Dump trailer hydraulics

[jenkinsph]

To solve the mystery,remove the rod end hose and raise the bed.

If there is fluid on the rod side, it should flow out the rod end port. If you hold the lever in the raise position, if the seals are leaking, fluid will continue to flow out, and that is bad.

You then need a rebuild or reseal. Then reinstall the breather plug.

I agree with JJ on this, check it out and fix it if it needs it.

Did you install the new pump kit yet?

 

[1gr8bldr]

Took the old pump off tonight. I was not lucky. The fitting from the old hydraulic line does not work on the new pump. So, I have to find one that fits........ The pump recomends dexIII fluid. Since it takes much to fill it I purchased cheap "travelers" brand from TSC. I have not used it yet. I got to thinking that I should have done the opposite and purchased a hi quality dexIII. What do you think?

 

[1gr8bldr]

I figure that instead of unhooking the return line from the ram, I will leave it attached and have a bucket ready in case fluid is getting through. This way I can save it rather than spray it

 

[Xfaxman]

To solve the mystery,remove the rod end hose and raise the bed.

If there is fluid on the rod side, it should flow out the rod end port. If you hold the lever in the raise position, if the seals are leaking, fluid will continue to flow out, and that is bad.

You then need a rebuild or reseal. Then reinstall the breather plug.

Took the old pump off tonight. I was not lucky. The fitting from the old hydraulic line does not work on the new pump. So, I have to find one that fits........ The pump recomends dexIII fluid. Since it takes much to fill it I purchased cheap "travelers" brand from TSC. I have not used it yet. I got to thinking that I should have done the opposite and purchased a hi quality dexIII. What do you think?

I think you should have tested it like J. J. suggested, the old pump may be good.

For this system Travelers brand is ok.

TSC has hydraulic fittings, also NAPA.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

 

[1gr8bldr]

I think you should have tested it like J. J. suggested, the old pump may be good.

For this system Travelers brand is ok.

TSC has hydraulic fittings, also NAPA.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

The old pump reservior will not hold fluid. I can see what seems to be a big 0 ring blown out from in between the reservior and the pump. Probably all that was needed to fix it, along with an air vent..... but I do not have time to fix it. It has to be on a job site tuesday morning.

 

[1gr8bldr]

I think you should have tested it like J. J. suggested, the old pump may be good.

For this system Travelers brand is ok.

TSC has hydraulic fittings, also NAPA.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

The old pump reservior will not hold fluid. I can see what seems to be a big 0 ring blown out from in between the reservior and the pump. Probably all that was needed to fix it, along with an air vent..... but I do not have time to fix it. It has to be on a job site tuesday morning.

 

[1gr8bldr]

I would like to thank all of you who offered advice about my dump trailer fix. It seems to be working well although I have not raised it up past 1/4 since it is not hooked up to my truck and it is loaded. It seems to come down hard... yet I have never seen it come down loaded because it has dumped it's load before returning. I had to do some fabricating because the beam below for mounting was not wide enough for the larger size reservoir. So far, although not raised all the way yet, no fluid is coming out of the upper port of the ram. The old pump should be fine. I will keep it. Who knows, I might build something and use it. It probably just needs a new seal between the reservoir and pump.... and most of all... a breather. Now that I understand what I was working on, a breather was what I needed. More reserve would have helped but was not the problem. I always learn something when something gets fixed. Thanks for all the help.

 

[jenkinsph]

Let us know how it works out after you use it Tuesday. Good luck with it.

 

[1gr8bldr]

Had to unload the trailer today to be empty for next job. LOL, I'm glad it worked well, I was loaded. I went up strong all the way until it reached its max. Never seen it go that far. I had taken the hose that originally went from the top of the ram to the reserve and strapped it to the bottom of the frame next to the controls. I had a bucket ready in case fluid was getting by the seals. It was but not much. Maybe... 3/4 of a can drink. So since it was strong going up, I think I will run this line back to the reserve tank. But this time pipe it into the correct fitting to leave my breather functional.

 

[Xfaxman]

:thumbsup: Sounds good.

 

[1gr8bldr]

While I'm working on it, LOL, I put off my job till next monday. I saw where it was supposed to be 81 on monday, unlike todays humid 98. I went by the metal yard and picked up some square tubing. I plan to put a "bungee rail" all the way around. As of now I have no where to hook straps to hold down my tarp. I plan to put a 1x1 square tube all the way around, welded in 4 places on the sides where the frame is 2 inches past the box, then weld hooks 1 ft on centers all the way. This should solve my strapping issue. I though about 1 1/2 carrage bolts perpendicular to the rail??? Any good ideas or plan "B". Another thing, I often leave my trailer on a job site while a house is being built, as a mobile dumpster. I think I should wire in a hidden disconnect or of switch. My fear is that some kid will be playing with the up, down and get hurt... or dump my load. You could really get hurt if it were not attached to a truck and then raised it to high. So, wonder which wire I should wire a switch into. It would seem that any one of the wires would stop it from working???? I had rather not do the main power. Too big, to expensive of a switch.

 

[timster2]

Harbor Freight has an inexpensive battery cut off switch Heavy Duty Battery Cutoff Switch I would be worried about someone taking the battery or the whole trailer.

 

[George2615]

While I'm working on it, LOL, I put off my job till next monday. I saw where it was supposed to be 81 on monday, unlike todays humid 98. I went by the metal yard and picked up some square tubing. I plan to put a "bungee rail" all the way around. As of now I have no where to hook straps to hold down my tarp. I plan to put a 1x1 square tube all the way around, welded in 4 places on the sides where the frame is 2 inches past the box, then weld hooks 1 ft on centers all the way. This should solve my strapping issue. I though about 1 1/2 carrage bolts perpendicular to the rail??? Any good ideas or plan "B". Another thing, I often leave my trailer on a job site while a house is being built, as a mobile dumpster. I think I should wire in a hidden disconnect or of switch. My fear is that some kid will be playing with the up, down and get hurt... or dump my load. You could really get hurt if it were not attached to a truck and then raised it to high. So, wonder which wire I should wire a switch into. It would seem that any one of the wires would stop it from working???? I had rather not do the main power. Too big, to expensive of a switch.

I welded 1/2" angle on my dump trailer to attach the bungees to. It was cheaper than 1x1 tubing then adding hooks.
I agree to wire in a hidden switch. I think you bought the power up and gravity down pump so you only need to wire the hidden switch in series with the small wire on the solenoid. I guess from you asking this question you didn't mount the new pump in a locking box on the tongue. That would have solved that problem.

 

[zing]

While I'm working on it, LOL, I put off my job till next monday. I saw where it was supposed to be 81 on monday, unlike todays humid 98. I went by the metal yard and picked up some square tubing. I plan to put a "bungee rail" all the way around. As of now I have no where to hook straps to hold down my tarp. I plan to put a 1x1 square tube all the way around, welded in 4 places on the sides where the frame is 2 inches past the box, then weld hooks 1 ft on centers all the way. This should solve my strapping issue. I though about 1 1/2 carrage bolts perpendicular to the rail??? Any good ideas or plan "B". Another thing, I often leave my trailer on a job site while a house is being built, as a mobile dumpster. I think I should wire in a hidden disconnect or of switch. My fear is that some kid will be playing with the up, down and get hurt... or dump my load. You could really get hurt if it were not attached to a truck and then raised it to high. So, wonder which wire I should wire a switch into. It would seem that any one of the wires would stop it from working???? I had rather not do the main power. Too big, to expensive of a switch.

Not sure if you already have sidewall extension slots or not, but if you don't that is the way I would go. Just bend plate into rectangles the size that will allow you to slide in 2x4's and then weld at appropriate spots around the outside of your top rail. Serves a dual purpose if you place them right. Gives you a place to hook bungies to, but also allows you to build removeable side boards out of 2x8's or 2x10's, with 2x4 running vertically to support them, then the 2x4 slides down into your metal slots to give you higher trailer sides whenever you need them.

 

[1gr8bldr]

I welded 1/2" angle on my dump trailer to attach the bungees to. It was cheaper than 1x1 tubing then adding hooks.
I agree to wire in a hidden switch. I think you bought the power up and gravity down pump so you only need to wire the hidden switch in series with the small wire on the solenoid. I guess from you asking this question you didn't mount the new pump in a locking box on the tongue. That would have solved that problem.

I had recently built a spare tire holder in that location. So I did not have room for this. I wish I had the room now because I would like to have a box for my tarp and bungees

 

[1gr8bldr]

Not sure if you already have sidewall extension slots or not, but if you don't that is the way I would go. Just bend plate into rectangles the size that will allow you to slide in 2x4's and then weld at appropriate spots around the outside of your top rail. Serves a dual purpose if you place them right. Gives you a place to hook bungies to, but also allows you to build removeable side boards out of 2x8's or 2x10's, with 2x4 running vertically to support them, then the 2x4 slides down into your metal slots to give you higher trailer sides whenever you need them.

I have a 2x12 running around the top but I want my attaching rail much lower so that the bungees have strecthing room as well as length for the tarp coverage since some loads are level and some rounded up.

 

[George2615]

I had recently built a spare tire holder in that location. So I did not have room for this. I wish I had the room now because I would like to have a box for my tarp and bungees

Move your spare tire to the right side of the tongue. I had just enough room to mount the spare behind my weight distribution clamps (not installed at time of pic).

 

[pmsmechanic]

The spare tire could also be mounted onto the box. Either the front or the side. As with anything there are pro's and con's.

 

[1gr8bldr]

Move your spare tire to the right side of the tongue. I had just enough room to mount the spare behind my weight distribution clamps (not installed at time of pic).

Is that a solar battery maintainer on top of the tool box?

 

[George2615]

Is that a solar battery maintainer on top of the tool box?

Yes, its a 1.5A solar charger.