el-cheapo- tig / arc welder at HF

   / el-cheapo- tig / arc welder at HF #21  
I sold it exactly for how much I bought it for.
I have all the tig machines I need and there
was a guy on the web I like, so I turned him
on to the deal. He was looking at cheap stuff
to learn on and I could not stand to see him lower
his standard to a machine that pretty much sucks.
He also was looking for old big ones but nothing was
showing up. (good but killer shipping)

I go out of my way to get people to buy decent stuff.
I should buy one of those machines just to run over
it with a very large tractor!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

This little Thermal-arc 160 amp dc only 120/230 volt cost more for the box only then a Thermal-arc 185 ac/dc with everthing to weld, more then the Esab 161 too. I like quality over price when it comes to welding machines. Idid get a deal though! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

Attachments

  • 684230-PICT0005.jpg
    684230-PICT0005.jpg
    91.3 KB · Views: 421
   / el-cheapo- tig / arc welder at HF #22  
Just wanted to tell you guys about my first welder.This is a REALLY cheap $40 100 amp arc welder I bought at Homier .Had some work that I really wanted to do on the tractor and could'nt find a welder for the life of me anywhere.Homier's WHQ is just a few miles down the road...and heck..it's only $40..I didn't expect much...but it welds!! It'll shut down after about 3/4 of a 1/8" rod at full power,but for little stuff,emergency repairs or taking it to somewhere without 50 amp power ( it only needs 25 amps) I consider it a keeper.
It sits on the shelf these days,since I now have my own Lincoln.Remote work is done with a little gas DC machine...but if someone needs to borrow a small welder dor something...I have one.
 
   / el-cheapo- tig / arc welder at HF
  • Thread Starter
#23  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Seriously. For instance, if you want to try TIG welding and you only have $300 to spend ($200 for the machine and $100 for a cheap reg and small argon cylinder), then you either buy a cheap machine like this and give it a try, or you never try TIG welding in the first place. )</font>

I used that reasoning on arc welding. I got a cheapy 89$ wallmart / Campbel hausfield arc welder. Loved it.. am good at it too.

I need a bigger one to do real work.. say something 180 amps or up. i think I'll look for a cheapy old tombstone at a garage sale. I don't need DCEP or EN.. 200+a of blistering AC weld is fine for a farmer.

I'll keep the little 70a welder.. .. it's great for sheet metal.

Soundguy
 
   / el-cheapo- tig / arc welder at HF
  • Thread Starter
#24  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have two of these too! I beat the heck out of them and they just won't die? They even send you replaceable brushes for the motors with it; who does that? For $9 each I've certainly gotten my money out of them. )</font>

Ditto. I've got the brushes in a pill jar up on the bench.. trying to figure out a project to use them on.. as when/if the brushes in the grinder goes.. I'll just drop 9$ and get a new one!

Soundguy
 
   / el-cheapo- tig / arc welder at HF #25  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Pretty beads do not always equal good welds.
)</font>

I know.

I've also seen $5,000 welding machines produce some pretty worthless welds. Having worked in the welding industry for 35 years, I guess I've just about seen it all. I still don't believe half of it. I've battled over so many welds that for years I had an aversion to all welders and welding machines.

Personally, I prefer those welding machines with a brain attached to the rod. They are *always* the best.

What bothers me most of all is that people think the more money you spend, the better your welds will be, and the happier your life will be. As you know, that is total sheep dip.

The world is happiest when the welding machine is the most closely matched to the jobs it will be called upon to do over its lifetime. That can be a $1 million robotic welder, or a $100 cracker box. It does not make sense to spend $1500 for a welding machine and use it 3-4 times a year for repairs. It also doesn't make sense to buy a $100 cracker box and embark on an endless succession of $1000 fab projects. You gotta use you coconut and do what makes sense for youself. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

If you ask Hobart (or Miller, or Lincoln) fanboys, they will say there is no earthly use for cracker box welders. This is normal because they have thousands invested in their HD welding equipment. You have to ask someone who has no emotonal attachment to welding.

What make sense for me? Coffee. Good, hot coffee. Ummmm...
 
   / el-cheapo- tig / arc welder at HF
  • Thread Starter
#26  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The key to buying cheap tools made in China and sold by US companies is to buy the heavier duty stuff...it's about the same ruggedness as the medium-duy name brands, but half the price or less. Sometimes it's just hit or miss (and sometimes even with the same tool...can you say "quality control"?), )</font>

As the other poster said.. i use gloves when using my old beater grinder.. after about 10 minutes of grinding.. it gets warm.

I also agree with you on tools. When i did my tractors tie rods.. i went to napa.. a pickle fork cost 19.99$.. HF had it for 4.99 go figure.. the HF one did the tie rods on 3 of my ford tractors so far.. still working. i found it also makes a good hammer and prybar..

Soundguy
 
   / el-cheapo- tig / arc welder at HF #27  
Howdy...

The key to purchasing an electric welder of any kind is to ensure the unit you purchase, has a high duty cycle for the material you want to weld together.

If the vast majority of the work you do is 1/4" plate or thinner, a welder that has a 60% duty cycle at 3/8" might be okay for you, as at 1/4" the duty cycle might be 90%. When you start welding, you're going to be starting and stopping constantly anyway, learning the technique applicable to that unit as well as the settings and what they actually do. So a duty cycle is okay.

Once you become proficient in electric welding, and you're projects get larger (as they always do /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif) you will want a higher duty cycle, because you have the confidence and the ability, to weld long beads as dictated by projects.

While most materials are joined together in small beads, as often times there is no need to weld a 6' long bead... but there are cases that do require such - enclosures that have to contain liquids for example. Homemade snow plows, and thick-material body work like bumpers and such. Those you could seam the pieces together in one shot because they are thick enough not to warp. Stitch the smaller stuff.

As far as what kind of welder to buy... there is no doubt in my mind that Tig welding produces the prettiest weld. A practiced Tig welder can make beautiful swirlies all day. Also, Tig is excellent for non-ferrous materials like Aluminum and Brass, because the heat is so localized, the material you're welding will not warp as easily as some of the other electrical welding methods.

Arc welding in my opinion is good for heavy duty, large sized stuff. If I had to weld a tooth onto a bucket loader, Arc welding would be my first choice. The penetration and weld puddles can be very large, making for a nice weld the first time around. Arc welding also is environment resistant - meaning you can get nice welds in the rain, scorching sun, even if the part has some rust on it. It's so hot that stuff burns off. This is why I think tradesmen often prefer and learn Arc welding - it's a great process for people in the field. And it's simple too... a big transformer and a welding rod.

For the hobbiest however, I'd lean towards wire-fed mig welding, with gasless and gas capability. I find flux-core welding wire good enough for more applications, even with the smoke and splatter. I have a small battery operated fan I put near my work, drawing the smoke away allowing me to see the weld puddle better. For stronger, and cleaner looking welds, using gas (CO + Argon typically) helps you achieve this. Mig is less forgiving about cleanliness as Arc welding, but the heat is more localized so your weld puddle is smaller and more precise. Nothing like Tig, just comparing it to Arc.

And wire fed mig welders with the gas capability are cool because you can buy the unit now, knowing that someday you might want to use bottle gas and all you have to do is buy the gas kit and attach it to the back of the unit. So you can purchase a larger, better unit up front without the gas attachments, then as you need it down the road, spring for that.

While I can't do it, a friend of mine who I'd consider an artist as far as welding talent goes (he owns a large auto body shop and started working there as a kid when his father owned it) can actually weld aluminum with my wire-fed mig welder. The gas is different, the welding wire obviously is different, but his welding ability made aluminum mig welding look *almost* like tig welding. Almost /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

But regardless what welding unit and method you choose, practice practice practice. That's the key to good welding. Find things to weld!
 
   / el-cheapo- tig / arc welder at HF
  • Thread Starter
#28  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( can actually weld aluminum with my wire-fed mig welder. )</font>

I've been wanting to expirement with that on my arc welder. i know a store that sells 1/16 and 5/64 fluxed aluminum electrodes.

I've gotten pretty good with 1/16 rod on a 30a setting, welding sheet metal that is thin enough to bend by hand with virtually -0- burnthru's ( that took looong practice. ) I wouldn't mind being able to glue say.. 3/16 plate aluminum together.. That is one thing I like about arc... I can grab a different electrode for every bead I make..

Soundguy
 
   / el-cheapo- tig / arc welder at HF #29  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Howdy...

Also, Tig is excellent for non-ferrous materials like Aluminum and Brass...

Arc welding also is environment resistant - meaning you can get nice welds in the rain...)</font>

Great post...I agree with everything you said, except two notes. I've never tried it, but I don't believe you can weld brass with TIG (or any welding process)...brass is a bronze and zinc alloy, and the zinc burns off. You can, however, solder brass and I believe you can also braze it with bronze filler rod.

I wouldn't do any welding in the rain (unless it was some sort of dire emergency)...that is a great way to end up flopping around like a fish! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Dave
 
   / el-cheapo- tig / arc welder at HF #30  
</font><font color="blueclass=small">(
I've been wanting to expirement with that on my arc welder. i know a store that sells 1/16 and 5/64 fluxed aluminum electrodes.

I've gotten pretty good with 1/16 rod on a 30a setting, welding sheet metal that is thin enough to bend by hand with virtually -0- burnthru's ( that took looong practice. ) I wouldn't mind being able to glue say.. 3/16 plate aluminum together.. That is one thing I like about arc... I can grab a different electrode for every bead I make..

Soundguy )</font>

Hmmm...I've heard this is possible, but I've never tried it. Aluminum is pretty difficult even with TIG or MIG. There's a short temperature span over which AL is in the liquid phase...not enough heat and it won't melt, just a little too much and it vaporizes. Aluminum sinks the heat really fast, so it's pretty difficult to get the heat right, and it takes quite a bit of it. This would probably end up being an ugly weld (pitted black with aluminum oxide), but give it a try and let us know how it goes!

Make sure you choose the right aluminum alloys to attempt to weld. Not all aluminum alloys are weldable, many crack while cooling...IIRC 40xx is about the easiest to weld, and I believe 60xx comes in second (and there's quite a difference between the two...I've done TIG with both...40xx came out looking good, but I made a mess of the 60xx!). Most of the other AL alloys are not weldable.

Dave
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

BUYERS PREMIUM & PAYMENT TERMS (A52577)
BUYERS PREMIUM &...
Case 821F Articulated Wheel Loader (A51691)
Case 821F...
2000 INTERNATIONAL 9200 (A52472)
2000 INTERNATIONAL...
ECONOLINE TRAILER, INC (A50323)
ECONOLINE TRAILER...
2012 UNVERFERTH 10-INCH FRONT WHEEL SPACER FOR 10 BOLT HUB (A52748)
2012 UNVERFERTH...
2021 FORD F-150 XL EXT CAB TRUCK (A51406)
2021 FORD F-150 XL...
 
Top