Economic question

[buckeyefarmer]

When i was young, the tv got unplugged during a storm.

 

[Ken]

Been in current house 3+ years; here is my solution. It has worked so far.

* Install whole house surge protector in service panel.

* Plug everything electronic into a dedicated surge protector.

* And most important of all, during a thunderstorm,
UNPLUG EVERYTHING !!!

Arky 217 Over the years working with our power company the meter protector price was 30 bucks then 130 and now 165 at last replacement. they also installed the ground grid of 8 foot rods into the ground and #8 copper attached.to pole ground. then lightening protector on poles before our house and past our transformer. to the house main breaker.
before this lightening would blow switches out of the wall as well wall outlets.
have metal grounded roof on house. connected to power ground.

I use in house before power to computers and tv. lightening protectors costing around 50 bucks they last until smoke is released.
Before leaving shut off modem and telephone lines.
Do have a question why does the input of telephone and input of power has to be with in 1/4th inch. so that any voltage spike jumps and destroys the circuit board.

We no longer use telephone radios since last only till next lightening burst.
standred old push button phones and then sometimes they have internal problems . just replace one the keyboard quit after a storm.
tornados have removed all trees taller than a power pole.

ken

 

[goeduck]

Most of the lightning damage I have had over the years came from the lightning hitting a tree then following along the ground into the house. Buried phone lines were guaranteed to be a path for damaged phones, modems, or anything connected to them. We tried the invisible fencing one time. Had it two weeks and lightning struck a tree then went to ground where the wire was buried. Blew the controller and the GFI outlet it was plugged into right out of my wall in the garage. We even had two tires ruined by lightning running along the ground and going for the steel cords. Guy at the shop put several patches in and every time he tanked them there was another leak. I guess it entered in one location, ran around the cord in the rubber, and came out somewhere else inside. After the 3rd attempt I stuck a knife in the sidewalls of both and had them replaced.

I don't think having your power lines buried in the ground is going to protect you.

If my power lines or house was next to one tall tree that would attract lightning that might be probable, but my power lines run through a forest so I doubt I would have that problem. I am not exactly in lightning country but you make good points for some parts of the country.

 

[Creamer]

I do not quite understand the system but when i was growing up we had 5 wires running from the main power pole to the house. One night we came home and and we had major issues with television, refrigerator, freezer, and a few other things not working. It was late at night and nothing was going to happen until morning so we went to bed. In the morning we got up and found a dead pheasant in the front yard and the middle of the five wires was down. Apparently it was the neutral wire and somehow this put a surge into everything.

 

[nap61]

Thanks for the replies. I did an internet search before I posted and everything I found indicated it was a problem with the closed evaporator system. That was the same thing the repairman said over the phone. Probably about $500 to repair. A new freezer to match would be $2,000 +. The repairman is supposed to be out tomorrow. I will try to update.
Also, the microwave started working again. I didn't do anything to help it. (It was like when your car won't start and you check the oil; and it then starts.) I have used it for 7 years without a problem. I have to wonder if it was "operator error".

Norman

 

[oosik]

With the electronic features on some of these new devices - I can well believe it could be "OP error". Even more likely - "OP accidentally pushing the wrong button".

My new motorcycle - 2017 BMW R1200 GSA is a prime example. I have two LCD displays on the bike. One is the OEM display(spedo, tach, ambient temp, engine temp, tire pressure, distance to destination, distance to waypoints, mpg, miles to refueling, ave mph, oil level, cruise control, suspension adjustment, ABS, traction control, stability control, audio controls, phone controls, etc, etc, etc) and the other is for my navigational device - Garmin Nav V. The Nav V has just as many adjustment as the OEM display.

EVERY TIME I start the bike I have to acknowledge, by tapping on one of the screens, that I WILL NOT play with the controls governing the operations of either screen while the bike is in motion. I've tried, while in motion, it almost was my undoing. Its complicated enough just scanning the data presented on the two monitors - let alone change to alternate data scanning while in motion.

 

[TnAndy]

A new freezer to match would be $2,000 +.

Norman

WOW....you buy big and/or expensive freezers ! We have 6 chest freezers + one upright (all of them smaller size....7-14cf), and none of them were over 400-500 bucks new.......and never had one go out yet either. Age range on them is 15-20yrs to latest one bought this fall.

 

[Deere Dude]

2 years ago I had a 13 yo microwave from our camper that quit. After spending a lot of time, over a year maybe off and on, troubleshooting it (I am not an electrician, but try) I burned up a $100 meter, bought another $100 in parts then I cried uncle. I bought a new one for $250-300 or so with a warranty. I lost my shirt on that deal.

A year later the 5 yo microwave in the house went out and the decision to replace was very quick.

Over the past 4 years our 10 yo heat pump with gas back up seemed to have problems every year, like a combustion blower, then a circulation fan, then a gas regulator, then a few weeks ago the heat roll out switch was bad, I thought. After replacing a $130 burner a few weeks ago which didn't fix it, the next step was pull the heat exchanger and a couple other things that I saw were bad. The minimum to check all that stuff was $500-$1000 + parts. I told him just to order a new unit, just air with gas back up.

It cost $4000 and stung a little bit, but there is a limit to how much a guy can. Sick of the nickel and diming me.

 

[ultrarunner]

Yep... neighbors micro is Amana Radar Range from the 1960's... still works well... Moms is GE over range from the 70's and no issue... other neighbors have gone through several.

Maybe built to sell vs. built to last?

The reason I say this is a 1960's Radar Range cost a month's wages and today a microwave is a few hours wages.

 

[NorTracNY]

WOW....you buy big and/or expensive freezers ! We have 6 chest freezers + one upright (all of them smaller size....7-14cf), and none of them were over 400-500 bucks new.......and never had one go out yet either. Age range on them is 15-20yrs to latest one bought this fall.

Anyone want to bet with me that the newest one will be the first to fail? I just bought a new refrigerator and oven. The oven stopped working and the refrigerator had already been repaired 4 times. I hate buying new appliances because they are all cr@p. Even the salespeople say they will only last 5-7years! I will try to repair myself or seriously consider buying new. I've kept the dishwasher and dryer working by repairing myself. Except the last time the drying wasn't working well. I went online and went through several debugs, but didn't have luck. I was busy at the time so I let a repairman come in. He changed out the part that was next on the list for me to try. $22 part cost me $220 for someone else to spend 20 minutes.

I've come to realize that the Energy Star program is actually VERY environmentally unfriendly. The ratings should look at the lifetime energy cost and not the yearly use energy cost. It's certainly better for the environment to have a refrigerator last 20 years and use $85/year in energy than 5 years and $70/year in energy.

 

[dmccarty]

Yep... neighbors micro is Amana Radar Range from the 1960's... still works well...

My parents never bought the latest and greatest. Everyone had a microwave but us when I was younger and we finally got a microwave in the early 80's. Twas a big huge thing that was the size of our TV set. They got it at Sears and it was likely made by Amana. The thing was a TANK. When I went off to school they gave me the microwave to use and they bought a much smaller unit that fit the kitchen space. I used that big microwave for a couple of decades and donated it because it was so big. Worked just fine but it took up a huge amount of kitchen space.

One place I work has the very same microwave for people to use. It has to be getting close to 40 years old but it still works!

The over the stove microwave we put in in the house in 2005 might be going. Taking longer to heat water even though we heat the same amount of water. It is making a noise, not a bad noise, but a little noise it has never made before. Afraid it might be on it's last legs.

We have had to replace the dishwasher. The fridge has been replaced twice last year. :shocked: First replacement failed after six months or so and we had to get a new one. Lowes did an exchange but now we have a billing issue we should not have. Will give credit to Lowes because Whirlpool has some serious issues with their fridges. Homefully we don't have a real problem with Lowes with the bill. But we shall see.

We have replace two of the four major appliances in the kitchen after 13 years. One sound like it is about to go. I had to replace the top element in the stove and the stove is rusting because of the stupid design they have on the panels. I tried to put in stainless steel appliances but the wife want a color. The problem is the color is no longer available. The new appliances are stainless steel so we have a color mismatch in the kitchen. We have lived with it because we can't really see all of the appliances unless you are in the kitchen. But if the microwave goes we might have to but a new stove to match the new microwave.

The problem with a new stove, besides money, is that the guy who installed the cabinets did not measure correctly and the wall side of the oven space is tight. They got the stove in but the dealer had to tighten up the panels to get the oven to fit. We might have to move a cabinet to fit a new stove. All because of a failing microwave oven that is 13 years old.

Later,
Dan

 

[nap61]

UPDATE:

The repairman came yesterday and confirmed that the problem was an evaporator leak $650 to repair. I told him that was more than I wanted to spend and offered him $500.He said he contracted that work out and would ask if they would do it for $500.

Since the microwave was working, he checked the icemaker which makes plenty of ice but will not shut off automatically. He said it was the thermostat and gave me the part # since it is an easy DYI


TnAndy,

The freezer is 17.5 cu. ft. We bought it in early Dec. 2010 when we built our last new house. I figured my wife deserved whatever she wanted for putting up with me for 45 years. She ordered the freezer and a matching refrigerator. Unfortunately, she died unexpectedly (Pancreatic cancer) Dec. 26 before we could move in to the new home. Now I have to decide whether to fix the ole freezer or buy a new one to match the refrigerator. The new model is a little larger and a lot more expensive. If it was for the garage or shed, I would definitely get a $300 Lowe's special. I have no emotional attachment to the old freezer; I just want to make the right economic decision.


Norman

 

[ultrarunner]

I've come to realize that the Energy Star program is actually VERY environmentally unfriendly. The ratings should look at the lifetime energy cost and not the yearly use energy cost. It's certainly better for the environment to have a refrigerator last 20 years and use $85/year in energy than 5 years and $70/year in energy.

This ^^^ the elephant in the room and one that is dismissed... even the church ladies were telling Mom she needs to get rid of the old energy wasting appliances because the new ones are so much more efficient...

I said ask them their monthly kWh total before and after they bought new appliances... not a single one could answer.

Mom being at 12 kWh per day has me thinking spending a lot of money to replace perfectly working appliances would be penny wise and pound foolish.

 

[goeduck]

The repair guys rate has to include built in travel. Too bad you can not take them somewhere and only pay actual time.

 

[sd455dan]

The start button on our top loader 7-8yr old Whirlpool washer when out....I tried a work around or two, but not much success....you have to replace the whole control board. Junked the washer. Bought the LAST non-electronic control washer Lowe's had...the old mechanical timer type, and I'll fix it until parts are not available it something goes wrong with it. I've had it with overpriced 'control boards'.

YEP I think they did it on purpose,
Ours should have been recalled, since it will actually Turn itself On... and run a whole cycle with no clothes in it...
Wife has resorted to leaving the D.... door open -that way the lights go on and it can't start because the safety interlock.
The evac pump motor failed last year and had actually caught on fire, I had to chisel the plug out of it before replacing it with a different brand, figured it couldn't be much worse.
My mom still has her 2 late 1960's Maytag washer/dryer set and they are both still ticking.

 

[EddieWalker]

You guys reminded me of the microwave that we had growing up. I guess my parents bought it sometime in the mid 70's. It didn't have any fancy functions, just high, low and defrost. We kept it on high, and most things where too hot to eat after a minute or so. They still had it when I got out of the Marine Corps in 88, but then not too much after that, the hinges for the door broke and they where not able to fix it. I don't know how long it would have lasted if the door kept working.

 

[Egon]

We still have my Grandparents washing machine. Don't know how old it is but it's much older than myself.

 

[DrRod]

My dryer died and the repairman said it was so old that parts were no longer available. His advice was to buy the cheapest one I could find -- they are all built cheaply so there's no value in spending more [besides, I have no idea what all those fancy settings are for, its not like I'm drying silk suits].

I generally opt for repair over replace because of the hidden cost of "adaptation." It always seems that the new one won't fit where the old one was or the specs have changed so you have to replace additional plumbing, connectors, counter space, et al. Regulations change and so a new gas water heater becomes a major install job [and sorry but that closet its in now doesn't allow for the new venting requirements]. Even if the new dishwasher fits they need to rip out a bunch of plumbing [or the counter top] to accomplish the hook-up. And then there's the "while we're at it" which leads to scope creep in the $100's.

 

[DrRod]

And another thought, buying new is such a hassle anymore. I about went nuts with Sears between the all the little price deals, add-ons, discounts, contingencies, et al. It was so complicated that they made a mistake. So the warehouse wouldn't deliver. They wanted me to go back to the store to fix it. Then the guy they sent out wasn't certified to install gas appliances. The install kit wasn't compatible with my supply line, And no one took responsibility or gave a heads-up on any of this -- I had to manage it.

One other thing, I found the error codes for my washer on line and have since fixed it myself several times without the need for parts. Something to consider at the next breakage.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

Maybe the CPAs/accountants can chime-in. I have a freezer and a microwave that are going/gone. They are only 7 years old. They are high end models. I have a repairman coming out next week ($95 just to say hello). At what price point would you replace rather than repair - 40%, 50%, 60%, or?

Norman

For a 7 year old microwave, you have about a 50/50 chance that parts will not be available, so you pay for a repairman to tell you it can't be repaired.