Echo 590 or the X Series?

[5030]

This is exciting news, I'll have to check my (different models) Echo's
I love little common sense features like this.

The smaller saws like my CS top handle still require a 'Scrench' to loosen the fuel and oil caps. Only the larger (rear handle) saws have that feature, I believe.

 

[EddieWalker]

Eddie, while we're spending your money, I'm certain that you have cordless tools and you know that (mostly) buying a new tool with batteries, the tool is usually close to free if you count the cost of the batteries by themselves.
I'm married to Makita, Amazon had a little saw that came with 4-5amp batteries that all my other tools use. Of course this included the saw and a dual charger for $350.
With no illusions of the battery saws capability I figured I couldn't go wrong.
Well every tool has its "place" and I'm impressed with it for little stuff. It's always put in the Gator for driving around my land, and it sips bar oil because it only pumps when the chain is spinning so you don't have to carry anything but the saw. I put it in the truck for wind storms knocking trees over but that's probably not a concern in TX.
I know guys with Milwaukee and Dewalt that appreciate theirs as well.
They're not going to compete with the big guys battery saws, but I don't expect it to and the last thing I want is another line of batteries to keep up with.

I'm also a Makita guy with a pretty good collection of Makita tools and batteries. I've thought about getting the cordless chainsaw, but haven't yet. I do use my cordless Sawzall with a pruning blade fairly often to cut up branches. It's also what my wife uses when she wants to prune our trees around the house.

My next Makita purchase will probably be their leaf blower. I want to have it in my tractor to blow off my batwing after I'm done mowing for the day.

 

[5030]

My next Makita purchase will probably be their leaf blower. I want to have it in my tractor to blow off my batwing after I'm done mowing for the day.

I bought the Bauer 20 volt cordless (small) blower (tool only 29 bucks) and it fits quite nicely behind the seat of my Kubota's. I use it to blow off the accumulated chaff from the round bailer as well as blow out the radiator and heat exchangers on the Kubota's while I'm in the field's running hay. Nice blower with a ton of air flow and it comes with a concentrator nozzle as well as a nozzle for inflating things like pool toys (that I have no use for anyway). Bauer also has a 20 volt 'sawsall' but I haven't acquired it...yet.

 

[5030]

My ongoing philosophy is... If you are already running Makita cordless tools, stick with them, or Ryobi or DeWalt or Milwaukee or whatever. In my case it's HF Bauer. All good IMO.

I will say that I've not had one tool failure with the Bauer stuff...yet and I have a pile of them as well as batteries. My only complaint (if you want to call it that) is, the Bauer battery recharging unit is slow to charge the batteries but that isn't an issue with me because I always have a number of battery packs charged up anyway. Nice thing about any Li-Ion battery pack is, they hold their charge for a long time, unlike the Ni-Cad packs that self discharge pretty quick.

Would I rely on the Bauer cordless tools for heavy use? No way, but for occasional use they are just fine in my scenario.

 

[4570Man]

Yes, it has the 20 inch bar.

I think the chain is too tight, but I left it like it was. There isn't any slack in it at all. I didn't know about the greaseable roller nose. I'll have to look into it. I didn't grease anything.

One thing that caught my attention was the smell of it while it was running. I was the same as an outboard motor out on the lake. It's hard to describe, but very recognizable. I've never smelled that with my other chainsaws, and I wonder if it's the canned fuel?

I never grease the tips on my saws. My oldest bar has distinctive enough wear that it probably needs thrown out but the tip is fine.

 

[5030]

I never grease the tips on my saws. My oldest bar has distinctive enough wear that it probably needs thrown out but the tip is fine.

Your choice but... If the bar has a grease hole in the end, you should use it. Kind of not changing the oil in your buggy sort of. People say that the bar oil will lubricate the sprocket nose, I don't see how that works in as much as the bar oil is outside of the sprocket nose and the centrifugal force of the spinning sprocket would throw out any oil that might get in there anyway. All my bars have grease holes and they get greased every time I use one (saw).

I've never worn out a bar, ever. If I get a burr on a bar rail, I'll file it off, not that I do because I don't get burrs on the rails. I always flip my bars over, every time I put on a sharp loop. I have worn out drive sprockets but those are easily replaceable and all drive sprockets today have maximum allowable wear indicators on them anyway.

 

[5030]

Yes, it has the 20 inch bar.

I think the chain is too tight, but I left it like it was. There isn't any slack in it at all. I didn't know about the greaseable roller nose. I'll have to look into it. I didn't grease anything.

One thing that caught my attention was the smell of it while it was running. I was the same as an outboard motor out on the lake. It's hard to describe, but very recognizable. I've never smelled that with my other chainsaws, and I wonder if it's the canned fuel?

Canned fuel does have a distinctive smell unlike pump gas Eddie...

I always set my chain tension by tightening the chain and then lifting the end of the bar and observing how much slack there is then and then adjusting it tighter but only so tight as I can pull the lower chain run away from the bar and have it 'snap' back into the lower rail.

 

[4570Man]

Your choice but... If the bar has a grease hole in the end, you should use it. Kind of not changing the oil in your buggy sort of. People say that the bar oil will lubricate the sprocket nose, I don't see how that works in as much as the bar oil is outside of the sprocket nose and the centrifugal force of the spinning sprocket would throw out any oil that might get in there anyway. All my bars have grease holes and they get greased every time I use one (saw).

I've never worn out a bar, ever. If I get a burr on a bar rail, I'll file it off, not that I do because I don't get burrs on the rails. I always flip my bars over, every time I put on a sharp loop. I have worn out drive sprockets but those are easily replaceable and all drive sprockets today have maximum allowable wear indicators on them anyway.

If I was burning up tips all the time maybe I would do something different but I’ve literally never had one burn up. And a bar is like $50. If one did burn up it wouldn’t hardly be as big of a deal to burning up an engine from lack of changing oil.

 

[5030]

You prerogative entirely but a disposable (and actually refillable) grease gun with the required needle tip is less than 5 bucks so it's a cheap date today. I just happen to use a metal gun that I can refill and I use ultra buck high speed bearing grease but the disposa ones work as well.


...and I do know of some people who never change their oil as well.

 

[Rustyiron]

I grease mine just because it's there and only periodically. The angle drive on my weedeaters do get my regular attention. Lots of rpms at both locations.