some of you guys use for hard ground. Never would have thought to drill first, but it makes complete sense. This is why I like this forum, always something to learn. :thumbsup:
shooterdon
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In my case, fiberglass rods allow me to remove them in the summer so I do not have to weed whip around them. Also, I only need them in case we get a big dump early in the season and cannot see where the drive and grass meet. Once I start clearing snow off the drive, it is obvious where the edge is.
Budweiser John
Platinum Member
To improve visibility, and I need all the help I can get, I take a case of spent plastic water bottles and spray them bright orange.
I then take the painted bottles and put them over the fiberglass posts bottom side up. Much easier to see in blowing snow and the bottles will stay put all season long with a little electrical tape or duct tape.
B. John
I then take the painted bottles and put them over the fiberglass posts bottom side up. Much easier to see in blowing snow and the bottles will stay put all season long with a little electrical tape or duct tape.
B. John
Same for me, but they are also critical in the late season for those heavy March snows after everything was melted off.
When I put them out in the fall, it's less than exciting since they are the sign of things to come. But come spring, when we make the call and decide "I think we can finally pull the stakes", it's a good feeling.
chim
Elite Member
Reminds me of seeing a similar even easier method. The guy used empty Coke cans. They looked as though he half crushed them and the re-straightened them. That gave them a bunch of facets for headlights to be reflected back at night.
Quebecguy
Gold Member
I use old ski poles which are free at the Lost & Found Dept. at the local ski hill. A few taps with a hatchet and the baskets come right off. I haven't had any need for reflective tape etc. The aluminum poles bend before damaging a vehicle if a guest driver bumps his vehicle into them.
aczlan
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I also use 1/2 black iron pipe, but I ended up needing to use a schedule 80 cap as I blew apart a schedule 40 one (knocked the end out of the cap).
Aaron Z
Just to clarify how I use the pipe to drive the fiberglass rods... I just push them in until the pipe hits the ground. That way I know how deep they are set, and the pipe keeps the rods from flexing. I've never used the pipe like a fence post driver to tap them in, however I can see how that would work using a schedule 40 steel pipe for driving rebar stakes.
Scrambler82
Veteran Member
:thumbsup: :drink:
Added:
I was thinking of ReBar Stakes and using it as a Post Driver... instead of drilling a hole in the ground; not that that idea wouldn't work well out here in cement ground country.
I f PVC or Fiberglass were to be used, drilling would have to be used.
I used to drive a short piece of rebar, drive it in, hit to the sides to loosen, pull it out, if I can, then push in what ever stack I am using, again if I can, and tamp down the dirt and hope it stays in place.
Using the Post Driver idea with a Driver Tube a little larger than the rebar will make thing easier overall.
Thanks to all in this threads for the ideas, all great, as was said above, "One of the GREAT things about this Site are the ideas you come away with".
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ruffdog
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I have a post pounder I use for the t-posts and I made a smaller post pounder for the fiberglass stakes. Two feet of black pipe with a cap drives them unless you hit a rock. A colorful beer/soda can stuck on top of the fiberglass post works great as a marker.
Fallon
Super Member
How long to the fiberglass rods last most people? The 2-3 batches I have get nasty after 1 season. Glass fibers hanging out like a porcupine. Touch them without a glove (or sometimes even with one) an your hand is itching for days.
ruffdog
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^^^Yes, this is the MAJOR problem with the fiberglass rods. I have an old pair of heavy welding gloves that I handle them with. Even then, I don't slide my hands along the length.
Most of mine are 12 years old and still have the vinyl caps on top. I don't hammer them in, so they are not splintered at all. A few years ago they were getting really faded so I spray painted them orange and they are almost like new. I don't leave them out year round though, only 5 months during the winter.
Fallon
Super Member
What brand? They sound pretty decent.
I'm up here in Colorado, so we get more UV in 1 winter than most of you get in a year or 3. The whole length of the rods gets fuzzy from the glass fibers as the epoxy gets destroyed from the UV. It's the UV causing my issues, not mechanical damage splintering the rods.
Scrambler82
Veteran Member
Just a thought... if you get a splinter of glass or wood, even metal, use the edge of your knife, slide it sideways over the splinter.
If you know the direction if insertion the better, slide it opposite of the insertion, but if you go over it both ways you can get lucky and the edge of the blade pulls out the splinter.
Works for me !
wheelbuilder
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I use a dry bar of soap to pull out fiberglas. Make sure you chuck it and don't wash with it. The little ones from a hotel work well.
oosik
Epic Contributor
What happened to dj1701? Lost in a snow drift? Anyhow - I don't need markers to find my driveway. Even in the deepest snows. Markers are just going to get plowed - along with the snow, anyhow. I plow when there is, at least, eight inches & the driveway is somewhat frozen. Otherwise - I just drive thru the snow and don't worry about it.
The first plowing will establish the outer edges of the driveway. I work from this set boundary on future plowings.
The first plowing will establish the outer edges of the driveway. I work from this set boundary on future plowings.
chim
Elite Member
I seldom get off course on the paved main driveway. Where markers are helpful for me is on the long curved unpaved driveway that goes to the sheds. It is not paved but solid enough to handle heavy trucks in any weather. It is flush with the yard and has a mixture of grass and weeds that can make it almost disappear at times in the Summer. Having lived here for almost 30 years I still have a hard time finding it when it snows if there aren't markers.
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Boondox
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I don't need them early in the winter, but as snow accumulates it becomes difficult to see the edge of the drainage ditches. Plus coming home in the dark during a snow storm it makes it easier for my wife to follow the long curve of our 600 yard long driveway. My method of inserting them is to plant them before the ground freezes. I have a big Phillips screwdriver that I've never used; it gets pushed or hammered into the ground then pulled out. The fiberglass marker is pushed into the hole using gloves. My markers are about 5-6 years old now and doing fine aside from a bit of fading.
