PineRidge
Super Member
I'm another thats had pretty good luck with the TSC paint, sprayed or brushed.
Durable Tractor Paint
- Thread starter ADin
- Start date
- Views: 10328
PineRidge
Super Member
I'm another thats had pretty good luck with the TSC paint, sprayed or brushed.
buppy69
Platinum Member
You can't beat the TSC paint for bang for the buck.
Eugene
Eugene
buppy69
Platinum Member
You can't beat the TSC paint for bang for the buck.
Eugene
Eugene
ADin,
The most durable paints are urethane enamels that have catalyst added to them. IMRON is Duponts's brand, but there are others. The down side is that the stuff is poison. It is NOT caught with a charcoal mask. You have to use a supplied air respirator that pumps air into a helmet that you wear. The catalyst action in paint is to cross link and harden it providing excellent wear resistance, high gloss, UV protection and color retention. The biologic action is to make a PERMANENT coating on the inside of your lungs. Eventually, you will have the lung capacity of a 90 year old 3 pack a day smoker.
If you go to ytmag.com and read the discussions in the painting forum, you will learn a lot. (I did) Basic technique is to clean the parts of all old paint, oil, rust down to bare metal. Use a phosphoric acid based rust preventer like "Must for Rust" to treat bare ferrous metal. Use a good quality primer and good quality paint. Follow directions exactly on time to recoat and sanding. A good quality HVLP spray gun or even a cheapie will give better results than brushing in most cases.
jb
The most durable paints are urethane enamels that have catalyst added to them. IMRON is Duponts's brand, but there are others. The down side is that the stuff is poison. It is NOT caught with a charcoal mask. You have to use a supplied air respirator that pumps air into a helmet that you wear. The catalyst action in paint is to cross link and harden it providing excellent wear resistance, high gloss, UV protection and color retention. The biologic action is to make a PERMANENT coating on the inside of your lungs. Eventually, you will have the lung capacity of a 90 year old 3 pack a day smoker.
If you go to ytmag.com and read the discussions in the painting forum, you will learn a lot. (I did) Basic technique is to clean the parts of all old paint, oil, rust down to bare metal. Use a phosphoric acid based rust preventer like "Must for Rust" to treat bare ferrous metal. Use a good quality primer and good quality paint. Follow directions exactly on time to recoat and sanding. A good quality HVLP spray gun or even a cheapie will give better results than brushing in most cases.
jb
ADin,
The most durable paints are urethane enamels that have catalyst added to them. IMRON is Duponts's brand, but there are others. The down side is that the stuff is poison. It is NOT caught with a charcoal mask. You have to use a supplied air respirator that pumps air into a helmet that you wear. The catalyst action in paint is to cross link and harden it providing excellent wear resistance, high gloss, UV protection and color retention. The biologic action is to make a PERMANENT coating on the inside of your lungs. Eventually, you will have the lung capacity of a 90 year old 3 pack a day smoker.
If you go to ytmag.com and read the discussions in the painting forum, you will learn a lot. (I did) Basic technique is to clean the parts of all old paint, oil, rust down to bare metal. Use a phosphoric acid based rust preventer like "Must for Rust" to treat bare ferrous metal. Use a good quality primer and good quality paint. Follow directions exactly on time to recoat and sanding. A good quality HVLP spray gun or even a cheapie will give better results than brushing in most cases.
jb
The most durable paints are urethane enamels that have catalyst added to them. IMRON is Duponts's brand, but there are others. The down side is that the stuff is poison. It is NOT caught with a charcoal mask. You have to use a supplied air respirator that pumps air into a helmet that you wear. The catalyst action in paint is to cross link and harden it providing excellent wear resistance, high gloss, UV protection and color retention. The biologic action is to make a PERMANENT coating on the inside of your lungs. Eventually, you will have the lung capacity of a 90 year old 3 pack a day smoker.
If you go to ytmag.com and read the discussions in the painting forum, you will learn a lot. (I did) Basic technique is to clean the parts of all old paint, oil, rust down to bare metal. Use a phosphoric acid based rust preventer like "Must for Rust" to treat bare ferrous metal. Use a good quality primer and good quality paint. Follow directions exactly on time to recoat and sanding. A good quality HVLP spray gun or even a cheapie will give better results than brushing in most cases.
jb
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
BPS or Van Sickle are the usuals around here. Between TSC and all the rest of the Ag supply business's here carry one of the 2. Either will work satisfactory, and at a relatively low buck.
IF...you have all the right equipment to do your painting, and you're painting an entire tractor or implement, there are much better paints, with a MUCH bigger price tag. Once again, IF...you clean, sand, prime, sand, prime some more, sand some more, and so on, these expensive paints will last longer in most cases, keep their shine longer, and protect longer. It's a big jump from $25 enamel to $200 base coat/clear coat in terms of what you need to know and have to spray it.
For "the average guy", the stuff from TSC does the trick.
(After painting a few things, I'm learning the uses of different types of reducer. Mostly to match with climate conditions. It helps if you can find a good automotive paint dealer with a helpful counter man. Bottom line is, you can't go too far wrong with the thinners recommended by paint manufacturers)
BE CAREFULL IF YOU USE HARDENERS IN YOUR PAINT! (read directions CAREFULLY)
IF...you have all the right equipment to do your painting, and you're painting an entire tractor or implement, there are much better paints, with a MUCH bigger price tag. Once again, IF...you clean, sand, prime, sand, prime some more, sand some more, and so on, these expensive paints will last longer in most cases, keep their shine longer, and protect longer. It's a big jump from $25 enamel to $200 base coat/clear coat in terms of what you need to know and have to spray it.
For "the average guy", the stuff from TSC does the trick.
(After painting a few things, I'm learning the uses of different types of reducer. Mostly to match with climate conditions. It helps if you can find a good automotive paint dealer with a helpful counter man. Bottom line is, you can't go too far wrong with the thinners recommended by paint manufacturers)
BE CAREFULL IF YOU USE HARDENERS IN YOUR PAINT! (read directions CAREFULLY)
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
BPS or Van Sickle are the usuals around here. Between TSC and all the rest of the Ag supply business's here carry one of the 2. Either will work satisfactory, and at a relatively low buck.
IF...you have all the right equipment to do your painting, and you're painting an entire tractor or implement, there are much better paints, with a MUCH bigger price tag. Once again, IF...you clean, sand, prime, sand, prime some more, sand some more, and so on, these expensive paints will last longer in most cases, keep their shine longer, and protect longer. It's a big jump from $25 enamel to $200 base coat/clear coat in terms of what you need to know and have to spray it.
For "the average guy", the stuff from TSC does the trick.
(After painting a few things, I'm learning the uses of different types of reducer. Mostly to match with climate conditions. It helps if you can find a good automotive paint dealer with a helpful counter man. Bottom line is, you can't go too far wrong with the thinners recommended by paint manufacturers)
BE CAREFULL IF YOU USE HARDENERS IN YOUR PAINT! (read directions CAREFULLY)
IF...you have all the right equipment to do your painting, and you're painting an entire tractor or implement, there are much better paints, with a MUCH bigger price tag. Once again, IF...you clean, sand, prime, sand, prime some more, sand some more, and so on, these expensive paints will last longer in most cases, keep their shine longer, and protect longer. It's a big jump from $25 enamel to $200 base coat/clear coat in terms of what you need to know and have to spray it.
For "the average guy", the stuff from TSC does the trick.
(After painting a few things, I'm learning the uses of different types of reducer. Mostly to match with climate conditions. It helps if you can find a good automotive paint dealer with a helpful counter man. Bottom line is, you can't go too far wrong with the thinners recommended by paint manufacturers)
BE CAREFULL IF YOU USE HARDENERS IN YOUR PAINT! (read directions CAREFULLY)
RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,885
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
I used TSC paints with a hardener and sprayed on with a touch-up sprayer that I bought at TSC using my Clack Champ oil type compressor, all bought at TSC. So far, the paint on my soil ripper with 2 disc hillers added has stayed through one use.
If you have ANY rust at all, I recommend coating it with one of the rust converters like RustOleum Rust Reformer or other products from NAPA and others. They turn the iron oxide, even some of it you won't see in crevices, into iron sulfide, a very hard, black surface that is paintable with primer. I've NEVER had ANY paint stay on over rust unless it is inerted first with one of these rust converters.
Ralph
If you have ANY rust at all, I recommend coating it with one of the rust converters like RustOleum Rust Reformer or other products from NAPA and others. They turn the iron oxide, even some of it you won't see in crevices, into iron sulfide, a very hard, black surface that is paintable with primer. I've NEVER had ANY paint stay on over rust unless it is inerted first with one of these rust converters.
Ralph
RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,885
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
I used TSC paints with a hardener and sprayed on with a touch-up sprayer that I bought at TSC using my Clack Champ oil type compressor, all bought at TSC. So far, the paint on my soil ripper with 2 disc hillers added has stayed through one use.
If you have ANY rust at all, I recommend coating it with one of the rust converters like RustOleum Rust Reformer or other products from NAPA and others. They turn the iron oxide, even some of it you won't see in crevices, into iron sulfide, a very hard, black surface that is paintable with primer. I've NEVER had ANY paint stay on over rust unless it is inerted first with one of these rust converters.
Ralph
If you have ANY rust at all, I recommend coating it with one of the rust converters like RustOleum Rust Reformer or other products from NAPA and others. They turn the iron oxide, even some of it you won't see in crevices, into iron sulfide, a very hard, black surface that is paintable with primer. I've NEVER had ANY paint stay on over rust unless it is inerted first with one of these rust converters.
Ralph