thclimer
Veteran Member
Hi Steve,
I've been away from the Internet for the last few days. This is a terrific drawing, thanks for your time and effort you put into it. I believe many owners will be using it in the future.
Tim
DX 33 Starting Problem Fixed
- Thread starter cardenharry
- Start date
- Views: 42226
I've been away from the Internet for the last few days. This is a terrific drawing, thanks for your time and effort you put into it. I believe many owners will be using it in the future.
Tim
SteveInMD
Platinum Member
Here's the drawing with part numbers and notes added...
thclimer
Veteran Member
Now there is no excuse to not perform this conversion if you are having problems.
OP
cardenharry
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2006
- Messages
- 57
With reference to the inline fuse between the battery/starter cable and the 30A relay. In an earlier picture I believe I saw a 40A fuse. Since it is listed as a 30A relay I used a fuse holder with a 30A automotive fuse. I noticed that SteveInMD showed a 10A fuse. Just wondering what others feel should be used here and why. Anyway, used my tractor today and it started just as it should.
SteveInMD
Platinum Member
I though this issue might come up.
I believe there is a difference in where I picked up power from the method posted by Jsheds, but I could be wrong. It wasn't clear to me. This might account for the different fuse recommendation. I can tell you that my tractor starts just fine with a 10 amp fuse. If you run a 40 amp fuse you will burn up the 30 amp relay before the fuse blows. With my diagram a fuse smaller than 10 amps may even be sufficient. Tomorrow I'll use an ammeter to see what the max current is with the new circuit when starting under normal conditions.
I believe there is a difference in where I picked up power from the method posted by Jsheds, but I could be wrong. It wasn't clear to me. This might account for the different fuse recommendation. I can tell you that my tractor starts just fine with a 10 amp fuse. If you run a 40 amp fuse you will burn up the 30 amp relay before the fuse blows. With my diagram a fuse smaller than 10 amps may even be sufficient. Tomorrow I'll use an ammeter to see what the max current is with the new circuit when starting under normal conditions.
SteveInMD
Platinum Member
I chose a 10 amp fuse since that's what the original circuit called for.
Since I'm having trouble locating my ammeter, I did the next best thing. I inserted a 5 amp fuse and tried to start the tractor. It started twice, but on the third try the fuse blew. I attribute this to a slightly lower battery voltage after the third glow plug cycle. And of course as volts go down, current goes up. I then put in a 7.5 amp fuse. I started the tractor a number of times with no problem. Therefore the current under normal conditions must be more than 5 amps but less than 7.5 amps. I'll leave the 7.5 amp fuse in for a while and see what happens. I think a 10 amp fuse is about right. If the tractor sits for a while and the battery isn't topped up the 7.5 amp fuse may blow when you try to start it.
I think the fuse needs to be less than 30 amps to protect the relay. A 25 amp fuse may be acceptable, but a 10 amp is more conservative.
Since I'm having trouble locating my ammeter, I did the next best thing. I inserted a 5 amp fuse and tried to start the tractor. It started twice, but on the third try the fuse blew. I attribute this to a slightly lower battery voltage after the third glow plug cycle. And of course as volts go down, current goes up. I then put in a 7.5 amp fuse. I started the tractor a number of times with no problem. Therefore the current under normal conditions must be more than 5 amps but less than 7.5 amps. I'll leave the 7.5 amp fuse in for a while and see what happens. I think a 10 amp fuse is about right. If the tractor sits for a while and the battery isn't topped up the 7.5 amp fuse may blow when you try to start it.
I think the fuse needs to be less than 30 amps to protect the relay. A 25 amp fuse may be acceptable, but a 10 amp is more conservative.
thclimer
Veteran Member
Hard to beat the data from an actual test; like you said 10 amps is probably a very good place to start.
dqdave1
Veteran Member
Am I wrong, or does the inline fuse protect the newly installed relay? I just did this and CNH gave me a 25 amp fuse to protect the 30 amp relay. The original fuse will still protect the start circuit.
SteveInMD
Platinum Member
Yes, the inline fuse protects the new relay. The original circuit has a 10 amp fuse, but we are creating a new circuit here too, so we need to add a new fuse. Others have picked up power at a different point, with other systems drawing on that circuit so a larger fuse may be needed for that method. I've had no problems with a 10 amp fuse on the newly created circuit as show in the drawing.
pedalstomper78
Gold Member
Guys, I wanted to give this thread a bump. I've had some starting problems with mine and I've replaced tons of stuff chasing my tail on this. I did all sorts of testing on batter voltage, the starter, etc.
Needless to day, I'll be installing a relay this morning....... So I figured I'd bump this so it's fresh in any new owner's mind.
Thanks!!!!!
Needless to day, I'll be installing a relay this morning....... So I figured I'd bump this so it's fresh in any new owner's mind.
Thanks!!!!!
