Drop valve knob stuck

[gregz]

Hi guys another question, I will have many. On my bx2350 I cannot turn the 3pt drop knob, it is froze. There is no way possible to see the shaft where it enters the transmission to soak it with penetrating oil, the fuel tank is in the way. I removed the cigarette/12v aux port and have been trying to squirt some penetrating oil from there. Any suggestions how to free this up. Thanks

 

[BX23S-1]

Can you get a strap wrench around the knob, maybe apply some extra pressure to get it moving back an forth?

 

[5030]

You are going to have to take it apart to access the needle valve that controls the bypass oil flow to the 3PH. Depending on model, either the shaft is frozen or the valve is stuck and reefing on the knob will only break the knob, not free the valve. I work mine (on my M's) regularly to keep them from locking up.

 

[BX23S-1]

You are going to have to take it apart to access the needle valve that controls the bypass oil flow to the 3PH. Depending on model, either the shaft is frozen or the valve is stuck and reefing on the knob will only break the knob, not free the valve. I work mine (on my M's) regularly to keep them from locking up.

Sounds expensive

 

[gregz]

Hopefully not expensive. Right now the 3pt works fine, just can't adjust the drop speed. My guess never used. I did find similar situations and seems I need to soak it w penetrating and have patience.

Found this post from google search on orange tractor site

Default Re: BX2350. Three point linkage problem
The knob under the seat that controls the speed of how fast the 3 point arms lower also keeps the 3 point arms from lowering if the knob is fully closed (turned fully clockwise). If that knob is frozen, you may need to get under the tractor and spray the knob shaft with some penetrating oil and tap the knob shaft LIGHTLY with a hammer to loosen it up enough to get it to turn. When I say tap LIGHTLY with a hammer, I mean just enough to get the knob to vibrate a little to work any rust loose. Keep the knob shaft wet with penetrating oil, keep trying to work the knob loose and be patient. It may have been locked in position for several years and is now just needing some coaxing to get it to work loose.

 

[BX23S-1]

Hopefully not expensive. Right now the 3pt works fine, just can't adjust the drop speed. My guess never used. I did find similar situations and seems I need to soak it w penetrating and have patience.

Found this post from google search on orange tractor site

Default Re: BX2350. Three point linkage problem
The knob under the seat that controls the speed of how fast the 3 point arms lower also keeps the 3 point arms from lowering if the knob is fully closed (turned fully clockwise). If that knob is frozen, you may need to get under the tractor and spray the knob shaft with some penetrating oil and tap the knob shaft LIGHTLY with a hammer to loosen it up enough to get it to turn. When I say tap LIGHTLY with a hammer, I mean just enough to get the knob to vibrate a little to work any rust loose. Keep the knob shaft wet with penetrating oil, keep trying to work the knob loose and be patient. It may have been locked in position for several years and is now just needing some coaxing to get it to work loose.

Well i would certainly try that first. Got nothing to lose at that point, but hopefully something to gain if it gets it moving for you. Thats why i asked if you couldn`t give it a little bit of turning pressure with a strap wrench along with some penetrating oil.

 

[5030]

Sounds expensive

Not really. More time consuming. To access the needle valve that controls the fluid bypass, you need to take stuff apart like the seat and or in a cab application, the access plate off (my cab M's have an access plate below the seat base to access the shaft and valve. The lowering valve is threaded into the upper arm casting on top the upper transmission case and diverts the flow ( or stops it) depending on if it's closed or open and with non use, it gets crudded up and locks, causing the knob to become inoperative. The knob us plastic. Some are secured with a roll pin, some slip on the shaft and engage the roll pin with a detent but applying undue force to the knob in an attempt to free the valve will result in a busted knob.

The proper solution is to access the valve and linkage rod directly and free it up and then apply anti-seize to the threads and (in my case), the universal joint in the shaft. I slipped a length of rubber hose over the joint, filled with grease, to keep the joint lubricated, Different models have different actuator linkages depending on the angle the linkage shaft is at.

After going through that ordeal, I rotate the knob regularly now. Regular use prevents it from seizing.

Not a good design in reality but it's there anyway so it might as well work correctly.

 

[5030]

Hopefully not expensive. Right now the 3pt works fine, just can't adjust the drop speed. My guess never used. I did find similar situations and seems I need to soak it w penetrating and have patience.

Found this post from google search on orange tractor site

Default Re: BX2350. Three point linkage problem
The knob under the seat that controls the speed of how fast the 3 point arms lower also keeps the 3 point arms from lowering if the knob is fully closed (turned fully clockwise). If that knob is frozen, you may need to get under the tractor and spray the knob shaft with some penetrating oil and tap the knob shaft LIGHTLY with a hammer to loosen it up enough to get it to turn. When I say tap LIGHTLY with a hammer, I mean just enough to get the knob to vibrate a little to work any rust loose. Keep the knob shaft wet with penetrating oil, keep trying to work the knob loose and be patient. It may have been locked in position for several years and is now just needing some coaxing to get it to work loose.

I'd be extremely careful about tapping on the end of the shaft to free the needle valve in as much as the valve is brass and soft so tapping on the end could destroy the threads where it engages the valve body. The best cure is direct access to the valve and putting anti-seize on the threads, lubricating the linkage and using it regularly. Besides, tapping on the plastic knob will break it. Knowing Kubota, the cost of the replacement valve won't be a cheap date and of you bugger up the valve, removal will entail removal of the entire upper casting that carries the upper 3 point arms, an involved procedure.

It don't rust, it locks because of the crud that collects under the seat / tin on top the transmission case. No matter how careful you are about keeping your unit clean, the top of the case is not really accessable so junk collects there and eventually causes the lowering valve to lock up.

 

[chim]

I'd be extremely careful about tapping on the end of the shaft to free the needle valve in as much as the valve is brass and soft so tapping on the end could destroy the threads where it engages the valve body. ....................

Good input. You need to know what you're working with. "Tapping" means using different sized hammers for different applications. I still use an old tablespoon as a hammer to drive some small pins on guns. A sharp rap with a very light "hammer" works better than a 16 ounce claw hammer. Coaxing some of the larger things into place that I work on is best done with a 10 pounder.

 

[gregz]

Trust me I don't plan on whacking it with a hammer. If i can't free it up with PB blaster and turning by hand I will leave it be. The mmm and the 3pt work just fine for my needs, they both go up and down although I would like it to be functional. cheers

 

[Tractor Seabee]

The knob breaks easy, I know the hard way. Shop foreman at my dealers told me it is common and said they get some that owners tried to loosen and it can be a big bill depending on the damage done. He also stated they never try to loosen, just disassemble, clean, lube and re-assemble. Stated there is more labor in removing the sat and floor pan and re-installing than the fix its self. He quoted NTE $400 if no parts required, all labor. They are a T&M shop. There labor is 125/hr.

I am still using as is. Lowering speed is OK. Saving the job for when I put in my shop for some other stuff and do then myself.

Ron

 

[5030]

On cab models, Kubota provides an access plate below the seat pan that the shaft passes through. The knob can be removed by punching out the roll pin with a correct sized drift and twisting it back and forth (tight fit on the shaft) and then removing the 4 bolts and removing the access plate to gain access to the shaft, the flex joint (if it has one) and the valve., Not so lucky on an open station tractor where the shaft passes through the seat pan (tin) and the only option is to remove the seat pan (tin) to gain access or remove the right side wheel and rim and control cables to gain access to the shaft and valve and it's still a restricted access. Been there and did both because I have both models, open station and cab and again, my recommendation is...

If it works properly, use it often to keep it freed up. Only takes a partial turn to keep it moving. I do that everytime I use either tractor when I get in the seat.

 

[gregz]

No disassembly or hammer required. I removed rr tire so I can see where the shaft enters the HST and sprayed some Kroil ( orange can) in that area. Soak repeat for and hour or so. With some channel locks squeezed between the fuel tank and body I was able to grip the shaft firmly and free it up. Knob/shaft spins nice and smooth now, must have caught it just in time. Now on to the next issue, I'm sure I'll find something. Cheers gregz

 

[BX23S-1]

No disassembly or hammer required. I removed rr tire so I can see where the shaft enters the HST and sprayed some Kroil ( orange can) in that area. Soak repeat for and hour or so. With some channel locks squeezed between the fuel tank and body I was able to grip the shaft firmly and free it up. Knob/shaft spins nice and smooth now, must have caught it just in time. Now on to the next issue, I'm sure I'll find something. Cheers gregz

Awesome, you got it working! Saved yourself form the dealership labor grief.

 

[5030]

No disassembly or hammer required. I removed rr tire so I can see where the shaft enters the HST and sprayed some Kroil ( orange can) in that area. Soak repeat for and hour or so. With some channel locks squeezed between the fuel tank and body I was able to grip the shaft firmly and free it up. Knob/shaft spins nice and smooth now, must have caught it just in time. Now on to the next issue, I'm sure I'll find something. Cheers gregz

Nice to be able to remove a tire and rim to access the shaft. On my M's. tire and rim removal is a 2 man, possibly 3 man job in as much as each tire and rim assembly weighs over 600 pounds and that isn't loaded either. When you remove it, it has to be kept vertical at all times. If it gets even slightly out of vertical, better stand back and let it flop and keep your feet clear or the tire and rim will break your foot on the way down.

Been there did that and had to stand it back up using another tractor and forks.

The shaft don't enter the transmission, it engages the flow control valve that is threaded into the upper arm casting. The HST is well below it.

Turn it often and you won't have a recurring issue.