dumb question about TYM rear remotes

[skid mark]

I've never had a tractor with rear remotes, and was wondering: Do they work like loader joystick, or lift arm control?

With loader joystick, a little pressure on the stick will cause the loader to move and keep moving (until you release the pressure). This gives full range of motion of the loader with very little movement of the joystick.

With the lift arm control, if you move the lever a bit, the 3pt arms will move and then stop at "the desired spot". This requires full movement of the lever to get full range of motion in lift arms.

I also read that rear remotes are sometimes "detent" and sometimes "return to center".

I'm thinking about buying a stump grinder that uses rear remotes to swing and lift. Not sure what would be better for the stump grinder where I'd like to be able to move the grinder head to a specified position and have it stay there without my needing to hold a lever in place.

 

[ptsg]

The rear remotes work just like the loader valve. Push a little bit to feather the controls, or push all the way to go full speed.

Detent means that you can lock the lever in place to provide constant flow to something, like a backhoe.

Return to center means the lever goes back to center once you take your hand out of it. This is what you want to control a cylinder, like swing and lift on a stump grinder.

 

[skid mark]

Thanks a lot ptsg, you are always very helpful.

A related (and also dumb) question: when I picked up my tractor, dealer warned me about leaving remote lever not centered because if the lever is off center, that circuit is a "dead end" and the control valve would pressurize it and I could burn up my pump. Based on what you posted, I guess that this is only possible with the "detent" lever.

I nodded and pretended to understand, but I really didn't. If opening the valve allows pressure to go into the dead end circuit, then doesn't that mean that that same harmful pressure is in the hose leading to the valve?

Another way of saying it is "I don't see the difference between a closed valve and an open valve connected to a dead end hose".

 

[Engineer42]

Just a thought, if you are adding rear remotes, add one more than you need, if possible.

 

[ptsg]

Thanks a lot ptsg, you are always very helpful.

A related (and also dumb) question: when I picked up my tractor, dealer warned me about leaving remote lever not centered because if the lever is off center, that circuit is a "dead end" and the control valve would pressurize it and I could burn up my pump. Based on what you posted, I guess that this is only possible with the "detent" lever.

I nodded and pretended to understand, but I really didn't. If opening the valve allows pressure to go into the dead end circuit, then doesn't that mean that that same harmful pressure is in the hose leading to the valve?

Another way of saying it is "I don't see the difference between a closed valve and an open valve connected to a dead end hose".

So "deadheading" a pump as it's often called meanings there is something blocking the flow of the fluid.

When this happens, the fluid is being bypassed through the relief valve at max system pressure and depending on the engine RPM, it could be at max flow as well.

This process causes heat build up, which eventually will damage the pumps as it exceeds the working temperature of the fluid.

This is only an issue if done for long periods of time, like hours and hours of working the tractor with the lever stuck in detent.

Deadheading the pump actually happens fairly often when operating the tractor. Everytime you reach the end of the stroke on a cylinder, it's essentially deadheading the pump, however the operator notices it and pulls back on the lever, so it's only a couple of second a which is no issue at all.

On most compact tractors, the remote valve is located before the 3pt hitch valve on the hydraulic circuit. So if the remote lever is stuck on detent, the 3pt hitch won't raise because there is no flow going to it.

 

[grsthegreat]

To prevent deadheading a remote with a detent ball, i installed a loop of hose with 2 quick disconnects. I use this valve to operate my log splitter. I want the detent to lock the valve open so my external valve on the splitter controls in and out of the cylinder. When the splitter is off the unit, im installing the loop of hose. I removed the detent in the other rear remote to operate my hydraulic top link.

 

[skid mark]

To prevent deadheading a remote with a detent ball, i installed a loop of hose with 2 quick disconnects.

Hey, that's a good idea. Are those ready made, or did you just have your local hydraulic hose guys make one up. If the latter, is there a more technical name for the hose ends than "tractor quick connect male adapter"?

 

[grsthegreat]

I just had my local hose shop make it. I gave them the coupler number, they made it

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Thanks a lot ptsg, you are always very helpful.

A related (and also dumb) question: when I picked up my tractor, dealer warned me about leaving remote lever not centered because if the lever is off center, that circuit is a "dead end" and the control valve would pressurize it and I could burn up my pump. Based on what you posted, I guess that this is only possible with the "detent" lever.

I nodded and pretended to understand, but I really didn't. If opening the valve allows pressure to go into the dead end circuit, then doesn't that mean that that same harmful pressure is in the hose leading to the valve?

Another way of saying it is "I don't see the difference between a closed valve and an open valve connected to a dead end hose".

Typically, the pressure relief is in the loader valve, and the remote is downstream from that. So, if you leave it dead headed, the fluid just flows out of the loader valve and will go out of the loader valve in the return to tank line. On the smaller TYMs, if the rear remote is not in center, you can't operate the 3-point lift.

The rear remotes are plumbed into the power beyond line from the loader valve. If you don't have the rear remote(s) installed the flow goes into hydraulics for the 3-point. If you install a rear remote kit, the power beyond valve goes into the top of the rear remote valve, which is ahead of the 3-point. So, if you don't have flow through the rear remote, then the 3-point doesn't work. I was really confused, the first time I accidentally bumped the detent style rear remote handle with my leg, and my three-point wouldn't raise.

I bought a couple of spare loader valves off a guy on eBay, and intend to use one, plumbed in series in the power beyond line to do top and tilt for the 3-point.