Educate me on 3 pt. tillers

[Pilot]

I need a tiller to go behind my JD 770, 20 hp at the PTO. JD says it takes a JD550 which is a 50 inch tiller and that width would just barely match tire width.

Soil is clay loam, some of the area to be tilled had stumps removed last summer and may have broken off roots at tilling depth. And there are some scattered surprise rocks, usually 8-16" in diameter. Hopefully I have turned them all up with my cultivator, but you never know.

Budget says buy used, except there are 2 dealers nearby, one selling Behlen and the other Priefert. Prices are about $1,600 for those, similar to the best used tillers of name brands. Nobody sells King Kutter.

So my questions relate to used tillers but if you know anything about Behlen or Priefert, feel free to comment.

Do I need a slip clutch?
What does it cost to add a slip clutch to a tiller without one? I was quoted about $500, which seems pretty high.

Is a shear pin easy to change? Is it a matter of shear pin with chain drive and slip clutch with gears?

How can I check out a tiller before handing over my cash, assuming the seller no longer has a tractor or a place where I can try it out?

Any comments on the current choices fro CL?

At the moment, the prospects are a Kuhn, barely used, except fora little paint worn off parts of the tines it looks new, $1350, the seller "thinks" it has a slip clutch. There is some kind of guard on the front of the tiller, which makes me suspect it runs in reverse. 146 miles from home--I hope it's not a wild goose chase.
An Agric, a little rougher in appearance but a lot closer to home, no phone # in ad, same size, same price, $1350.
A 48" Maschio, no clutch, even rougher than the Agric, everything under the body is rusty, comes with 11 extra tines, $800.
An older(?) Agric with blue paint which is flaking off suggesting to me it's an older model. No visible rust. Does have a clutch. 110 miles from home, no phone #. $600.

Anything I should watch out for with these?

Thanks for your help.

 

[bilrus61]

I don't think Kuhn ever made a reverse tine tiller. I have a Kuhn 62 210 and its a fantastic tiller. The lower number tiller are I think made in Brazil but are still VERY good tillers. I would have the guy with the kuhn send you some pics then post the pics here on tractor by net. I really don't think you can go wrong with a Kuhn tiller.

 

[Rustyiron]

I had a Landpride. It worked well but there's really not much to a tiller's function. Much more to it's construction (durability) and cost/availbility of replacement tines. One big thing to think about is how slow can you gear down your tractor at pto speed. I had not thought about this but lucky for me I had a creep gear. Google a pto shaft slip clutch, very simple add on (usually in like with no mods to length). I can't judge the prices, but check the used one's for a leaky drive chain case and oil level. They usually drag in the dirt and can wear thin or even through and leak out the chain oil.

 

[Western]

What Rusty said. look for leaky seals, especially for the tiller bar drive gears. I would also look at the blades to see if you can tell how rough it was used. Might check the shaft for wire that may have wrapped around near the bearings and make sure the metal isn't worn from from it.

I think most used tillers will be in fair shape, they aren't used allot unless in a heavy AG use or maybe a lawn company. I use mine maybe 3 times a year and that's it.

 

[MacLawn]

I was able to find a good used Bush Hog tiller few years ago at my dealer. It has slip clutch. From what I know - ye WANT a slip clutch or shear pin - something to keep it from busting up ye transmission, or what ever the PTO thingamajig connects to. On my JD 2210, that'll set ye back about $2,000 I hear if ye slip clutch doesn't slip when it's supposed to. Something's gotta give.

Good hunting.

 

[randy41]

i till a lot. you want a slip clutch for sure. if you are using it a lot you should check out the cost of replacement tines. If its gear driven check the wear on the drive gear. if its chain driven check that out also. look for gear oil leaks and be sure that they can be fixed just by tightening up some screws and stuff. you need to be able to get the tiller off the ground to turn it and see that it works properly.

 

[Gary Fowler]

With rocks and possibly big underground roots, you need to stay away from reverse rotation tillers. Forward rotation will just hop over rocks and roots without damage but I think you may be looking at broken tines if you hit a 16" rock with reverse rotation tiller. A slip clutch wont protect you from that.
Personally I wouldn't pay $1350 for a used tiller when I can buy new for that price. I recently purchased a King Kutter II in 72" wide model for $1500 and the 54" models were about $200 less.
I looked for gear drive vs chain drive just because I think there is less chance of a gear breaking vs a chain AND you don't have to adjust the tension on a gear. I don't personally have any info to support that gear is better but that is my thought.
I wouldn't buy any tiller without a slip clutch either.

FYI: the new KK II tillers painted yellow come with a new type of slip clutch that doesn't have the external springs like most slip clutches and no clutch discs are exposed. It is a slip clutch never the less. Other manufacturers may have the same thing. The slip clutch looks just like a spring type with double plates bolted together, just doesn't have the adjustable tension springs on the bolts.

 

[EddieWalker]

With rocks and possibly big underground roots, you need to stay away from reverse rotation tillers. Forward rotation will just hop over rocks and roots without damage but I think you may be looking at broken tines if you hit a 16" rock with reverse rotation tiller. A slip clutch wont protect you from that.
Personally I wouldn't pay $1350 for a used tiller when I can buy new for that price. I recently purchased a King Kutter II in 72" wide model for $1500 and the 54" models were about $200 less.
I looked for gear drive vs chain drive just because I think there is less chance of a gear breaking vs a chain AND you don't have to adjust the tension on a gear. I don't personally have any info to support that gear is better but that is my thought.
I wouldn't buy any tiller without a slip clutch either.

FYI: the new KK II tillers painted yellow come with a new type of slip clutch that doesn't have the external springs like most slip clutches and no clutch discs are exposed. It is a slip clutch never the less. Other manufacturers may have the same thing. The slip clutch looks just like a spring type with double plates bolted together, just doesn't have the adjustable tension springs on the bolts.

Gary, that sounds like the tiller I've been eyeing at Atwoods. Same price too. Where did you buy yours and would you buy it again? Where do you get replacement tines? How much HP do you have and what is your soil like? I think once I do it once, the next time should be easier.

Eddie

 

[newbury]

Soil is clay loam, some of the area to be tilled had stumps removed last summer and may have broken off roots at tilling depth. And there are some scattered surprise rocks, usually 8-16" in diameter. Hopefully I have turned them all up with my cultivator, but you never know.

Do I need a slip clutch?

Good idea

What does it cost to add a slip clutch to a tiller without one? I was quoted about $500, which seems pretty high.

$500 seems about right, FOR TWO PTO SHAFTS WITH SLIP CLUTCHES King Kutter 22" PTO Shaft With Slip Clutch 147122 - Color May Vary by King Kutter - Parts for $243.97 : Rural King

Is a shear pin easy to change?

Not as easy as a properly adjusted clutch.

How can I check out a tiller before handing over my cash, assuming the seller no longer has a tractor or a place where I can try it out?

All you can do is see if it will turn by hand. You need to learn to figure out how to trust a seller.

I looked for mine for about 4 years. Virtually all were 3/4 the price of new, seriously banged up and rusted out. "Rust" meant holes visible thru the main body, "slight rust seemed" to mean you could poke your finger thru the main body with a little pressure.

Finally found my 60" KK II for $800 close by (remember, every extra mile you have to drive a truck takes your time and probably costs $1, so driving 200 miles represents $200).


Good luck.

 

[Stimw]

I bought this 4'er 3-4 years ago for $500. I put a coat of paint on it.
The other pic is how the soil looks after tilling! It looks like saw dust it comes out so fine!
All I can say is knowing what I know now I would pay the price for a new one if I could not find a good used one!!!
They do that good of a job.
I even till gardens for friends, it's quick and we share the produce anyway.