Driving a New Well

   / Driving a New Well #1  

foggy1111

Elite Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2008
Messages
2,642
Location
Nisswa, MN
Tractor
Kubota L 3560 HSTC, 805 Loader
We just finished driving a new sand point well. Its 21 feet deep and has about 12 feet of water in the pipe. My soil is quite sandy...very few rocks and I have swamp land on three sides of my site....almost assuring water is available (?).

I started by vacuuming a 2 1/2" diameter hole with my shop vac to a depth of aobut 4 feet. I ran into about two roots....so I used a length of pipe to cut through the small roots and continued to vac. This only took a few minutes and I had a very clean and staight starter hole....no problems.

I then attached my ss sand point to lenghts of 5 foot pipe using pipe joint compound and drive coulplings. THEN...the best 50 bucks I spent was to rent a 40 lb electrice jack hammmer and the needed well fittings to drive the pipe. I checked for level and I tightened the pipes after about every foot of driving. Driving all the pipe took about an hours time....and went smoothly. Even my wife could run the jack hammer if I lifted it in place for her. :thumbsup:

After pumping cold clear water with the pitcher pump....I purchased a jet pump and an expansion tank. Really working slick (after having an air leak problem with one fitting) and I pump a five gallon bucket in no time flat!!!

Was a fun project....followed some intructions found on this site and via a google search.
 

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   / Driving a New Well
  • Thread Starter
#2  
a few more pics.... I figure with the point, pipe, joints, pump(s), and all materials, that Ihave invested about $700 in the end product. All that is left now is to trench in a wire and get a GFI circuit installed.
 

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   / Driving a New Well #3  
That worked out well for you. Sorry about the pun, :D sort of. Great idea to have the picnic table and jackhammer. Nice pics. :thumbsup: If you are in sand I would suspect you are getting nice clear water. :licking: Our first well, on anther property we built a house on in 1980, was all through sand/gravel. Swear we could have bottled the stuff. Good going on the well and all in around an hour. :drink:
 
   / Driving a New Well #4  
foggy,, What are you getting for gal. per min. ??? I'm thinking about doing the same to feed my pond ??
 
   / Driving a New Well
  • Thread Starter
#5  
foggy,, What are you getting for gal. per min. ??? I'm thinking about doing the same to feed my pond ??

I did not do a test of gals per minute. But I have a very strong flow of water....more than I get out of my city water faucent. I'm going to my land today to water my seedlings.....and will give the flow a check.

Its sure nice to not have to haul water via a trailer and tank. :thumbsup::D

I forgot to mention that the last pic showing the pump and hose is not really the end product. I replaced the Tee fitting at the top of the well pipe with an elbow (as the tee plug leaked air). Then I replaced the 12" horizontal pipe with two 6" pipes and coupled them in the middle with a full union. Now I can remove my pump for repairs or winter storage.
 
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   / Driving a New Well
  • Thread Starter
#6  
foggy,, What are you getting for gal. per min. ??? I'm thinking about doing the same to feed my pond ??

I checked it today while filling pails to water my seedlings. I am getting just less than 10 gallons a minute.

Here is the final configuration of the well and pump. I added a coupling to allow removing the pump for winter storage. I also removed the Tee fitting and replaced it with an elbow....as the Tee was leaking air. The the large brass check valve sits just before the 90 degree elbow to allow pump start-ups without priming.
 

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   / Driving a New Well #7  
I checked it today while filling pails to water my seedlings. I am getting just less than 10 gallons a minute.

Here is the final configuration of the well and pump. I added a coupling to allow removing the pump for winter storage. I also removed the Tee fitting and replaced it with an elbow....as the Tee was leaking air. The the large brass check valve sits just before the 90 degree elbow to allow pump start-ups without priming.

Smart to think of being able to take it off for the winter. 10 gallons a minute is pretty good, lots of folks would like to have that much. Now you can have a cold one from the tap. :laughing::laughing:
 
   / Driving a New Well #8  
Thanks Foggy.. Another question,, I see the jug of water,,Do you have to prime when you use it or is there a foot valve??
 
   / Driving a New Well
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks Foggy.. Another question,, I see the jug of water,,Do you have to prime when you use it or is there a foot valve??

That jug is just left over from the first priming(s). (Just saving it "in case" for a few days.) The only valve is the brass check valve shown at the top of the well. This eliminates the need for priming as the well pump keeps under pressure when the water is shut off.

A foot valve is used when you have bigger pipe (this pipe is all 1 1/4")....and typically a deeper well than this. There would be no way to get a foot valve into play with a driven well like mine (that I know of). About the deepest you can get my set up to work is 25 feet deep....thus by definition this is a shallow well. From what I have read.....a deep well is any well over 25 feet deep.
 
   / Driving a New Well
  • Thread Starter
#10  
As a footnote.....my well is on my hunting land. When I left the property ten days ago the pressure in the well tank was 44 lbs. When I came back it was 43 lbs....with no power to the well in my absence. I ran my power cord to the pump and plugged it in. No prime.....just water at the turn of the spicket. :thumbsup:

Now that everything seems to be reliable I plan to trench in a GFI wire and get it finished correctly. I built a small enclosure from treated plywood to protect the pump and shield the elements.

It was such a pleasure to pump buckets of water for my seedlings without a care for my supply. I like when projects go so smoothly. Pardon my gloating. :D :D
 

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