goeduck
Super Star Member
I can see myself accidently severing the hose and the saw then hitting a rock. :fiery::fiery::fiery:
Echo vs Husqvarna
- Thread starter deerefan
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I can see myself accidently severing the hose and the saw then hitting a rock. :fiery::fiery::fiery:
Industrial Toys
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I never thought of the oil on the two stroke. How stupid of me!
I once had a 12 ton zoom boom that had run out of propane, and happened to have a friend with a propane tank in his car partially full, that he had decomissioned back to gas, so we put a garden hose from the tank to the zoom boom, and he escorted me, down a very steep hill. No brakes to speak of on the zoom boom.
I once had a 12 ton zoom boom that had run out of propane, and happened to have a friend with a propane tank in his car partially full, that he had decomissioned back to gas, so we put a garden hose from the tank to the zoom boom, and he escorted me, down a very steep hill. No brakes to speak of on the zoom boom.
ericm979
Super Member
I have seen pics of a chinese four stroke chainsaw. Saws have to run in any orientation and normal four stroke oiling systems won't work when the engine is upside down. I expect the chinese saw uses something like Stihls 4-mix system where the valve train is all ball bearing and is lubricated by premix flowing past on the way to the intake valve.
DarkBlack
Elite Member
My Honda GX35 is a 4 stroke and runs in any position. No 2 stroke premix required
crazyal
Super Member
The Honda vaporizes the oil quickly after start up so everything in the crankcase gets a misting of oil.
ericm979
Super Member
I looked it up and indeed it's an all position four stroke that does not use premix. I didn't know it existed. All I could find about how it oils is that it had a rotary slinger. Regular "splash" lubricated four strokes have a scoop on the crank or big end of the rod that dips into the oil at the the bottom of the crank case and splashes it around. Honda's apparently found a way to do that in any position and also to not have the rocker box fill up with oil when the engine is upside down. I'd like to see one taken apart to understand how it works.
Husaberg had a four stroke off road motorcycle that didn't use an oil pump. Instead they used crankcase pressure and reed valves to pump air/oil mixture around the engine and the cam drive chain to bring oil up to the overhead cam and rockers. That still depended on gravity being mostly in a consistent direction.
Husaberg had a four stroke off road motorcycle that didn't use an oil pump. Instead they used crankcase pressure and reed valves to pump air/oil mixture around the engine and the cam drive chain to bring oil up to the overhead cam and rockers. That still depended on gravity being mostly in a consistent direction.
goeduck
Super Star Member
I also never knew of the Honda GX25 and GX35. Interesting engines. I am a huge fan of Honda GXs in the traditional air cooled engine. So these I am sure would be Great as well.
Honda Engines | GX25 Mini 4-Stroke Engine | Features, Specs, and Model Info
Honda Engines | GX25 Mini 4-Stroke Engine | Features, Specs, and Model Info
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
I remember as a kid the stick I had to hold to measure mining props.
I like the quickness of off and on, has air chuck connection but never have to worry about air leaks. Before my pto winch, all my saws had tat tail on the saw for cutting 4' wood and always hated drilling holes in a new saw for that measuring tail especially when saws started make the trigger handle part of the gas tank......
John_Mc
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I received magnetic 16" firewood gauge as a gift. I've found it useful in some situations. I typicaly only use it if I'm cutting up a load of logs in the landing. If I brought it into the woods with me, I'd loose it (or anything else not permanently attached) in a few minutes.
Prior to that, I had a bent up piece of wire zip-tied to the left side of my front handle of one of my saws. It flipped back against the body of my saw when not in use. Nothing to carry, nothing to lose when not in use. Eventually, the zip-ties holding it to the handle deteriorated and I pulled it off. I've not yet replaced it. It was modeled after a commercially available gauge that the former director of the Forestry and Natural Resources program at a local technical school showed me.
I've also been known to grab a stick of the right length in my left hand along with the front handle of the saw so the end of the stick marks 16" from the bar. The old "turning my saw sideways so the 16" bar indicates the log length" is a pain in the neck, so I don't do much of that.
Has anyone gotten the idea that despite many cords of firewood cutting, I still stink at judging 16" lengths? What typically throws me is when cutting different diameter logs. If I'm cutting 16" lengths on a 6" diameter log, it tend to cut longer when I move to a 12" diameter log. I've played around with various methods over the years. Most of the time, I just accept that I'm not going to hit the exact length I'm aiming for. Fortunately, my stove can accommodate longer when I mess up on the long side, and shorter logs still burn and give off BTUs, so they go in the stove as well.
Prior to that, I had a bent up piece of wire zip-tied to the left side of my front handle of one of my saws. It flipped back against the body of my saw when not in use. Nothing to carry, nothing to lose when not in use. Eventually, the zip-ties holding it to the handle deteriorated and I pulled it off. I've not yet replaced it. It was modeled after a commercially available gauge that the former director of the Forestry and Natural Resources program at a local technical school showed me.
I've also been known to grab a stick of the right length in my left hand along with the front handle of the saw so the end of the stick marks 16" from the bar. The old "turning my saw sideways so the 16" bar indicates the log length" is a pain in the neck, so I don't do much of that.
Has anyone gotten the idea that despite many cords of firewood cutting, I still stink at judging 16" lengths? What typically throws me is when cutting different diameter logs. If I'm cutting 16" lengths on a 6" diameter log, it tend to cut longer when I move to a 12" diameter log. I've played around with various methods over the years. Most of the time, I just accept that I'm not going to hit the exact length I'm aiming for. Fortunately, my stove can accommodate longer when I mess up on the long side, and shorter logs still burn and give off BTUs, so they go in the stove as well.
You remind me of "the good old days" before logger's tapes, when measuring was done with a 4 foot stick. Of course that measurement was arbitrary, it might start out at 53 inches on Monday, by Wednesday it could actually be 4 feet after getting pared down by accidental hits by the saw. Friday it was down to 43 inches but that was Ok because the guys just wanted to bring out their 20 cords and go home.
I may have just dated myself be recalling when a good crew could bring out 100 cords, and still go home by lunchtime on Friday.
I gave that magnet think a look then go nah, I like the the Cut-right thing better, on and off like a air chuck and fits in your belt or anywhere when not in use. Now that wire thingy off the handle bar, that ain't a bad idea I might give that a try, then I can measure both directions when cutting.
I dont do that saw twist thing either it's a pain in the neck, hand, donkey............ I also stick at guessing firewood length, a couple years ago I noticed I was really getting bad at that, some of my wood started @16-18 but slowly ended up at 2', maybe like you say that diameter thing is throwing me off, the older I get more off then usual............
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yomax4
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I just use my 20" bar as my measure. Touch the trigger every 20" all the way down the log and then have at it. I've never seen these measuring devices.
goeduck
Super Star Member
I do the same, use my bar as a guide and as long as it is +/- an inch or two I am good. However, if I have a big tree it is worth bringing out my 6 foot wood stake with 18 inch marks on it. I lay it on the log and score it with the saw at the marks. Nothing fancy, it is all just going to be burned. I drive my OCD brother nuts when I cut with him, he chalk marks everything with a tape measure. But I get 3x as much cut as he does in the same time. Switching between the 20 inch bar saw and the 25 inch does take a a little adjusting on the fly.
4570Man
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I used to mark it with marking paint but I got good enough just eyeballing it. After all it’s getting burned. Having to turn your saw sideways for reference is way slower than spending a few minutes to paint dots on all of the wood.
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
Speaking of Echo, I had a chance to buy NEW 590's with bar and chain for $299.00 out the door.
I almost bought one, but I sure don't need one, so I passed!
SR
I almost bought one, but I sure don't need one, so I passed!
SR
That's $100 less than I just paid for mine.
