Educate Me on Older Kubota

   / Educate Me on Older Kubota #21  
Gardener - on your original question, I think 30hp may be too small. My L345 was able to handle a 6' rotary cutter. It would also run a 7' rotary in light grass, but if it was dense or wet it was short on power. When I got a Woods RM990 rear finish mower (1200 lb), the L345 handled its weight ok but was well beyond its limit for power. Finish mowers soak up more power than a slower-turning rotary. A rough guide is about 6 horsepower per foot of width for rotary cutters - but 7 hp per foot is a nearer match for finish mowers. If you cut your fields often, then much less power is needed. But if they get tall like this year, power is the answer. I'd suggest an L or M Kubota model with a 4 next.
 
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   / Educate Me on Older Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#22  
A mower will extend much farther than 24”.

I completely forgot to consider the increased depth of these decks. Thank You! That is the issue. It does raise some questions regarding the Kubota rear finish mower vs the Woods rear finish mower [quality, endurance, etc.].

Kubota 60" RFM deck = 550 lbs
Woods 60" RFM deck = 653 lbs

Kubota 72" RFM deck = 585 lbs
Woods 72" RFM deck = 719 lbs


If weight is any sort of indicator, the Woods mower decks appear to be far stronger than the Kubota decks. The B3030 allows for a 72" Kubota deck whereas we are now concluding that the B3030 cannot even accomodate a 60" Woods deck.

Can a B3030 owner who is using a rear finish mower please tell me what deck size and brand you are using.

Thanks,
The Gardener

----------

Weight Comparisons:

PRD6000, PRD7200, and PRD8400 Rear Discharge Mowers

Kubota Tractor Corporation - B Series - B2630/B3030 Compact Tractors Attachments
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I'd suggest an L or M Kubota model with a 4 next.

Either of those models would be fantastic, but I don't think we can afford that type of tractor once we commit to a B26 next spring - and those tractors are larger than we would prefer.

I can't go larger than the B26 TLB due to tighter spaces in and around the gardens and the buildings that we want to access with the tractor. I was hoping to solve the lawn mowing needs with something in the size range of a B3030 so it could also be used in tandem with the B26 while tackling projects in those same tighter locations.

I now see that horsepower and deck weight will limit the deck width of a RFM. I really want to mulch the field grass since I don't want to leave rows of dead grass which are unsightly. I know the Woods RFM decks offer a mulching kit. I'll need to contact Kubota to see if there RFM decks also offer a mulching option.

I know the B3030 offers a MMM solution, but I would need to be convinced [shown by a dealer] that the removal of the MMM is easy and very straight forward. After 2+ hours of mowing, I have little patience to struggle with that type of chore ;-)

Ground clearance is also an issue when we are tackling rock wall repairs and rock transporting. We have to enter into the woods in many locations to access the rocks. That would necessitate the removal of the MMM after each mowing effort. Plus, I really like to clean the deck after each cut. The RFM offers easy removal and easy access for cleaning. That's what I like about the RFM. If I find that the MMM is almost as easy, I'd have no hesitation going in that direction.
 
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   / Educate Me on Older Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Tom_H had some good posts in this other thread, on these subjects (I also agree with him)

I just read through his posts and all the posts. He sounds extremely sensible, very competent, and certainly experienced with tractors and PTO implements. He is recommending a Woods RFM that is huge.

"If I were in your situation, and the rough cut area were hay only, and money were no object, I'd lean towards a B3030 and a Woods RM-990."

His recommendation completely contradicts the many comments in this thread. The Woods RM-990 weighs 1213 lbs. Who is right?

I was asking about the PRD8400 which only weighs 830 lbs. and I thought it was concluded [via this thread] that the B3030 could not handle that deck.

:confused:

The Gardener
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota #26  
The Gardener said:
Tom_H had some good posts in this other thread, on these subjects (I also agree with him)

I just read through his posts and all the posts. He sounds extremely sensible, very competent, and certainly experienced with tractors and PTO implements. He is recommending a Woods RFM that is huge.

"If I were in your situation, and the rough cut area were hay only, and money were no object, I'd lean towards a B3030 and a Woods RM-990."

His recommendation completely contradicts the many comments in this thread. The Woods RM-990 weighs 1213 lbs. Who is right?
Cripes! :eek: Well, I should've clarified that I agree with his logic and explanations only, I can offer no input on specific model recommendations. The RM990 actually weighs "only" 930#, but still... maybe he was looking at the brochure upside down and meant the RM660?! :D
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#27  
As a B3030 owner w/ a 60" MMM, can you please share your experience with removing the MMM from underneath the tractor. I still like the MMM as the ideal mower for controlling the cut, but it would need to be an easy unhook & roll out affair to go that route. I would definitely be taking it off after each cut to use the tractor for rock work and other types of jobs requiring higher ground clearance than the MMM offers.

Thanks,
The Gardener
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota #28  
Like the man above said, it's a simple matter of leverage. There is no corelation of the maximum amount that a PTO can lift and the maximum amount of weight that a tractor can be driven with lifted at the rear.

There will have to be a balancing amount at the opposite end of the tractor/lever.

Something to consider is the fact that a front loader includes, in most cases, some quite heavy bracketry that attaches permanently to the tractor if so equipped. This can lessen the need for additional weights placed on the front 'bumper'. So too do some backhoe systems include permanently attached bracketry adding to the overall weight of the base tractor, and since it rides ahead of the PTO mostly that weight serves to counterbalance the weight of rear attachments.

And don't forget to account for the weight of the tractor operator-can't let that slip through the cracks...:rolleyes:
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota #29  
Just a small note here that the B-26 basically uses the 3030 chassis.
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota #30  
I recommend you check out the manuals for both the tractor you want and the mower. Woods manuals can be freely downloaded from their site, but you will need to see if your Kubota dealer has one for the tractor.

The Kubota web site shows that a 60-inch rear finishing mower can be used on the B-2630, B-3030, L-2800 and L-3400, but it takes an L-4400 to run an 84-incher, using Kubota's mowers which are lighter than the premium Woods units you are looking at.

The Woods manual for the PRD series mowers states that at least 25% of the tractor's weight including attached equipment must be on the front wheels when the mower is lifted, and that the unit must be weighed to assure that. This will probably require some sort of front weight, which could be a loader - but the only way you will know for certain is to do what Woods says - weigh it.

Good luck in your search.
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#31  
I think weighing it is the safest approach.

Thanks!
The Gardener
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota #32  
Got a landfill nearby? Free scale. Trailer it across their scale then weigh empty trailer. You'll get alot of curious looks too :)
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#33  
I am curious.

I have been comparing the specs between the B26 backhoe, the Kubota KX71-3, and the BH80-X 4pt backhoe. Having not used any of the three units, I am unsure if the specs and actual on-site use are accurately reflected by the specs.

Are the backhoes close in ability or is the KX71-3 in a different league altogether as far as lifting and digging?

Thanks!
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota #34  
Your earlier posts sounded like the B26 was a pretty firm decision - but now that the door may be open a crack to something else, I'll make the comment I was thinking about earlier. When you mentioned not wanting to take off the backhoe, and having limited spaces between buildings, I was thinking a small excavator would way out-perform the B26, especially if you are planning on a second tractor for field maintenance, wood lot and stone work. The huge advantages of an excavator are much more reach, great maneuverability, and the ability to swing anywhere with the spoils. A TLB is limited in some ways but if you have just one machine having a backhoe attachment is a lot better than digging with a shovel. Another idea that came to mind is maybe something like an L39 would do everything for a smaller total investment? There could be some great deals out there next spring as people get trading fever.
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota #35  
The Gardener said:
Are the backhoes close in ability or is the KX71-3 in a different league altogether as far as lifting and digging?
Yeah, not alot of comparison here... the stuff RB said, plus having multiple variable displacement pumps means more responsive controls and the ability to do simultaneous ops that you can't do with a hoe on a single-pump open-center loop. If you strictly want a digging machine you can't beat a mini-X. You'll lose some versatility (e.g., FEL) and you'd better have a fat piggy bank. Something like this I'd look for used.
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Your earlier posts sounded like the B26 was a pretty firm decision - but now that the door may be open a crack to something else, I'll make the comment I was thinking about earlier.

The one advantage of having started my search and brain teasing exploration so early is the opportunity to consider lots of different options. I'd rather have the funds to buy now, and begin using the machine. But, since that is not an option, I figure that I should continue to tap the wealth of knowledge and experience that exists on TBN to hopefully make a highly informed decision.

I agree with you completely that a mini excavator is unparalleled in the area of digging. I especially like their manueverability vs the need to rely on stabilizers and a seat change.

My problem is that I see the absolute need for a tractor with a FEL to support a mini excavator. Shuttling rocks and trees over longer distances would fall to the tractor. I cannot buy both at once, and digging is our number one priority: rock work, garden expansion, creating a small pond, some fencing, dredging an overgrown creek, etc. are all on the 'to do list'.

My one thought to allow for a used mini excavator as our first purchase is to buy an open trailer as the support unit. I could use the trailer as the substitute to a FEL to move items to and from and figure out some means of pulling a trailer with the mini excavator. That would buy me the necessary time to pay down the cost of the mini excavator before pursuing a used tractor.

I like the digging numbers of the KX71-3, and its weight. Assuming that I have read everything correctly, the break out force lines up in this order:

KX91-3 ............. 8059 lbs
KX71-3 ............. 6350 lbs
L39 .................. 5825 lbs
B26 .................. 4210 lbs

Dreaming sure brings a smile ...
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota #37  
The Gardener said:
.......Shuttling rocks and trees over longer distances would fall to the tractor. I cannot buy both at once, and digging is our number one priority: rock work, garden expansion, creating a small pond, some fencing, dredging an overgrown creek, etc. are all on the 'to do list'.....

If you really want an opinion from someone who has been there and done that, based on your to-do list I'd go spend $20k on a Used Case 580 4wd and use it for a couple years doing all your major site remodeling, then sell it for the same $20k and get a property maintenance tractor in the 40 hp range. Hire somebody to cut your open land a couple times this year and next.

P.S. On the subject of weighing tractors for compliance with the little book, If you do that I'll bet some day you'll look back and be amused. Take care, Dick B
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Used Case 580 4wd[/URL] and use it for a couple years doing all your major site remodeling, then sell it for the same $20k

We have actually looked at similar Case and equivalent options. It did enter our "what about this" approach. Our neighbor has a yellow bomb that looks a lot like the Case pictured. His is another brand, but it is similar in size and beef. The problem is that he's mechanically inclined, and I am not. His TLB is always needing some type of fix.


I'll bet some day you'll look back and be amused.

If I ever reach that point, I'll have all of you to thank. It will signify that I have actually gained some knowledge and operator experience through the help of many TBN contributors.
 
   / Educate Me on Older Kubota #39  
Look at a gear drive L3400 or L4400. Lots of tractor. Low price.
 

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